Night Train

I have a series 3 steering lock to go on the series three steering column on my electric tractor. The ignition barrel turns fine but when the key is removed the steering lock doesn't activate. A couple of taps, with a hammer, on the side of the lock will make the bolt and the barrel spring out and lock but it won't lock on its own when the key is withdrawn. How do I dismantle it to service it? The barrel and the cover plate are held in with steel pins. I tried drilling the pins but the ends of the pins have a raised point so I can't centre the drill on it. cheers.

I get mine from ToolStation for £1.58 each. It helps that they are only a mile away from me too.

I guess the other issue would be that insuarance would be invalid too if the driver was done for commercial towing if the insurance cover isn't for commercial or motor trade.

I'd stick with the 88" too (actually I would swap for a 109" but any Series Land Rover will have better character). Get a load of sound proofing and carpets, a comfortable seat from a nice car (I had MGB seats, could sit in them all day) and a better sound system. Then kick back and enjoy.

I switched from Petzl to a Lenser single LED. Damn it was bright! I was able to walk a few miles cross country in the pitch black of the Welsh countryside at midnight in winter, something I wouldn't normally want to do. It is light weight but still has a habit of slipping off my head when I am upside down. I have too much hair I think. I have found that batteries last and then suddenly get very dim very quickly when they are spent. When out and about I carry spare batteries as there is little indication of impending flat batteries. One thing I would like to change is to be able to use it as a stand alone. My old Petzl was able to clip together to make a stand lamp. The lenser, however I try to stand it up, always turns lens to the floor after a few seconds.

Mine arrived today.

I came across this on another forum I use and thought you may be interested in it. DIY Electric Car Range Rover thread.

I'm glad you kept it under control. A similar thing happened to a tyre on my ex wife's car. I had nothing to do with it, honest!

Doesn't anyone bother with this type anymore? Would be easy to make and remove and would store easily.

If you have access to a lathe then you can turn a die and anvil that can be pulled together with a bolt through the centre to make the swage. make sure the die and anvil have a flat unformed anulus around the edge to keep the material flat when the swage is made.

Even my garage who knows that I will have everything done that needs doing will ask first, even if they have ordered the parts in advance to save time. What if you had already booked it in somewhere else to have the exhaust done or had bought an expensive, SS large bore with twin stacks to fit yourself?

This springs to mind when ever I see any stretch limo.

That looks amazingly good fun. Is it scaleable? Printable furniture could put me out of work. A printable Land Rover would be interesting.

I think I am about ready to get brake pipes sorted out on this little project. The brakes look like this fitted. The tractor looks like this so far. The seat and batteries are for setting up so I can get he steering column and pedal positions right. David, I will get in touch about some flexible brake pipes. I will need flexibles, I now realise, as the calipers slide and I will need to allow for movement and disassembly to change pads. Land Rover content: Tyres 265 75 16 Steering box Master cylinders Brain cells

I would have thought that would be ok though I may be wrong. It is a bit like the pole trailers of old used in timber haulage. Some long loads are transported that way where the load forms part of the connection between the tractor and the trailer or the front and back bogies. I have plans for a small two wheel bogie on Indespension units that can be use for transporting long timber. Strap a tow hitch at one end of the timber, a trailer board at the other end and the bogie about 2/3 of the way along. Make sure nothing can escape by strapping it all together end to end with a 2" ratchet strap and I have a long pole trailer that fits in the boot of the car.

Excellent! I was planning on buying some in the next week or two.

If you use the thermos box then you could add a small heat source to it, say a light bulb inside, and a thermostat. The bulb doesn't need to be big as a 100w mains bulb can cook a chicken in a straw oven! Trial and error will probably get you a bulb size that doesn't run down your battery. The thermos box will keep the heat in and the thermostat will control the temperature. Adding more insulation to the box will make it even more effective and reduce the heatable volume to only what you need for your fluids. Make sure your thermostat is rated to work with 12v dc at the current required or use it to run a relay. Just noticed the pet bed heater reference. That would be a good one to use.

I always prefered diesels that sound like they should have 38 tons+ behind them then ones that sound like italian taxis queuing for a fare. Also 6 inline sounds better as a diesel then V8s like the GMCs. V8s should be petrol really. Now, I have a workshop manual for a Rolls Royce CV12 and there is a small add in a recent tractor magazine for the same engine.... That would make an interesting conversion!

I would suggest a good old one over a cheap new one for the same money. Weight is good (until you want to move it) as is a decent motor and drive system. Plenty to be had if you don't need screw cutting. Get the biggest that you can that suits the scale of work to avoid over working a machine that is too small. I changed my motor from a 350w to a 750w slower running one. Having a faceplate, self centring 3 jaw and independent 4 jaw chucks would be good. Best to get from someone who uses them and can show you that it all works properly before you hand over money. Also get the book and have a read first so that you know what you need and what you can dispense with for a bargain.

My solution to the 6 pot York starting was to install 6 long preheaters in the manifold pointing down each inlet towards the valve. Then I added a diesel powered 'flame thrower' in the throttle body. Preheat for 30 seconds and then ignite the flame thrower and then the start button. Worked even in snow! Never needed easy start and sounding like a tractor was the best bit! I like the sound of this

My 2001 Skoda Octavia allows fog lights on with the main beam as standard. I somtimes use them when on very dark country tracks at night when I want to see where the road goes and where the edges of the road has gone to. Really good for getting up narrow and winding tracks and driveways which is what I think the OP is interested in. Mains and fogs in fog only causes a white out.

Really nice job. You could have painted the diff while you were about it though!

I bought this on Ebay for £180 with cutters. 3 1/2" swing over the bed and 5" swing in the gap on a face plate. I was also recommended The Amateur's Lathe by L.H. Sparey as a good accompanying read on small lathe work. I am currently using to build something a little bigger then yours but also electrically driven.

I had the same in mine. Once I sorted the starting it was quite a good lump following a complete rebuild. I liked it. Timing belt was the weak point for me though. I think I remember seeing your Range Rover, also dunroving's V12 Jag engine.

That, I like. I'm sure there are people making bags and other fashion items from old inner tubes too.