Orange

In this day and age of all this technology, is it wrong of me to use a slightly primitive "oooh, there's some mud, lets drive through it" navigation system???

Ahhhh, is that what those hoses are for???

Why not mount it in the centre of the bonnet?? That's what I've done with mine and I get quite good signal strength. As long as the aerial sticks out about the car, it should work well enough. Also, it saves fiddling with the already fragile roof lining!! You'll never get it back right! The previous set-up on my blue RR was using a gutter mount - rubbish!! Same aerial, but couldn't get a good enough signal to pick up a transmission from about 200 yards away!

Hmmmmm, maybe the blue RR isn't going to get sold in one piece after all!! I'm gradually creating a list of bits and pieces to take off it!!

Is it possible to use the electric window switches for this?? What I was thinking was a normal window up-down for the winch control and the rear window isolator (from the middle of a 4-door system) as, well, an isolator?? Sound feasible??

Good final installment, but the whole series seemed to lack many articles on cars. They have filled up each show with making something - not a bad thing, but the whole point is to show new cars and rag them silly round the test track and generally put them down! Not the best series, but still absolutely hilarious!

As the question has been asked again, I thought that I'd put a few pictures and explanations up for those performing this little job in the future. I carried out this job on my 3.9 Auto RRC, I think it may even be applicable to the Discovery autos too, but couldn't be sure. First of all, I must thank Charles (Bishbosh) for the information that he gave me before I started the job! B) As far as I am aware, this is only applicable to fiting low-line winches such as the Warn M8000 and the Superwinch EP9. I don't even think you could get away with a EP9i (solenoids in the bridge over drum) as it would foul the cooler. First thing to do is ensure that you have a friendly hydraulic place that can make up hoses on request, otherwise you could be off the road for a few days. Disconnect the hoses and drain the oil into a container. In total about 750ml came out of mine, including what was in the cooler, so make sure you've got something big enough. You will then need to undo the pipe clamp that is located under the radiator. This is quite tricky, but with the use of a couple of levers, the rad can be lifted just enough to get the bolt all the way out. Pull (wriggle) the old pipes out and toddle off to your hydraulic place and part with some cash. Mine cost me about £70 completed due to the owners like for the folding stuff!! He did threaten to charge me about £85 quid It's at this stage I'll mention that any slack in the pipes will be very hard to get rid of. Make sure the new pipes are the same length (possibly an inch shorter) than the original ones. Any longer and you will struggle to lose the extra length. I got the two pipes made up with 45 deg connectors on one end and straight on the other. However, I would now advise that the pipe that connects to the top of the rad would benefit from 45 deg on both ends. As the picture shows, the pipe gets a little close to the alternator: And viewed from above: The original pipes are made up of combinations of rigid and flexis. I went for completely flexible replacements as they were cheaper than having the right combinations made up. Once you have the pipes re-routed and attached at the engine and rad, turn to the front. The oil cooler can be repositioned at the top of the radiator. This will mean moving the horns, but with a little careful metal-work, they can be mounted beside the headlight. As I have a fairly close fitting winch bumper, it was necessary to route the pipes behind the stays in front of the radiator: Once both pipes are connected and the horns and cooler secured in place and the grille back on, the front looked a little like this: And, although it looks a little close to the oil cooler, the solenoid box does miss it with enough spare room: Final thing to do is run the engine for a few minutes and check the oil level in the auto box. Top up with fresh oil if necessary as what came out probably picked up dust and dirt on its way into the container!! All in all this probably took about 4 hours to do, including a good hours round trip to get the pipes made up. There was a bit of jiggery-pokery to get the pipes in the right place when we fitted the winch, but only a case of loosen the unions and twist a bit. I hope that helps someone else.

Original equipment for the discs and pads would be my advice. As for the solid brake pipes, you'll struggle to get some from a dealer without a "how f-in much??" price tag, so probably best to take the old ones off and take them somewhere to get some made up. There is a thread in the Tech archive about how to do your own if you are feeling adventurous. Shocks - original would be my advice too, unless you are uprating springs, too.

We did clear all of the faults and took the car for a drive, but didn't retest as we ran out of time after checking fuses and relays! I think I need to reseat the front sensors and see what happens then!

Another ABS question, I'm afraid!! We managed to get the fault codes out of the ECU this afternoon (all 13 of them) to find that most of them relate to the front sensors, however, fault code 2-8 seems to be the most problematic at the moment. It's description (from the link in the Tech Archive) is "No voltage to ABS solenoid valves, faulty valve relay AB14 or wiring". The first question: where are the ABS solenoid and relay AB14?? Second question: Does anyone know what these fuses do?? The reason I ask is that one of them was blown and blew again as soon as we replaced it! (second in from the right) They are located behind the ABS ECU under the passenger seat under a black plastic cover. One of the other fault codes suggests that there is a short to earth and we think this fuse is in the middle of the wire that's got the problem. The haynes manual I have covers the 1992 model, but doesn't have any information on the ABS system. Does anyone have a set of wiring diagrams or could you point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance! Adrian

There was no issue with me swapping to my chosen repairer, other than 4 days lost due to the time it takes for the inspection and the garage getting the 'nod' as it were! The courtesy car remained, but I did have to put it on my insurance so that cost me in admin charges... My comments were only added to make sure that people are aware that although insured with a 4x4 specialist (Adrian Flux in my case) the policies are farmed out to the highest bidder (or lowest, but you get my point!!) so it doesn't mean that your policy is held by a company that know stuff about your particular car. For example: Me - "Hi there, I'm ringing up to check the progress of my claim ref: ####### for my Land Rover Discovery" Ins - "Your what?" Me - "My Land Rover Discovery" Ins - "Oh, is that like one of those Range Rover things??" Case rested!! I did bang my head against the wall at that point!!

Although my experience with Adrian Flux on the price and cover side of things has been wonderful, I would advise that they are only a broker! They specialise in doing deals for 4x4s ( and other special stuff) but they still use the normal insurance companies in the main. This means that although you are fully insured, the company that your policy actually ends up with may not be a 4x4 specialist. I only say this because when I had my little claim back in September, the actual insurance company (Royal Sun Alliance) didn't have a recognised Land Rover Repairer on their approved list. They offered me no end of bodywork shops that were on their list, but none of them were Land Rover Approved. This meant delays while the engineer inspected the car and the garage that I (the one who pays the money - how dare I) wanted my car repaired at to maintain the warranty on the vehicle. This may not be a major issue for those who run vehicles that they maintain and fix themselves (it certainly wouldn't worry me for the RR), but in this instance it is a car that the company fund via allowance, therefore everything needs to be in tip-top order. Just a point worth noting. You pay the money to the 4x4 insurance specialist, but actually get generic insurance policy number 7 from the actual insurer. 2 pennies in the pot!

I'm not playing anymore!!! Leave me alone!

That's what I was after, thanks guys! I have the picture that Porny posted up, but assumed that as the vehicle pictured is a left hand drive one, it would still be under the drivers seat on a right hand drive one!! Silly old me!! Mo - go back to your funky tunes and shorted winch cables!! It is soft, but it comes with a newer car that is held together by more than rust and prayers!! As always, the panel has come up trumps! Ta muchly.....

Second the Adrian Flux route!! Bear in mind that they are only a broker, though! 02 plate Disco 2, 25 year old with 3 years NCB - paid just over 600 notes. It is standard, but it's a £14k car used for business mileage! Another option is Snowball Insurance (do a search and you will find some bits and pieces on here). I just got my RR on a classic policy limited to 2k miles per year and paid £151 with the modifications declared! HTH Adrian

Where is the ABS ECU located on a 1992 Classic Rangie?? I've been looking under the seat and under the drivers side of the dash and can't find anything that looks like the WABCO unit! My guess is it's under the passenger side of the dash, but thought i'd check before ripping it all out!! Told you it was a silly question!! TIA Adrian

I did say "all the Aldis I know"....... Maybe that means that I hang around in dodgy areas!!! Oh, the shame!!

Remember, though, Chris......the springs on the RR will be a little softer than on the 90!!! Or they will with a lump of this in the back!!

You do have locking wheel nuts..............don't you??!! All the Aldi's I know are in, shall we say, 'suspect' areas!!! I shall be borrowing a pool car from work, I think!!

As Mark says ^^^^^^^ (Damn older brothers!! Always stealing the thunder!!!) I would make one alteration to the set up I had made! The connections at the cooler ends of the pipe were both done with 45 deg. unions. The other ends were both straight connectors. The one that fits to the top of the rad was a RPITA to fit and get clear of the alternator, so a 45 deg. joint there would help you along nicely. I got the pipes made up for £70 IIRC. They wanted 75 plus VAT, but turning up with the folding stuff works wonders with the blokes at my local hydraulic shop! One thing Mark did forget to mention is that once the cooler is at the top of the rad, you may have to find alternate locations for the horns. We turned mine round to mount on the outside of the radiator shroud and with a little bit of creative metal-work (read as bending) got them to mount OK. HTH Adrian PS....if you want some closer piccies, I can get some for you if you like.....

I've just been looking at the tool kits that go with the compressor and want to know if the air impact wrench kit would run off of a compressor this small?? I know the details for the compressor say it's compatible with all the other air tools, but not the wrench! Any opinions, cos I might go and get one on Thursday!!??

Cheers guys! Was just making sure as I've put it together and routed the cable so it doesn't rub the hub, so all should be fine!

Just a thought - and I'm no expert at electrics - but does everything work?? If the switched items work, but the illumination doesn't, it can't be an earth fault - can it?? If the earth is faulty, nothing will work.

I purchased a new set of Lockheed (Delphi) brake pads from Bearmach a few days ago in readiness for replacing the rear hub oil seal (oil on the pads) and when I took the pads out of the box I found that the wear sensor was in a different position to the pads that came out. Old pad on the left (not overly worn, but worth replacing as I was doing the other side anyway) and new pad on the right. Does anyone know if this is wrong, or whether different makes of pads have different arrangements for the sensor?? I've fitted the pad for the time being. Had to trim the plug slightly, but nothing major. I would just like to know i'm going to be taking it apart again to get the right pads??

I, like you Bish, don't know much about Defenders!! Probably best asking about them in the Defender Forum