Night Train

I suppose you can fit any width tyre to any width rim if you are determined enough. I have 265-75-15 on 5.5" rims on my tractor though the website recommends 7.5"-9". However, my tractor is not road legal. There can be problems with handling and difficulty with seating the beads if the rim is the wrong width. This could have a detrimental effect on your insurance if it were found to be a potential cause of an incident on the road. I would go with the tyre manufacturer's reccomendations for correct wheel size if you are running on the public road.

I don't know of any motor vehicle diff, locking or otherwise, that operates that way. The only ones I have seen are on pedal tricycles and quadracycles. If the diff operated as you describe then the vehicle would not be able to go in reverse. Where did you get this idea from that the diff would only drive the inner wheel while the outer freewheels?

Thanks. They don't do a professional blade that would fit my saw, only the Fury one at 20 teeth and the life expectancy of a fruit fly and the Rage blade with 24 teeth. The site claims each blade is only suitable for their respective saws though they are the same apart from colour and tooth count. The professional blades are only 205mm but the bore is too small at 16mm or too big at 230mm at the right 25.4mm bore. I may have to buy a better saw for the sake of a blade with life span.

As mentioned in Fridge Freezer's roll cage thread someone mentioned changing their Rage circular saw blade for a conventional metal cutting blade for longer life and better cutting I think? I have a Fury 210mm saw and the blade has suddenly stopped cutting. Any recommendations for a better replacement blade and where to get one from please? I've seen them at 355mm but I would struggle to fold it into my saw! Cheers.

I've wondered that in the past. I've put it down to presenting a tube section that fitted within the 3" width of the top of chassis rails. Coming in at an angle could present a slash cut on the tube that was wider then the plate that welds to the top of the chassis. Also it would reduce the space in the well between the ends of the hoop but that could be a minor issue. Another point could be that the floor of the well is some distance above the chassis so aiming to come in on just one bend would require the hoop to pass theouh a section of the wheel box or approach from a bend very high up to give a shallower angle. Easier to to add the extra bend in and drop to the chassis vertically with a round section.

Personally I would fit anti burst if I didn't have them. I have suffered the near misfortune of nearly 'exiting stage left' while on a roundabout in a friend's series 2 that was pre seat belts. It't leaning on the door a bit due to cornering and body flex that caused them to pop open rather then cornering G force in my experience. I also had the same thing happen in a helicopter 'joy ride' at a rally when my three 'mates' sitting on my right got the lap belts wrong and I only had half the belt to hand when the chopper took off. Sods law said it banked to the left all the way and I had three blokes leaning on me to look out of my window while I hung on till my knuckles bled (nearly) and the door popped open. New trousers? You bet!

This site recommends a 8x16 rim to 9.5x16 rim for that tyre size.

I never knew that. Cheers, I'm going to re-spec some of the fasteners on my trike project. What's the strength comparison with stainless A2, A4 and 8.8 steel bolts of the same size? I can't find any comparison data.

I do sometimes get my 'odd' bolts from Ebay. Not always the cheapest but I can get 1 or 2 and not a box of 50. You could use M12 x 1.5 cap screws/bolts as they are 12.9 strength.

Have you thought about countersunk bolts? My OCD would still have me aligning the hexagons. I can't see any connection between the ring and the end of the pipe. Do you get much movement between them causing rattling?

I trained as a diesel and HGV mechanic in 1985 as well as a plumber, electrician, carpenter and, most recently, furniture maker and teacher. I love the furniture side of things to make a living but the mechanics as a hobby. The last car repair I did really annoyed me as the chap didn't pay and has now become 'uncontactable'. Really lost interest in it as I'm finding too many people, with road cars, who expect the world for very little money and want Rolls Royce quality work on their £500 rust bucket! However, the range of skills is definately very transferable in to so many areas. I prefer electrical to plumbing as electricity doesn't leak out and damage the house in the same way that water can. I can repair a live, bare cable with out problem but a live, open pipe is a bit messy.

Can you buy a regulator for the small bottles? My old Clarke mig used the little bottles but it did also have a cheap plastic regulator that showed the flow rate. Without it there was no other way to control the gas flow.

I often try to add a random female friend to my insurance if I am not in a relationship. Even learners, so I can teach them to drive, reduces the insurance.

I like the 127 option myself as it is bonnetted, but there is always this. http://www.4wdonline.com/LandRover/Series/FC/2B.html

Just get a 2B forward control and add a big Truckman type top?

I also usd a pump sprayer. I removed the lance and used the pipe on it's own with a 1/4" gas valve and a bit of copper pipe as a spout. Pump up to pressure and then hang the spout in the gearbox filler hole and open the gas tap. Close tap when full.

I wish someone had told me about not welding galv when I first started working on cars. I was head down in the foot well welding up holes with galvanised steel sheet much of the time.

So would that make the big lump a free wheel unit?

Looks like a centre diff. The dog clutch is the locker as it locks the output shaft on the right to the case of the diff.

I last picked up some stepped pullies from the scrap yard. They came off old industrial sewing machine motors.

Some of those are just standard Land Rovers with a bolt on accessory or a paint job.

Well the EU are talking about legislating noise makers on electric cars so that they are not quiet anymore. Sort of defeats one of the great advantages of an EV. However, if all other vehicles were quieter then people could hear the EV approaching due to tyre noise.

Maybe someone should use it for a team event in a trial.

I just found this on Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Cracker-Car-/170666116647?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item27bc7e4627 Pushmepullyou anyone?

A wood router does a very good job on aluminium as does a circular saw if it is not too fast. I find jigsaws very noisy and rattley. I have a nibbler, well a pair of them, too. The sort that punches a crescent shaped 'nibble' out of the sheet as it advances. The little crescents have two razor sharp points on them so clearing the bench of them is definately gloves on.