mickeyw

I am having similar thoughts to you. My 3.9 is in a 110, and with all silencing provided by Tdci pipes, it's not sounding very V8-like. Downpipes are Ø2", and main pipes are Ø2.5". The main silencer is colossal! My thoughts regarding experimenting have been: Unbolt the rear section with its small silencer, and see what sort of sound I get. Replace centre section with a straight through pipe sold by Paddocks, thus leaving the quite small rear silencer, and see what sort of sound I get. This of course may waste precious £ on something that may end up being a bad idea. That said, it could be a good basis for adding my own choice of silencer Other thoughts - I recently saw a V8 challenge truck with quite a short system, and just a single, modest sized box that gives an idle sound that is pretty discreet, but definitely a V8. When worked harder, it sounds lovely without being obnoxious or OTT. Unfortunately I didn't get to ask the owner what the spec was of the silencer. There are many types of exhaust silencer, and I'm still reading up on each. Anyway, I think my objective will be reached by using the correct type and size of silencer, rather than removing one or more altogether.

I run a single Numax C-XV31MF. It handles everything including a winch. Alternator is 120A.

Nige usually supplies a CD with software and a safe spark & fuel map.

It would need to be immaculate inside and rock solid underneath for that money IMO. Granted it's low miles, but it's 12 years old. It must have stood around a lot, so I'd be looking for rot. D2 chassis do like to do this, especially at the rear.

Without doubt, genuine parts last a long time. I've just fitted a genuine parts 1995 spec V8 Disco downpipes to my 110. Whether these pipes are 20 years old or not, I cannot prove. They're rusty on the outside but having just cut the cats out of them I can tell you the steel is still very solid. I don't know many folk that would fit an expensive genuine exhaust to an older truck. By contrast the generic aftermarket pipes on my RRC tended to only last 2-3 years before a silencer falls off. It's a shame there isn't something inbetween quality-wise.

This age of roof was prior to the rear facing roof vents. I'm sure they only featured for two or three years... I never previously understood their purpose. The sliding rear windows are plenty drafty though. It does surprise me that the air is drawn all the way forwards when travelling at speed. Don't Td5/Puma vehicles have this problem? I can't imagine LR could have ignored such a problem. Si, your experiences are good to hear, thanks. I think this weekend may see a mod to the tailpipe. I shall report back. I thought about your plugin elbow to test the idea, but I wonder how much difference it might make with the exit being behind vs ahead of the rear face of the body, i.e.not accurately representing the final outcome.

Mo that's the same pipe I had on my V8 90. Never any fumes issues with that.

Just to illustrate the current tail pipe: I am sure a cut part way round the last bend would allow the end to be rotated and welded back on facing the rear corner/sideways. Got to be worth a try....

Yes I can hear you all laughing - aerodynamics of a house brick, what? Anyway, the purpose behind this discussion - each time I open the driver's window, or the vent flaps on my old 110 V8, I am smelling excessive exhaust fumes. Granted the engine is running a little rich on petrol right now, but the fumes shouldn't come in the cab. I also get LPG exhaust fumes coming in when running on that fuel. My first thought was that there must be a leak in the exhaust system somewhere, but lying underneath the truck with engine running, and sniffing round the engine bay, I cannot hear any typical exhaust leak noises or smell any fumes. I only get the fume ingress when driving, and have the window or vents open. I am struggling to really believe this line of thought, but is there some anomally about the shape of a Defender that could be sucking exhaust fumes back to the front of the vehicle? I recall my old soft top series used to suck rain spray into the back if the rear flap was rolled up - I normally felt it on the back of my neck! The truck has a modern Puma spec exhaust system (a bit quiet, but that's not the concern here), so points rearward under the rear crossmember. Before I changed the engine, the old exhaust pointed diagonally out at the rear corner, a la 300Tdi style, and I had no issues with cabin fumes. Any thoughts?

Just gone through this exact process with my 110 and a '95 Disco engine. I have removed the factory resistor, and used the tach adapter circuit, same as Autosport Labs can supply (4 sets of diode and resistors in parallel). This is not the same as the circuit in the Megamanual (4 diodes into one Zener) but both will work fine with the 14 CUX.

Is there not a core plug behind the last bearing? When I had cam bearings replaced some years ago, they were line honed after being pressed in. This work wad done by Turners. I do believe that you can also get 'pre-finished' bearings that should be the correct size once fitted.

Spot on Mr Bowie. LPG is now talking to me I've just looked up piston stops. I would think a variation of this, using a sliding pin hooked up to a dial indicator would give a nice accurate result.

That must have been NAS models that had the R380. I don't think a V8 Defender was available to the UK market at that time. When LR stopped using the LT85 they used a version of the LT77 with the V8 for a while. (Late 80s, early 90s IIRC).

Like Bowies says MJ only runs spark, MS adds to the mix running your EFI system as well, so you can bin the engine ECU. There's a lot more wiring to do to go full MS compared with MJ. I bought my MJ ECU direct from Autosport Labs in USA. Even with postage and import duty it's a good deal cheaper than from Trigger Wheels. Brackets and hardware came from Nige, coil packs from the local breakers and EDIS-8 on fleabay. I run mostly LPG, so less interest in controlling the petrol flow

Jon - I went through the same process as you with my old 90. That was 3.9, same size tyres, HP22 (previously LT85) and started with a 1.22:1 trf box. That combo was not great to drive on country roads, as it never got a chance to lock up into top. Motorways were horrible if any hills were involved, even when running empty. I had to pull it into 3rd and rev it like mad - basically the shift points were all wrong. As you say, the auto has a higher top gear than the LT85. Changing to a 1.4:1 ratio made a phenominal difference - the truck became so much more drivable. I'd love to know how much power the auto box sucks out of the set up. The current 110 seems like a rocket compared to the 90. Same engine, same tyres, one manual, one auto. I appreciate engine health and thus available power can vary a fair bit... It's certainly very tempting to try the other ratio. Another possible, albeit more expensive option is to fit an R380, most flavours of which have a higher 5th gear, especially if like Fridge has done a D2 or P38 V8 version is used.

I've been driving hooning this around now for a week or so. but have a few thinks to resolve still. Existing issues - 1 - The tacho circuit I built with the resistors in parallel with the 1N4004s, and no Zener seems to work fine for the 14CUX, but the LPG system isn't happy with it. I shall try two things - connect the MJ tacho out to the LPG ECU, and if that doesn't work, I'll modify the tach circuit to the Zener type. 2 - Checking the timing with a strobe (yes I know the crank markings aren't the pinnacle of accuracy) got me to think I am around 6-8 degrees too advanced. I've adjusted the crank sensor as far as I can without moving the trigger wheel round to the next hole, and compensated with the MJ timing to its offset max of -5. Engine now starts much easier, and the flat spot seems to have pretty much gone. 3 - The dropping voltage on the fuel pump and relay line has been sorted by taking a new wire from the ignition switch. All is well. My research into 14 CUX and its potential error codes found me on Pistonheads, plus a few TVR forums. There is a stupendous amount of very useful 14 CUX geekery on there. I'm now assembling a Rover Gauge cable and will be interested to see what I can read from the ECU...

Hopefully this makes it a bit clearer. Item 18 on the image is part # 614585, which I believe is now obsolete. Clamp Bar, V8 twin carb L/R Petrol

This is the bracket I'm thinking of. http://www.brit-car.co.uk/shopimages/products/normal/6/614/614585.jpg Hopefully you can picture how it would fit.

Hi All, Having recently given my 110 CSW a lot more grunt (3.5 on carbs > 3.9 Efi) I'm finding it now goes through the gears rather rapidly. It'll pull away in 2nd and manages 5th quite happily at less than 30 MPH, and seems to be revving quite high by 70. The driveability of the vehicle has completely changed - no more labouring through 3rd and above. Today I towed my 12ft Ifor Williams flat bed, and even with a load of garden foliage on board, I barely knew it was there. Granted the truck was pretty unladen itself. The transfer gearing is currently the standard Defender 1.4:1, and main box is an LT85. Tyres are 255/85R16s (33" tall). So my question is - has anyone with a bigger than original V8 in their 110 opted for a 1.22:1 transfer box, and what did you think of the combination? I don't need to tow as much these days, but the occasional caravan or flat bed do crop up. A quick play on Ashcroft's gearing calculator led me to think the current gearing could be pretty optimum, but I thought I'd ask around. Ashcrofts advise that the ideal gearing gives you approx 2700 RPM @ 70 MPH, although they don't specify what engine that's for, but I assume a Tdi. My current setup gives 2831 RPM @ 70 MPH, so slightly lower geared than their ideal. Changing to 1.22:1 would move to 2453 RPM @ 70 MPH I have read all the debates in the past about gearing changes, and I realise that the 110 is a heavy beast. So I am looking for first hand experiences with V8s (3.9, 4.2, 4.6) fitted to 110s please. Expecting Mr V8Freak to stick his head up

My first V8 had a stepped (Z-shape) clip that held the dipstick tube in place. It was screwed into the top of a head bolt just like that.

OK, this made me chuckle. While having some validity, I have always found booking into an event has the unfortunate tendency to guarantee a breakdown the day before. Maybe that's just my luck...

Agree on the list thing. Break tasks down as many small items as possible, just so you get to tick a job off more easily. That's good for getting a sense of achievement. I've been struggling badly with motivation for some months, but I have achieved quite a bit at times when I'm on a high. As James has noted, family life doesn't leave a lot of time, never mind mental strength for projects. Quite often when I've got the kids to bed it's difficult to not just end of on the sofa watching TV. I hate doing that - it's such a time waster. I've barely touched my 110 in 3 weeks now - it's so close to completion, but at times seems so far. At least it's the only LR I'm working on, but there's the house, the garage workshop, the garden also after my time. Driving the eurobox is driving me nuts. I so need to get back in the 110 :|

I use 1mm slitting disks for cutting and flap disks for deburring/chamfering. No specific brand loyalty, but I find the blue flap disks (zirconium I think) far outlast the red/brown AlOx ones. Having said all that, my disk consumption has plummeted since I bought a plasma cutter, which can cleanly cut a good 8mm. I've cut through plenty of 12mm plate with 1mm disks. It takes time, but the key thing is to let the disk cut - don't force it - all that does is is reduce cutting speed, wear the abrasive faster, make more noise and kill the grinder sooner.

You will find that the shields dramatically reduce pad wear when driving on winter roads. I would keep them in place, but it depends on your usage. On the flip side they make jet washing play day mud off much harder.

I'm pretty sure that's doable Steve.