Orange

I did think about Factory Plus 1, but it suggests that you are only allowed 1 mod.....doesn't it??

Not overly ofait with the class system for these events, but I did have a little think and came up with : Factory (one aid) Factory Plus (2 aids) Modified (the list is endless) Obviously with a little sub-note to explain for inexperienced folk like me!! As I said, probably not a great idea, but seems quite easy to understand to me and that's always good!! Adrian

There are plenty of men only clubs already. You just need to know where to look!!! So I hear...

Is it me or don't the links work?? Might just be the work internet access arrangements!!

"By all means, keep your culture, but do not force it on others." I like that!!! Nothing personal against the Aussies, but I think that's funny!!!!!

If it's definitely around the valley then this is a silly suggestion, but have you touched the spark plugs? We had a bit of an issue with one not seating quite right and even though it tightened up well enough there was something in the way and it produced quite a nice little whistling sound! As I said, probably a silly point, but worth mentioning, I think!

My parts book is for 1986-1991 MY vehicles, but I expect it's a fairly standard set of bolts, so here goes: Lower latch bolt (same as the top ones) : 78591 (described as a SCREW) Upper tailgate handle bolts (again, described as a SCREW) : SE910481 (outer) and SE910441 (inner) - 2 of each apparently, but I have never taken one apart, so can't confirm that!! Hope that helps a little! Adrian

Bish - does that still work with only a 1" lift? You're running +2", aren't you?

Nice one Dan! A great help! I wonder if it should be in the tech archive? I'll drop Tony a pm and see if it qualifies!! Adrian

Any piccies of the interesting stuff and the finished article then?? Have been waiting for you to finish the project!! Adrian

Afternoon all! Having had a trawl back through some previous posts, I am getting thoroughly confused over what needs trimming from the rear arch to enable us to fit some 235/85/16 tyres on! Some have said just trim the lip, others 20mm off the arch and some even to trim right back to the seal! The front arch isn’t a problem as we’ll be trimming that anyway, it’s the rear I’m struggling to get my head round! The current situation: +1" lift currently running 235/70/16s on white 8-spokes. We get a fair amount of rubbing/catching on the outer edge of the arches. Proposed set-up: Exactly the same on the suspension side of things, but running 235/85/16 on Disco steels (less offset) so fewer issues with the outer lip! Has anyone got any close-up photos of what would need trimming out of the rear arch - like doors open looking at the arch showing the end result, or from underneath? If there are posts I’ve missed that explain this, please point me in the right direction!! Cheers Adrian

And an awfully large pair of steelsons, if I remember correctly!!!!!!! If you do need to grip the shocker with something, make sure you do it around the weld - otherwise they crumple with minimal force!! Go on, ask me how I know!!!

Heart problems make you more determined to enjoy the life you have!! I found that out at the tender age of 19! Never looked back and plan not to in the future! Sorry to hear about your problems, but glad you are on the mend! Adrian

Maybe it's like baseball!! You start with 3 strikes and then each time you step over the line, one is take away until.......yoooouuuurrrr-outta-here!!!

Nige - Thanks for that! I have tried taking out the distributor and rotating one tooth round both ways, but to no avail! It is either too far advanced of way short of the mark! I think the problem lies either around number 3 or in the point that Chris has made! Further investigation, methinks!!

Cheers Chris! Will have a look and see if there is anything obvious wrong with it. However limited your knowledge of EFi systems is, it's most probably more than mine so I am glad of the advice!!

My parts book covers vehicles in the range of 1986-1991 MY. Might be relevant though!! First question - I'm guessing that it's petrol cos it's got a y-piece?? The only petrol exhaust in my book with a triangular flange shows it as part of the downpipe, number NTC2802 (RH) or NTC3226 (LH) looking from front of vehicle. On the diesel side of things, the 2.4 NAD Up to VIN GA shows NTC1480 as a flange separate from the pipe. Other systems, like with the petrol come as part of the downpipe assembly. Not sure if I've helped, but maybe......

Food.........always food!!!!!!! I don't think so, although I wouldn't know how to check it!! It has been running (in the loosest possible way) since the backfire, so I think it can be ruled out! Correct me if I am wrong though!!

Cheers for taking the time Pugwash! Timing needs to be done because I had to change the front crankshaft oil seal a little while ago. No worries with that, it was running fine beforehand and the only thing that was done with the ignition was remove the distributor from the timing chest. The fuel system, leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm stayed together and attached to the vehicle to avoid the problem of getting leads in the wrong place! Spark is good at all plugs. TDC has been taken from the timing marks on the main pulley-ring (if that makes sense!) The solid ring attached to the back of the main pulley. Timing marks line up with the marker attached to the timing chest which wasn't removed - the marker than is! We were 180 degrees out, but aren't now! A large puff of black smoke up the inlet gave that away the first time we set it up, so that was changed. Fuelling hasn't been touched and it does start occasionally, just runs like a bag of nails, so I don't think it's a fuelling problem. When it does start, the advance/retard isn't enough to get it to run smoothly. By moving the distributor round one tooth, it's too far out to start! Aaaaaarrrrrrggggghhhhh!!

As we all know, the secret to comedy is……….timing! However, the secret to timing isn’t comedy!! At least, I’ve tried laughing it off, but it’s not working and I’m starting to get a little hacked off with it! After the 4th day and about the 10th attempt, the starter motor gave up the ghost and dispensed a nasty smelling smoke into the engine bay, So I stopped there and left before I hurt myself throwing things at it!! However, even after following the Land Rover Workshop Manual’s procedure, I still can’t get the bl##dy thing to run, if it starts at all, without sounding like a bag of nails and stalling when the fans kick in! Can anyone tell me the secret to timing a 3.5 Efi? ? Even better, would someone be interested in coming over and having a little tinker while I make tea and provide biscuits and moral support??!! Or, if you would prefer beer and pork scratchings… !!

I used a protractor and compass set the other day!! Also, recently used a scalpel blade and drawing pens to correct ancient engineering drawings!! Got absolutely covered in ink...(mainly cos the pens hadn't been used for years)....those were the days!!!

Careful though!!!! We've seen what Pinzgauer drivers do to the front ends of Discoveries in South Wales!!! Have a fun time!! We really enjoyed the lanes in the area back in February!!

Got a pair of Jate Rings (the one-piece type) on the back of the RR. Used with a bridle to spread the load, we've never had any problems with them moving, twisting or breaking!! Had a pair on the front too, which got fairly well used, until we beefed up a bit with a steering guard, and now a winch bumper! Nato hitches are the doggies, but you can't beat the Jates for safe, cheap and effective!! Just my 2p!!

Mmmmmmm....body coloured bumpers........on a defender??????? Tasteful!!!

Don't know if the topic in the Tech archive helps, but it's here.......Tech Archive Was useful reference when we were wiring electric fans up!!