sheltie50

When I did much the same job on my RRC I tack welded angle iron to the a,b,and c posts to keep everything in place and did only one side at a time, it worked well and nothing moved, doors off of course, you need to cut the bottom of the b post off to slide the sill in and as said when its done you know what youve got in there.

93, are you sure it's an LT77 which way do you move the lever to find reverse, the 380 is to you and back and the 77 is away and forward. I tried to fit a 200 to my V8 77 only to find that the input shaft was different so had to use a gearbox from a 200.

The P38 is very very slow from cold, the fact that it bites in the low box suggests to me that it's OK (I stand to be corrected on that) you could smell the gearbox oil, if there is a smell of burning change it, if fact change it anyway, it could also be a filter in the box, does it rev but not move or just doesn't move well remembering that it will be embarrassingly slow when cold. they all do that sir !! Could you have a sticking brake/parking brake.

Yes indeed, if you have stronger springs fitted and good dampers you can remove the self level unit from the ball joint and from the chassis but the A frame bars must stay in place.

Might also be worth checking the 12v feed to the alternator (exciter) I've seen a few where the cable has been damaged or suffered heat from the engine, if it's bad the alternator wont charge well if at all, bad earthing come to mind.

I bought new wings for my older Range Rover and they didn't have the side repeater lights either while the original ones did, I chose not to fit them and have had no trouble with that at mot times, plenty other things to chose from, it is likely that they are a legal requirement as they were an original fitment and of course there is the safety concern of being seen to be turning right or left, I would fit them and perhaps will before it hits the road again.

I wonder what condition the plug which came out was in and what the rest look like, as has been said it could be that the replacements are flawed or just too small, are you sure your getting them good and tight using a blunt thingy and hammer. If all thats ok I would suggest that the system is being pressurised and that does suggest a head gasket problem, do they blow out quickly or does it give you time to check for bubbles in the expansion bottle or pressure in the hose's.

Are you sure it's the clutch, Disco's have a reputation for the acuating pin to wear through the fork, just a thought!

All looks familiar, just the same as my 1983 one, you can buy many repair panels which will reduce the time fabricating repair sections. I did my one almost 15 years ago and still have it, in garage just now but thats more to do with laziness ;-} You will get peedoff at times and think "it's too much" but if you stick at it and do a good job it will last for as long as you look after it. I went down the route of buying a P38 and not that it's a bad thing the classic was a better thing for my needs, I would rebuild it again and plan to get it out before the winter sets in.

What about the Dizzy cap, have you changed it? if its mad by someothercarpartmaker it might help you to try a good quality part.

Had the same problem on my classic, fitted several before they would last, I wonder about polybush or is this a clue about the condition od other bushing? I changed every bit of rubber on my front axle and have had no trouble so far. Anyone

Something on your suspension / steering is moving, you should find and rectify if before driving it at speed if it's having this effect. It might be the rubber bushing in your suspension front or rear and it could be serious wear in the steering swivel bushes etc, it must be like driving a canal boat in the North Sea Give the R/R a wiggle from the front and back you might hear the problem, try moving the road wheels forward and back, check for unusual tyre wear etc. Check the Panhard rod bushes etc. It might be a sticking brake on the right side, if it is the wheel it could be very hot to touch after a run, either way this one needs to be sorted before going very far.

Just dropped in from the other side ;-} wonder if this could be the same or close enough to the Range Rover Classic, I think they might be but please check for yourself, if so they are readily available from aftermarket suppliers, get a copy of LRO or search the web, its all out there. If you have found corrosion have you checked around the rest, rear xmember, rear floor etc, I have recently done a repair which started out as a rear floor but ended up with major fab work.

Welcome, I'm another muppet , maybe we should start a club ! also an ex Vauxhall man, Vx490 1973 What condition is your battery in, if it's even a little off and slow to spin it will be a sob to start. I have had and still have a simillar problem, there are many things which can cause this but if yours runs ok when it finally does start and performance is ok or just a little down it could be the lift pump in the fuel tank, can you hear it. you should just hear it as you switch onto preheat position but it shoulnt be noisy, maybe just a hum. Check the injector return pipes ( the little rubbes ones) for any sign of leakage and they should be replaced. Maybe you should have a diagnostic test done by a well equiped and experianced garage, it should give you the fault code In my case it's the injection pump and I must replace it soon.

White smoke could well be lack of fuel, can you hear the in-tank lift pump running with the key in the on (before the start) position if it's not working "they do fail" it will take quite a lot of cranking to start, the injection pump can suck enough to run the engine when started. The BMW engine alters glow plug on time, dependant on temperature so when cold you get a full heat but warn their only on for a few seconds if at all, a good hot start fix will advance the timing and allow full time heat of glow plugs, it should have a timer built in so the timing can return to normal after a few seconds running, cheaper ones will ruin fuel consumption. Iv'e fitted a switch to mine so that I can switch it off for mainanance / diagnostic work. Try a search on this forum and on the net for starting problem or hot start problem there's a lot of info on it out there. Another thought might be the battery condition, is it spinning fast enough. Sorry johnfpd wev'e sort of unintentionally hijacked this thread how are you getting on, any progress.

Have you checked the link between the steering colum and the steering box if the uj's are seized or stiff the steering will be lumpy and might not want to self correct, Also get someone to wiggle the car from the front and rear corners to see if it all nice and tight or wobbling around, you might hear the problem screaming for you to stop, there will be a little movement but if should manly be in the tyres only.

Play at 6 &12 could just be wheel bearing adjustment but you need to check the swivel hub bearings as well, same test with someone watching to see where the movement is. Question for others, was this also symptomatic of a seized viscous or centre diff, prob not in your case but, knowledge = wealth.

Play at 6 &12 could just be wheel bearing adjustment but you need to check the swivel hub bearings as well, same test with someone watching to see where the movement is. Question for others, was this also symptomatic of a seized viscous or centre diff, prob not in your case but, knowledge = wealth.

There are many things which can cause poor starting on the BMW engine, if you are going to do anything on a P38 you really need a good copy of the RAVE cd, and posibly a diagnostic test by a good and experianced l/r garage, this might save you months of trying this and that. I doubt if the relay will be a the problem, is it bad to start hot and cold or just hot, is there a difference with a full or empty tank, there are many owners with the same problem, try a search on the net it's all in there, mine was is a sod to start hot or cold and I have proven that it's the injector pump, The relay is in the black box behind the battery in there as also the ECM, if you plan to remove either you should disconect the battery, I dropped my ECM and blew it up when it touched the live post. it does mean you need to reset windows etc if you disconect the battery.

I assume they started with the simple things like Heater plug relay, it's in thw same box as the ECM, even it they have 10 weeks is P taking, although their obviously caring if they just given you a car on loan, if it stands much longer there will be other problems, stuck brakes etc, Why would they change the timing chain and injection pump if the heater plugs are not working, more detail required, methinks. I had to change the access plug in the passenger footwell before comms would work, the socket has a habit of corroding badly.

Have a good look at the chassis xmember while your in there, it's all so much easier with the floor out, it's a good chance to do anything and everything.

If it comes and goes as speed increases it could just be wheel balancing, if it comes in and needs braking or slowing down severely it could be the steering damper but again there's a lot which can cause a good shimmy have a look for tiered bushes, worn shocks, wear in steering joints and swivel bush hub bearings. even something worn in the rear suspension can cause it and it can be a sod to find. have a good look around sure youl find it.

Do your one have a nut holding the shock on and a single bust or the older with 2 piece bush, the newer one as said soap and vice or scoket and G cramp, older one can be tight and requires a good shove the get the pin in.

I think your right, certainly on the older axle that was the case, are you sure its the wheel bearing and not the swivels.

I think the 200 goes straight in but you need to check the bellhousing and gearbox input shaft also the spigot bearing in the crank end, might need to weld on 200 engine mounts, VM when treated right! can be a good engine but many people have had trouble when it goes wrong. In a boat or larger plant the engine doesnt rev so much or vary it speed and temperature so quickly, could that be the cause, really dont know.