Orange

My thanks also to the organisers and marshalls of the event. A very enjoyable day with only minor bruises resulting! Bish - if you are reading this, I'm ready to swap bonnets now........ Congratulations to all the winners and to all the people who took part as well! Adrian (Team 17 - 2nd driver)

London Transport always said it was "quicker by tube"!!!!!!! I know!! I'll shut the door on my way out!!

I would have bought a V8 and converted to gas if the company I work for would have allowed it! You'd pay less at the pump (or double the mpg) and you'll pay less road tax - I think that is still the case, anyway! I'd love one! The TD5 just lacks that bit of oomph that the V8 has an abundance of!! Given the choice again, it would be a V8 and sod what the boss says! ACE wasn't standard and as BM says, it means there is a lot less to go wrong! Mine doesn't suffer for not having it, but I rarely use it fully loaded!

SHB4x4 is still an active company....... A few of the major construction companies down here are still using them, anyway!

I think the safety side is paramount! The wheel arch is there to stop persons hitting the tyre/wheel and also to stop things flying off and hitting people. If you have tyre protruding from the arch and you go over a load of gravel/mud then there is likely to be debris flying all over the place. This is highlighted by the 'rooster-tail' effect when driving through mud!! Some forumeers will know all about it. I think it's more likely to be a Mr Plod thing than an MoT failure as you are not affecting the roadworthiness of the vehicle, as such, just the potential to cause harm to other road users!

AFAIK tyres are not allowed to protrude from the wheel arch at all.

Is it possible to put the drop arm on in the wrong position?? I guess what I'm asking is is it on splines, or a key-way arrangement and can therefore only go on in one place?? I have the same issue on my RR and am a little worried that there is too much thread showing on the drag link ball joints......

To be honest, there isn't much between the suppliers! They all equal out to about the same once you take into account their delivery costs.... It's show season very soon, so I'd wait. Mr Bowyer was very open to negotiation when I was waving pound notes at Billing! Check outthe Goodwinch Website for his ever constant prices on these 2 winches! OEC sell them, too, as do Winch Solutions and various other suppliers. Worth a phone round to get the best deals!

Southdown also do a nice bumper - not specifically for a Disco, but it fits a RR, so it should work.... And a slightly modified one: I'm sure it would look pretty good on a Disco!!

The EP9 had no problems hauling my lardy RR around Seven Sisters and I hope it will perform well at the Mike Wolfe! I got mine at Billing last year after a lot of digging and haggling to find the right price. The package was bare minimum: EP9 100ft of 11mm Dyneema Wiring + controller Isolator Stainless Hawse I, personally, didn't want the rest of the strops, shackles and snatch block that was part of the package as none of them appeared to be rated, so managed to speak with David Bowyer and negotiate a much better price. I don't know what your idea of a few hundred quid2 is, but I was more than happy with the price I paid and no-one else could better it! Goodwinch have standard prices and only really offer discounts at the big shows. For a basic idea look HERE The important thing to remember with accessories is that they are all rated/stamped. I think all of my shackles are at least 4.5t rating and the snatch block I have is an 8 ton rating and all of my strops are 5000kgs I think. I'm sure the Honiton Hobbit, Mr Lovepump himself, will be along in a while to sing the praises of the Come-Up 9000 range in a minute, and he is well justified in doing so. They are a rebadged EP9 and perform equally as well. You will also need to look at whether you are going to run wire or rope. There is a distinct advantage in having an external brake mechanism (EP9, 8274 etc...) if you want to run dyneema or plasma as the heat build up will be less than with an in-drum brake set-up.

No, no...........Let me get the door!! ...............clunk!!

I'd move the ply - you'd have alot more room to work!!

Paid earlier, but didn't get a chance to post before the forum 'went over'!! Nice one!

AFAIK, it doesn't matter about the ABS sensors cos the CV slides out past them! It's a relatively straight forward job, but can get very messy if you've got grese in the swivels rather than oil. Get the entire shaft out and onto the bench where it'll be easier to work on and give it a good clean so you can see what you are doing!!

Yep - Nige is a real person!!!

You didn't...................did you??????? You'll only knock it off at the MWWC!!!!!!!!!!

I'll have an XL please!! Paypal can be done on request!! While you are on the T-Shirt idea........how about some to raise funds for the LR4x4 gin fund?? Seeing as you can get a good price - would prefer polo-neck Ts, but not overly fussy!!

Nice one! I was thinking that it would be fairly straight forward - it's a LR afterall!!! Cheers Adrian

I am starting to get a bit of a squeal from the front brakes on the D2 (TD5) and rather than get stung for over £100 for fitting at the service next month, I'm thinking of buying some Lockheed pads and fitting myself! Firstly, are the Lockheed pads the ones to go for? Bearmach stock them along with Mintex ones, but I've heard bad reports about the Mintex ones being very soft and making lots of noise....... Secondly, how difficult is it? I am quite used to whipping the brakes apart on the RR (2 split pins and a bit of leverage and they are out) and have done several cars before now, but the calipers look a bit more complicated than previous ones I've tackled! Thirdly, are there any special tools that I'll need?? Any pointers gratefully received! TIA Adrian

This may sound like a silly question, but could the cut-out be on the in-cab or remotely mounted controls? Not on the wander lead, but anything hard-wired to the car, if you know what I mean..... Just thinking, cos this would be an easier solution for Discos and RRs and I need to put in some in-cab controls for my set-up.

My 2002 manual uses a full tank every 480 miles, but most of that is relatively short trips of 12-15 miles at a time. I did manage to get 540 something last week, though as I did several longer excursions and drove it like a granddad! My average for the last 3 months has been 26.6 mpg, so not as bad as the RR, but not great either!

Or fit larger wheels/tyres on the back for that 'dragster' look!! Not sure how it would look on a D2, though!!

Here you go!!! It might help, but as Les says - it's a whole can of worms!!

There is a whole thread on people's winch set-ups on here somewhere...... Most people have their reasons for choosing their particular set-up on there too... Can't remember where it is, but I'll have a look and see what I can find! HTH Adrian

So, why doesn't he just end the item early?? He's obviously got access to his account to answer the questions!!