Night Train

I have my inverter on a permenant live feed from the battery with just a fuse and an isolator to control the supply. It does mean that I can be charging tool batteries and laptop or running a printer or 240v power tools without leaving my keys in the ignition and a temptation to local tea leaves.

Have you considered hard wood planks? Oak or Iroko would be good. Iroko should be able to stand up to the weather without any problems, it is oily enough.

I would use the dial gauge in the plug hole method to find TDC and then mark the pulley. To find the 2 deg increments have you thought of buying a cheap protractor from the stationers and placing it on the pulley and then marking off each degree mark you need?

Maybe not but there is the indemnity issue should they fail in service. At least with a manufacturer all the blame wouldn't rest on your own shoulders if you can prove the wheel wasn't fit for purpose or was made to a substandard.

A deep, coarse thread could turn the thickness of the sheet into one turn of thread. That may, in some cases, be better then a couple of turns of finer thread. I prefer inserts and rivnuts on thin sheet.

Some may know I am into electric vehicles. This project has started on another forum I use. Judge Dredd 101 electric conversion. I hope he manages to see it through to the end. It would be a great project.

Thanks, I think I will do it with tubes in. It is only for my own slow speed use on my own bit of space so no risk of getting sued, or hurt really. There is hardly enough weight to squash them down even with out air I think! A nice pair of 7.5" width 8 spokes or modulars would be good if I could find a couple near me and cheap.

I have a couple of 265 75 16 tyres and a couple of 6.5" 16" rims. I know that from the tyre bible a 265 width tyre should be on a 7.5"-9" rim but could I get away with squeezing them on the 6.5" rims at low pressure for low speed, off the public road use? The axle weight will only be about 350kg max. Cheers

Glad you approve, David. I am chatting with a chap in the States who is building one with a 13" motor and 2000A controller. That will be a real hotrod tractor puller. My motor is only 7" and maybe 200A I hadn't considered the long flexibles due to the mismatched ends but at that price it may make things easier. The build so far has come in at less then £100 and I am trying to keep cost down so I can invest in the batteries. I will mount the calipers and cylinders and see what the pipe run is like. Thanks.

Thanks David. For fear of this being locked for being off topic here are some photos of the said project. It will have Land Rover master cylinders and eventually some big Land Rover knobbly tyres. You can see the discs just inboard of the wheels. The drive chain This is the back end of the transaxle. It has some very hefty mountings that the 6mm steel platform is bolted to and those will make good brake caliper mounts. I was banking on having a curly 'pigtail' of pipe before the caliper connection and probably also to the master cylinders too in case of flex or vibration. I think for the small amount of cost in having one master cylinder and two inline slaves the benfit would be worth while. I would then have a throttle and service brake on the right foot and a pair of fiddle brakes on the left foot.

Right, that is good. I can have a 3/16" pipe with 3/8" UNF at one end and M10x1 at the other end. Thank you.

Excellent, thank you. Now I know that they don't match but there is a possible fix. I would like to be able to make up my own pipe work to fit but I will find out the cost of getting them made. I don't mind a leak proof bodge with metric fitting on imperial pipe or vice versa as it is only going on a compact tractor with a top speed of 10mph. No flexibles needed either as the transaxle is all solid to the chassis. I knew Land Rover folk would know!

If anyone would be able to tell me in simple terms it would be someone here. I want to pipe up a couple of Series 3 clutch master cylinders to a pair of Corsa/Tigra front brake calipers for my project. How do I work out what size the pipe fittings are so I can buy the right ones? I think I am going to use either two master cylinders or one master cyclinder and two slave cyclinders to have fiddle brakes and main brakes together. Thank you.

In my MGB of old I had a number of high pitch, high volume sounders hidden around the interior that were wired to the ignition. Unless they were isolated first, by hidden switches, the noise was almost intollerable while trying to start the car. I like Simon's idea.

Wishing you well, Chris.

Be careful pulling those magnets in your pocket though, aside from the damage they can do to your credit cards, when they stick you want to keep your skin from being trapped between them.

How about RS Components? These and these? Depends on the force and the stroke you need.

Maplins. Two channel. Three channel.

Cynical, and just my thoughts too. I just don't trust the Government with any more knowledge about my personal and legitimate information then they need to know. The thing about theft is a red herring in my opinion, unless they eventually want a data base of everything that we own to make theft recovery easier.

Don't forget to take into account how and where the cable is run. Placing it in a conduit or burying it in the ground or covering it in an insulating material will all reduce the heat disipation compared to surface fixed and so the cable may need to be increased in size accordingly. Also the type of cable; singles in a large trunking through to armoured cable in a bundle of others may also affect heat dissipation too.

Maybe that explains my chainsaw starting issues when it has been left for a few months. Perhaps it is a good excuse to get driving any petrol powered projects more frequently.

I only use the ball end once the screw has been loosened with a straight key.

That'll do for the school run!

It may even be easier and cheaper to get an ordinary, well looked after Land Rover and build your own body on the back for the amount of work restoring one to something it wasn't.