sheltie50

My clutch has failed in a fairly major way. (1995 deisel manual) I have had trouble with all the symptoms of a faulty DMF. I have no intention of replacing THE DMF due to the cost of the unit and age of R/R Has Anyone tried welding the DMF solid??

Could easily be a developement of the original problem, If the torque plate and and converter are loose it could have collided with the crankshaft sensor, the result could be lose of run signal. If it wont start on lpg or petrol but will fire on easy-start it suggests that the engine isnt totally flubbered it might just need to te told where number one cylinder is through the crank sensor. It would be normal for bad noise to be followed by component failure as previously mentioned. By the way mine can fit into a starard garage door with the mirrors folded in but it's tight.

Try to push them back after a little clean-up and a soaking in brake fluid overnight,(the calliper that is, not you) Losen the top of the master cylinder while you try to move them, try it with the calliper in place and the other pad also in place, if that doesnt work or you cannot move the piston with gentle pressure on the brake pedal I really sugest that in this case the calliper should be replaced and the others checked. Please dont take chances with your brakes, you might need them to stop two tons of metal on a sixpence

And then ther's my old SIIa which almost had to be turned left to go right

I didnt think of as it sounded heavier but it would explain the lack of rythme, hope it is.

I have had a fair bit of trouble with mine but it's not new so-- for all that I complain about it, when it's good it's very very good. The heater controls are not really that bad to work with look up www.landrovers.net for a few shortcuts. Reckon your right about sat/nav's our's is Dorris, she also has the odd moment like saying "take the next on the left" which I duly did, a little later it said "in two miles" I swore at it and ended up in the middle of Bradford !!

Sounds like hel£. A couple of thoughts but it's not easy at distance. 1. Crankshaft damper, dont think so 2. Oil pressure problem or main bearing, dont think so as the noise has almost no rythm.but it could be. 3. Starter motor loose and colliding with drive plate, Possibly, does it work as it should without bad noise. 4. Drive plate or torque converter bolts loose, could well be does the noise stop or change when in gear. 5. It does sound something like my diesel which has a poorly dual mass flywheel and clatters at idle. 6. Someone has been left inside and want's out. 7. Loose alternator or tensioner but it does sound to be from the back of the engine? Watever it is it's a heavy sound and likley to do damage if you continue to use it.

Jeez your not having a good time with this one! Another engine sounds like the best option, I did that when my one went the same way, incidently mine was caused by a very poorly done head gasket replacement, they used the original head bolts. Lots of engines out there but unless it comes from a range rover of simillar age you will need to swap over a lot of bits icluding the injection pump.

Well you lucky if that's the only problem you've got, my one drives my crazy at times and then becomes the best thing on the road but I have looked into digging a hole and burying it at times. From what you say pulling the aerial out might do the job for ever, worth a shot. Good luck.

Are you sure the battery and starter motor are in a good condition, the P38 is a bit fussy about that, if so-- Have a trawl around the net - its more than likely the little box that picks up the signal from your keyfob - some had a habit of waking up the BECM everytime it picked up a wireless network or wireless door bell, then that would kill the battery. I understand an upgraded item is availabe but in the short term, you could try disconnecting the aerial from the box - it sits under the plastic shelf in boot on the drivers side, Note, (the one with coax is for the stereo booster) and only means that you will need to be closer to the R/R to use the klunker button. It's a common enough issue.

I have to confess that I know little about this system but, I reckon you must have air getting in if it were an older model it could well be the master cylinder seals, could be worth checking all joints again keeping an open mind towards a plumbing error. Sounds like a head-ach, good luck.

Far more than a TATA which was and is too much.

Hi I'm a little further north by sea and quite jealous, I'v just spent 27hrs trying to rebuild the front axle of a P38 and in need of alcohol. This is a task which could be done a a few hours on my old classic

In this case it might well be, quite a bit of work to sort it out either way. Changing to a servo system and replumbing the rear axle Oh! and fitting a brake bias valve should work so long as the mot tester is happy, what about insurance as it's substatially altered from standard.

As per previous post-- all trace of ABS must be removed right down to the light which tells you the ABS is not working.

Thanks, I didnt notice your location, rust should not be a problem, where I live we can almost hear them rust hence the assumption of the dreaded tin worm. It's about 1oC up here bet is warmer beside you. Good Luck.

You shouldnt need to lift the body but the rubbers could be tight, When you say the mount has cracked has it corroded ? If so better check the entire structure for corrosion before you start.

Late reply ! The one I did was originally master and servo, I really dont know but reckon you will have to change your one to the earlier configuration. dont think it should pass the mot as it is.

Have a word with these people http://www.designa-chassis.co.uk/chassis.asp Then again you could chop one out of a breaker. Various stories about using all sorts of repair items, I dont think a rear body xmember is strong enough in the long term.

Your making a superb job of this one, better check every corner everywhere while your in there as said previously, Just for interest the easiest way the fit the sills under the B post is to chop the lower 4" off and re-weld it back on later, if fitting inner and outer as an assembly is the only way I've found so far.

Ok, The Panhard rod is fitted between the chassis and the axle, it locates the axle and stops it moving sideways in relation to the body, if the bushes are old/worn it will feel as if it's steering from the back and corners will at best be interesting with the steering wheel movement making little sense, replacement isn't a bad job and you should have it done in the interests of safety. Fair to say that if you have to take evasive action you might well be in trouble before you know it. By the way there's another one at the front!

Your description is typical of a blown head gasket but do check if the top radiator hose is under excessive pressure. The engine should run hot/overheat and the interior heater might not work. And as above.

Did this on a disco some time ago and from memory--- It needs to be replumbed from the master cylinder and to pass a mot all traces of abs must be removed inc the warning light. It needs a splitter on the rear and the pipes across the rear axle are different, there is a different threaded conection which needs to replaced, you need to plumb it so as to remove the return pipe but all this is a little while ago and I might be forgetting something, can you have a look at the configeration on an older model without abs.

Have a look at the air filter and turbo pipes also check that lever from the turbo can move, they have a habit of sticking might be hot so carfull does.

Sounds like it should be a thermostat, I have seen the BMW water pump fail when the plastic impeller comes loose on it's steel shaft.