Night Train

That seems like a good idea. It would give a real indication of the 'strength' of the motor and also the overall efficiency of the winch.

If you have one on a winch could you load it up it and measure the voltage and current at ever decreasing rpm until it stalls and then plot that to find out, somehow?

I will be considering that route. Once I sort out a BOC account for the gas I will have a look at sets available. Often it comes down to money available at the time. I looked a that option and thought about the cost of the welder, then the torch, then the gas, then the compressor so I can have a plasma cutter as well. Sometimes step by step over time takes priority over saving and waiting. I also wasn't keen on getting one of those really cheap sets from Ebay if it was going to be a waste of money. At least this MIG works really well for less then the cost of a 'toy' one from Machine Mart.

Well, I failed miserably trying to win the TIG welder set up. TBH I didn't bid too high as it was untestable, no gas and sold by someone who didn't know what to do with it. However, I now have a MIG set. It is a Cebora Boxer 155 Twin It came from a factory closure and so still has most of a bottle of gas, gauges and about 4kg of wire left on the 5kg reel. Just tested it and it works really well. The TIG set will have to wait for another day.

If I was stuck for lifting eyes I would pass rope through the exhaust manifolds and around the engine mounts or under the sump. The lowest point of the rope would be tied together so it doesn't slip off either end of the sump. I wouldn't lift on the inlet manifold myself just for the agrevation of possibly causing it to move, bend or leak.

I voted yes too. A bit of a daft question really, a bit like asking if sports bikes should be allowed on fast country lanes.

I found that. Even with a 5kva generator the delay in getting up to speed, and power, would make starting the weld a little fiddly. Lots of popping and spatter and wire feed problems until the generator was up to speed.

Why bother with toy motors when you could use a motor, or two, from a golf cart or mobility scooter? You can even get a decent controller from one and use the RC stuff to work the throttle pot. How about this one with a shaft to each axle? Or you could use a winch motor.

That's what I have done. The 4 way has a switch on its own plug that I use in the existing socket so I can switch off all the adaptors in one go when I leave the vehicle. All the wiring is then hidden and only the connection pops out the dash where the gadget is mounted.

That's good information, thank you. I think I can still TIG. I did a course in pressure pipe welding where I covered MMA, MIG, TIG and gas, oxy-hydrogen and oxy-acethelene. Did all the out of position stuff and then cut it all up for etching and examination. Bit like falling off a bike, you never forget, at least not the basics. I will start looking for a second hand quality TIG set though I suspect I will end up with a good MIG set due to cost. I used to have a good MIG set with a big Argosheild bottle when I was in London but it seems to have vanished.

I have been thinking of getting another welder, something with more finesse then my trusty stick welder for my latest project. I thought about gasless MIG at first but haven't heard much good about them here (though I may still get one for portability). Having searched on both MIG and TIG and found lots on the former but less on the latter I thought I would just ask. What would be involved in getting a good budget TIG set up relative to getting a good budget MIG set up and is it worth it if I am only welding steel tube and brackets? I am planning on welding thin wall tube for a light weight chassis and suspension components. I would consider being able to weld aluminium if the set up didn't cost loads more to accomodate it. Your experienced views will be much appreciated. Thank you.

Make sure that the tow ball on the vehicle, and on the static hitch, is not removable with a couple of spanners too.

I wonder if anyone has tried running their competition winches with a speed controller? A quick search brings up the Curtis 1205-3xx 12v 400A and the 1205-24-36v 400A. It would save all the problems with matching line speed and switch breaking high currents flows. Just connect the isolator with no load and then bring the speed up, then down and then open the isolator with no load. One controller could be contator switched to front or rear winch depedning on which is in use, or have two controllers. Not cheap but then neither are the winches or other spendy bits on competition vehicles.

Hmmmm, I shall have to check mine now as I tow quite frequently but only checked about 5 years ago that I would be covered. I could end up with two 'interesting' garden ornaments and no usable trailers.

Cheers Phil. 110mm = around 4 1/2" That's good enough to know that I would need to add a few more links in the chain. Means I would need to buy a chain and sprocket set and a chain to make it work. Thank you.

I wonder where a self build/home made/amateur build trailer would stand? For example a caravan suspension or some Indespension units with a frame, platform or box trailer built on to suit your own specific requirements but of no particular 'manufacturer's standard'.

I just need a small cheap drive train on a project and the centres need to be around 6" to 6.5" or a bit more for clearance. A timing chain and sprockets would cost less as a bodge then getting the right stuff, and work just as well. Not lost enough marbles to change the speed on a cam, well, not yet.

It doesn't look as easy to slip a disc cutter in to cut the gears apart and still leave enough surface to weld on without getting too close to the teeth. Also one of them has a diff bolted to it. The primary would be easy to use given the taper rollers though.

That would be good if you can, please. I am trying to work out the centres of the chain sprockets. It was only the question that was quick, I wasn't really expecting a quick answer so tomorrow will be fine. Thank you.

That's very similar to the one I have. It was a Black Hawk, or something like that? I got it 27 years ago and still going strong.

Thanks guys, the LT230 looks awkward to cut up. I think I can probably get the ratios from a series box doing a rough measure of the photos, S2 would be easiest, smaller intermediate shaft. I am also checking out V8 timing chain so have asked about the distance between centres of crank and cam shafts in International.

Just a quick one. What is the distance between the centres of the crankshaft and cam shaft of a Rover V8? Cheers, NT

Wasn't there a thread on this a while ago? Or maybe I imagined it. Anyway, I seem to recall that idea being to buy an old commercial dishwasher, as it is all stainless steel, and then running it from a barrel of cleaner that is filtered and recirculated through the dishwasher. Saves pouring nasty cleaning stuff down the drain or into the corner of the garden and also saves money by reusing the cleaning stuff until it is taken to the tip.

OK, I want/need to make a gear box to go on the end of a motor to overdrive the output by something between 0.7:1 to 0.6:1. What I have done in the past is to take some slightly worn out Series transfer box internals and cut them about and then use the gears on shafts, welded on if necessary. However, I can't remember what the tooth count is between the various cogs. Looking at the tech archive I have found that the LT230 has input gears with 26/41 teeth. That gives me 0.634:1 which is quite good and right where I am looking. Now, having only messed about wth Series transfer boxes I am not as familiar with the internals of the LT230 so I am less confident about getting the gears and then messing about with them. However, if someone has good photos that would help or better still if someone has an input gear and intermediate gear lying around, unloved and unwanted... So, what are the tooth counts in a Series transfer box, to refresh my memory and would any one have a set of gears from either box that I could cut up to get the ratio that I want in my gear box? Thank you.

Ditto about flap wheels. I use them at 80 grit for shaping metal, very effective. Have you thought about an inverter? I have one in my car for just these sorts of occasions where I have to work outdoors without a power supply. It was really useful when I was staying at the Centre for Alternative Technology in Wales. They had a power cut one evening and while everyone else was being all green and huddled around a candle I drove my car up to the digs, plugged in my music, my laptop and some lighting and carried on work. I even managed to brew up.