sheltie50

You could do the engine swap (I put a 200 Disco into my RRC) but I reckon you should use a diesel gearbox, I found trouble with the length of the input shaft and understand that the V8 ratio's are likely to be quite wrong on a 200tdi.

Do You have a shake in the steering or is it noise/vibration, have you had a look around the rear and unlikley here but checked the steering colum uj's, sounds like drive coupling wearing.

The earlier LT77 boxes fitted to the V8 had shorter input shafts, I found this out the hard way too, later "I think" 5 gear short gear lever boxes" were a direct fit but I also think the ratio's were different for the diesel.

Models built very late in the year have an access panel in the rear load area to allow the fuel pump to be replaced without removing the fuel tank (VIN# 454554 on up). Fourth frame crossmember (what the self energizing “hydromat” ride leveling device is bolted to) changed from square to tubular (some late 1989 models may have this round crossmember). Rear shock mounts were redesigned late in the year (after VIN 450646) so the shocks are held on with a bolt rather than a cotter pin.

Oh jeez, my head still hurts Yup thats a shame, up here in the middle of the North sea corrosion is a real problem to the point where you can almost hear steel rust, at least I will have some fun wrecking and dumping my old and rusted Jeep in the morning.

Well you see I've had a land rover od one kind or another for 15 years and had an interest for as long as I can remember but now at my age I cant remember how long that was/is? I have collected quite a bit of info over the years during rebuilds of most types, sometimes a site like this is essential if only to show what the panel should look like! and can be a good source of what is becoming rare bits, we should thank and support them for their contribution towards land rover survival. The older body shell didnt have the bit lenny is looking for, it was the almost flat panel seen on that link, dont know if the older part could be used instead, tonight Bacardi rules hic!! This far north we need to have some fun during the dark winter season.

Hi vougese39, yes I did borrow your info "sorry" just spreading the knowledge with the standard l/r obsession it will be interesting to see any response to this issue. One classic blew its expansion bottle up after a head gasket job with new cap and stat but that (I assume) was due to an internal crack which we never found the fault.

From another forum, could relate to your problem. P38A DIESEL RADITAORS BUYERS BEWARE!!!!!!! I bought earlier this year for one of my customer a brand new radiator as his was leaking . no nothing wrong with that new coolant vehicle ran to temp heater orings replaced previously and no other leaks found but 3 days ago his rad burst at the top when i contacted the rad firm they informed me that it is a known fault and not covered under warranty!!!!! now the firm says there are aware and have independant reports detailing this very coman fault? spoke to my mate at the local land rover dealer first he has heard of it as well! anybody else had this problem? i'm suspecting the cap as the engine is a brand new unit(new state and water pump) from land rover only 30,000 miles old very well serviced and maintained when it went it didn't even over heat he stopped straight away and was recovered

http://bap.dominohosting.biz/members/bap/bapdb01.nsf/Plookup2/71-15-288LAND%20ROVERRANGE%20ROVER70-10-94!EditDocument&Ret=ALL A few interesting bits on here, havnt seen the bit your looking for, plenty for the older bodyshell, doesnt look to bad to make up though.

http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/blendmotor.html Have a look at this link it might give some clue, you will need a copy of rave and quite a bit of knowledge if you plan to go in there. As said it needs to be plugged in to be sure of the fault/s

http://www.landroverspares.co.uk/product.html?cpdID=4506 Have a look at the footwell repair section, it might help some.

Good no prob on gearing then, correct oil and level will make the differance.

What axle's and diffs are you using.

Check the battery connections for corrosion / tightness remove them and clean inside (only if you know the radio code etc) then work your way from the battery down to the earth connection and the engine earth connection, same on the positive down to the starter motor, check from tightness and condition, check that the 12v feed to the starter is in good order, in a situation where it wont turn over give the starter solenoid a sharp clout and try it again, if it then starts you could remove the starter and clean the solenoid internally but replacement will be better and maybe the only cure. You could use a jump cable from engine to earth to prove the earth is good.

Cant think what it can be if the clutch continued to work Pull the engine it's easier. Would be very interested to know. Good luck.

Did you find the problem.

There you go, get a rave on in your p,c Seriously though you will / do need it. It's not really the thing to do but have you tried a shot of aerostart to confirm that it will fire, maybe even start. Stupid question but is there enough fuel in the tank. Is the fuel shut-off wire still on and working. Black thing is a fuel heater, cant think it will make much difference in this country but open to persuasion. Pipe goes onto inlet manifold and should be on. Yes you are relying on the injector pump. The in tank pump requires tank removal to replace it, it can be done by cutting in from the top but unless your sure of location and exactly what your doing, do not go in from the top, fuel pipes and wires are just under the floor etc!! Have you checked that the immobiliser is off so that it can start, anything in the message centre. Its all questions but food for thought.

Does the arm move, they can seize, it's just a circlip so any decent motor factor should have a box of different size's, well found!

Follow your avitar either of them will serve you very well.

Be very careful if this engine has done 100.000+ its good in a car but overstressed in the range rover especially in the manual, but the engine is only a very small part of the P38 and you need to be sure of every part, in a P38 over 100,000 there will be problems waiting for you.

Going to take a chance that you have had to give it several heats on the glow plugs to get the thing started and they have failed due to exesive use. Tank pump can be changed by cutting an access hole in the rear floor but you must be aware that the pipes and wiring are just below the floor and that the new access point should be sealed as per a real one.

Hi, Mine did just this when the front springs were realy shot and the bump stops missing,the front axle and starter made a lasting imperssion on each other when thay made solid contact! it broke the starter motor clean in two, has the starter been changed as the solinoid was moved from bottom to top of the starter or was that the way it had been assembled, anyone? Might be worth checking things like engine mounts and anything which could lead to axle and engine collision !! complete sob when it happened to me!

Try it with the diff lock on/in, does it move and drive, if so tell us, Disco has a known fault with the clutch fork which can wear through giving the effect of no clutch, the front drive shaft flanges can wear and loss of drive out of diff lock is the result, then of course there is the known transfer shaft wear problem, worth a few tests before drawing a conclusion.

I took the yoke over to our friendly hydraulic press and had it done in minuites, it's incredably well stuck in there and not much will move it or replace it.

I really don't think corrosion is a problem on the P38 my 95dse is almost corrosion free! but someone might know better, the only trouble Ive seen was just below the rear windows at the rear corner and might have been more to do with that one, the real trouble is the electronics which you must check very very carefully.