TD5 power

hi i would have thought having a look inside the handbrake drum just in case something has come adrift, at least its cheap to fix before major surgery is considered. Gives you a good chance to look at the props and output bearings as well whilst you're there. Matt

hi i've slightly mislead you the above diagram is for a mechanical engine like a 300tdi how ever the TD5 is electronic and works slightly different. The pressure in the manifold is controlled electronically there is a sensor which measures the manifold pressure and sends a signal to the ECU and depending on readings from other sensors will chose what boost pressure it requires. The ECU then sends a signal to the wastegate control, you will find this by tracing the pipe from the modulator. When the wastegate control receives an electric signal it actually applies a vacuum to the wastegate (not pressure) so the spring is on the other side of the rubber diaphragm. This as before moves the threaded rod operating the wastegate. From the code you have got it is telling you one of the wires to the wastegate control has short circuited to earth meaning there is two choices, the wire has rubbed through and is earthed out or the wastegate control itself has broken down internally. I would start by checking the wires as far as possible for damage, however i guess the unit itself may have failed i though it was going to be very expensive but have a look here i was surprised In my opinion there is no way the modulator on the turbo can fail and generate that code you have, the "current" part means the ECU can see the fault at the moment. HTH sorry for the slightly incorrect bits earlier Matt

hi here is the one for a 2002 onwards TD5 borrowed from the rave manuals;) heated front screen diagram hth Matt

hi the modulator is the bit on the other end and basically moves the wastegate to regulate the pressure in the intake manifold. This is achieved by allowing the exhaust gases to bypass the exhaust turbine part of the turbo, i hope the rather cobbled together diagram below makes some sense, here is a brief description. As the pressure in the intake manifold increases this pushes the diaphragm against the spring pressure therefore moving the threaded rod, which in turn rotates the wastegate diverting the path of the exhaust gas. Matt

hi for this method you will need an assistant, a piece of tube that fits on the bleed nipple and a glass jar containing about an inch of clean clutch fluid make sure the reservoir is full laying under the truck push one end of the pipe on the bleed nipple and the other in the jar of fluid with 11mm (i think) spanner loosen the bleed nipple, doesn't need a lot about 1/2 turn get assistant to push the clutch and hold it down, you will see some air come out the pipe into the jar tighten the bleed nipple then get assistant to release the clutch repeat 4 and 5 until you cant see any air coming out the pipe, this is why i use the jar of fluid as it is easier to see the air bubbles important - your assistant will need to top up the fluid in the reservoir after every two cycles otherwise you got to start again as more air is drawn in HTH matt

hi have a look at the picture below you need to remove the clip to disconnect the threaded rod With a pair of pliers try to turn the little leaver labeled wastegate whilst spraying penetrating oil where it enters the housing, it should be free to move when you've finished. Matt edited to fix the picture

hi i haven't heard of flexi pipe going porous but it's possible, could one of the fittings that are crimped to the pipe have come loose allowing it to leak slightly? Have you looked up above the drivers foot well to see if the master cylinder is leaking? I think it would take a while for you to see clutch fluid dripping from the bell housing as the shape of the housing would collect it, though it would probably leak out whilst driving round corners etc. HTH matt

also to add to the above, the new master cylinder will kill the old slave fairly quickly. For a few extra pounds i would replace the master and slave cylinders with good quality girling parts and whilst your there changing the flexi hose as well because these can perish and cause problems. matt

hi i have just bought all the paint to do my 90 from bill, great service and a good price too matt

hi is part no 5 in the diagram the bit your after? the later part is replaced by BTR9715LOY and is available from LRseries.com HTH matt edited i cant get the image to work so try copy and pasting this link, http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu239/TD5power/LRreardoorwiring.jpg

hi Red 90 i will look into getting the drums machined, all the parts advertised at that price are britpart and i don't trust them for safety related parts. LR series say britpart/bearmach so you don't know whats going to turn up, bearmach would be fine. as for the diff it cost a fair bit of money to get it rebuilt and i cant afford to just chuck that away, does anyone know if it would fit the front axle i am pretty sure they can be interchanged just need to check? thanks matt

hi I am in the process of rebuilding my 90 onto a galvanised chassis and i have got to the stage of ordering the bits for the brakes. My first question, has anyone used the stainless steel pistons from paddocks? Secondly having striped the rear brakes down, both drums have some scoring and ideally should be replaced. What supplier do you recommend, genuine seem to be very expensive £60 per drum? The other option would be to swap to a disco rear axle but in my old axle i have a 6 month old ashcroft 10 spline diff that i would like to retain. so over to you guys cheers matt

thanks for the replies i was planning to use etch primmer just wanted to make sure it didn't start peeling off again in a year many thanks matt

hi I have also got a galvanised chassis for my 90, and like the op im looking for ways to increase its life span. I have been told that paint doesn't like sticking to newly galvanised metal so in my research i cam across a product called T Wash which is meant to prepare the surface for improved paint adhesion, has anyone heard of it or better still tried it? many thanks matthew

hi On a catergory B license you can tow a trailer as long as the maximum admissible mass(MAM)of the trailer doesn't exceed the unladen weight of the towing vehicle and the MAM of the vehicle and the trailer doesn't exceed 3500kg. For example a hard top 90 can tow a trailer up to 1100kg, the MAM is 2400kg so 3500 - 2400 = 1100kg and the unladen weight is 1750kg meaning it is legal. But do check your insurance will cover this. HTH matthew

hi according to Microcat you will need ANR1808(200tdi) for the engine mountings and ANR3200(r380) for the transmission mounts. The transmission will depend how the conversion was done, i would have a quick look under there if the mounts are round then you need ANR1808 if they are square then ANR3200 is what you're after. HTH matt

hi With a lack of oil its most likely the crank will have siezed into the bearings and possibly spun them round (very bad block becomes scrap.) I would drop the sump and ladder frame off, remove all main and big end bearing caps or just bolts if the caps wont move. Try and remove the crank you may need a big hammer and a bit of wood, carefully inspect the crank and block for damage. if it is ok then try to remove the pistons one or more will be stuck depending how well siezed they are i would start with the biggest bit of wood that will fit and try to beat the pistons up the bore. if no luck stand the block on some wood and try the same going down the bore when they move clean the bore with emory cloth then turn the block on its side and knock them out the top, im not sure if land rover pistons fit out the bottom of the block. The camshaft and rocker shaft will have also suffered and need to be removed and checked for damage. HTH matt

hi yes you definitely need crush tubes in there, have a look at les's write up here HTH matt

hi my new Lucas TRW slave cylinder failed after only 6 months and about 6000 miles, the piston was sticking in the bore in effect ridding the clutch which burnt the plate out in a 100 miles,the way you describe it sounds exactly the same. HTH matt

hi if in one cycle of coolant through the engine you are adding 10c plus to the coolant temp that's a lot, either your working flat out going slow or there may be some other problem. The water cooling system is aided by the lubrication system which disipates a large amount of heat especially with the TD engine as they all have oil coolers. although land rover didn't really get the engine design right they compensated for that by over specifying the cooling package its not a high performance petrol engine producing loads of heat running at high rpms. matt

hi just a quick thought shouldn't the fan switch be placed in the bottom hose to tell you when the radiator can no longer sufficiently disperse the heat and needs the aid of the fans. As for temperature i would think the first fan needs to come in by 95c and the second by 100c, also a lot of these switches i think disengage at a lower temperature ie 90c to prevent them flicking on and off this might need to be considered when choosing a switch. i would suggest looking at X eng as their fan switch is proven to work well with land rovers. HTH matt

hi I would advise against the britpart pump my mate fitted one and it lasted all of 1 month before leaking again, try and get a bearmach one as their parts have a much better reputation than britpart. matt

hi if its the short metal pipe your after the number is NTC9595 hth matt

hi if its between 9 and 10mm its probably 3/8 imperial. matt

i really should pay more attention before i type matt