sheltie50

DONT/DO NOT use box section, simple as that, at least you would have to weld the section into a box and then you will have rear shocker length problems, the box section will flex and it will feel like driving in jam and could collapse. I speak from experiance on this one!! 4" is putting to much stress on your prop-shaft uj's which will wear quickly, 2" with good high wall tyres will be far far better. Much better to buy a pre-made 2" block lift set which will allow you to use standard suspension parts.

If you can hear tappet noise on a V8 something is very wrong, I have seen camshafts worn almost round and still no noise. You should check oil pressure and circulation, change the oil filter etc and listen to the engine it will tell you whats wrong by the speed of noise. Can you see oil if you remove the filler cap, are the rockers dry. Sometimes it can take a while to pump up hydralic lifters but I think your past that stage. I really think you have an oil pressure problem!

I had the same and found the answer was to cut them off and weld new tubes in place, It was certainly faster than hacking away at the stuck bolts and gave a chance to check the chassis at the same time.

It could be air but why only the left quadrant, is there free movement in the clutch pedal = air I think the fault might be in the refitment of the gear lever it's certainly worth a good look, If yours is an LT77 have a look at the reverse light switch and it's adjustment.

As above find a good RAVE cd but, do you have any method of return, if you can for any favour do exactly that. You can use the Bmw car engine but the fuel injection pump wont speak to the Land Rover electrickery so you need to swap the pump over, be sure you get the right engine as some of the early blocks have a different pump mounting. Engine can come out leaving the box in place, it's heavy! Almost every nut and bolt sump, oil pick-up etc, needs to be swapped over. You can also use the Omega engine and some of their pumps will speak but you need to check the pump numbers then there could be power issues as above.

My recommendation would be a Disc 2, tried the P38 and most of it's faults. If you find a good one they can be superb but I didnt and paid the price.

While your point is well made, The brakes on any R/R should be able to stop on a sixpence, if it cant something is wrong.

Buy the best one you can find, one which includes a timer, what the box does is to allow you to run the heater plugs when the engine is hot, it gives a better chance to start the engine. Be aware that it might not be a total fix and that it might disguise another problem, are you sure that the in-tank fuel pump is working, it's quite common for them to fail, the clue is that it will start well with a full tank but below 3/4 starting is a sob! Is the starter motor in good condition, if it's a bit slow starting can be a sob. I had the same (as do many)in that it wouldnt start hot, my fault was the injection pump. Fair to say that someone else owns it now, strangly enough when told what the fault was the buyer was happy to continue.

THINK so, you will need-- master cylinder, servo,(somewhere to lake vacuum from)Possibly the front rear bias valve, T piece for rear axle and some re-plumbing of the feed to the rear axle pipe-work. Have a good look at your Disco as that's what you want to replicate.

Faulty injection pumps usually give starting problems but can cause and do cause crazy symptoms but will not give a meaningfull fault code. the temperature sensor at the front of the inlet manifold measures inlet air temperature, it could be but, you will go around in circles trying to trace any fault on a P38 in this way, are you sure the code reader is giving real results.

I think you might have already found the fault, try replacing the temperature sensor you are unpluging, I think the it's sending wrong signals and causing overfuling on start-up hence a rise in revs before either it settles down or the EMC compansates for the fault. Worth a shot.

Well they do look a little beyond their sell-by date, while they might last for a while if one burst's you will feel foolish I would budget for replacement sooner rather than later but wouldnt panic this week unless your use is hard.

You could try disconnecting the R/F ariel but have a look hear http://www.rangerovers.net/newrremedies.htm

The lower seal can be replaced but is likley to fail again, you would be better to buy a good recon unit.

Are you sure you timmed it on number one, the leading cylinder on a V8.

Have you tried a hose to blow the system clear, if you do remember that mains water will be at a higher pressure that your engine is used to so try flow rather than pressure. Does the engine want to boil or could the sensor be at fault.

The BMW engine can be noisy if the oils hasnt been changed for a while, it uses hydraulic cam followers but the cam can wear, my one makes more noise that I would like, the can isnt worn and the oil is clean so no reason found yet.

The auto box is not really suitable as the gearing is different. You need the 200tdi engine mounts and must weld them to your chassis. The bulkhead / firewall needs to be "altered" a bit if you want to remove the rocker cover ever again, it's not much and I did mine with a persuader bar I converted my classic and really wish I had left well alone and my one has a manual box.

Just to be sure it's worth checking the firing order again.

Try this link http://www.landroverspares.co.uk/category.html?id=93, got to be worth a call. Cant be such a bad job to use the 2 door panel.

My 83 RRC has exposed hinges, I believe they were only made for 3 years in the four door version.

I'd expect the mounts to be different and know the doors are, the exposed hinge bonet has cut-out's at the back for the hinge. I think the exposed hinge panels are becomming quite rare now.

Thanks Bowie69, I think your spot-on, wonder if the problem is a loose conection there.

From memory so could be complete nonsense Was there a relay or solenoid under the passenger seat which does something to the supply or control of the ABS modulator.

Is this a conversion from a V8. Try a jump lead from a solid point on the engine to the chassis to prove earthing, if that does nothing, jump lead from engine to negative of the battery. Also check the 12v feed to the starter solenoid.