mickeyw

I know of two 6x4 Defender 150s that are kitted out for air braked trailers. Air supply is from a Sanden air conditioning compressor, which also provides air for the air suspension on the second and third axles. As far as I know it all works well.

Either scenario you mention could be fine, if as you suggest it was done before the critical date. I'd be checking more to ensure it isn't actually a bog standard Defender chassis! Are the chassis mods fairly apparent?

Ditto Marine Blue.

That could be something to do when I have learned more about trimming. I've no idea quite how you would work vinyl over the depth of profile involved. Obviously a stretchy material would be essential. Also working the material into the embossing would take some care to make it look good. I have restuck those those clips in the past on the 90 I used to own. They never stayed stuck for long, but I can't say the security of trim panel seemed any worse for not having them fitted. Indeed Geoff, the surface would need keying. Strangely I have just found that SP Global Parts are selling these trim panels on the bay at a relatively agreeable price. Part numbers are MTC8706 and MTC8707. However looking at the enlarged picture the quality of the embossing looks absolutely shocking, so I won't be buying those, British made or not! Craddocks are selling for even less, but the picture isn't good enough to see the quality. They say the items are non-genuine. Paddocks have items they are referring to as OEM. Twice the price, but no picture There can't be many companies making these low demand parts, so I should think there may be a few genuine items knocking around somewhere, then there will be some cheaper copies of questionable quality all made in the same place. I shall source a fibre glass repair kit to reinforce the backing. Halfrauds have a kit for not too much. I'll need to clamp the flat areas to a board first, otherwise I can see it will be easy to make a right carp job of it.

The front lift-handle type door trims in my early 110 have seen a good deal of abuse in previous ownership. When I bought the truck the trim panels weren't fitted, and I did wonder if some of the damage had been caused in storage. I know replacements are available, but at a rather eye watering price, and I believe they are not of great quality. I am considering ways to repair what I have. I am not expecting to achieve anything pristine, just tidy them up a bit, and prevent them falling to bits any further. Most of the damage seems to be around the door lock area. Maybe some 'erbert tried to access the locks without knowing how, or having the tools to remove the trim, to deal with a jammed lock........or even steal the truck! Anyhow, these items are not constructed like the later push button trims. The backing is a fairly hard but thin material, possibly moulded, possibly compressed, and covered in a vinyl facing. As tough as the backing is, the damage has caused it to crack in many places. To restore any of the rigidity it needs, I need to come up with a way to bond it back together. Then the vinyl facing can be glued back in place. My only thought so far is to add a few layers of fibre glass mat and resin to the back. Over to you guys for alternative suggestions please.

Crikey, when you said fine I was thinking 1000 or 1200 grit. 200 or 320 is fine for removing the muck of the bores though. Make sure you use a lubricant to stop the paper clogging. WD40, paraffin or similar is ideal for this. Then wipe the bores clean with some paper towel or soft rag.

I couldn't get there today, but it sure was a nice day for perusing other folks cast-offs.

That looks kinda cool. How many does it sleep, 1 or 2?

I assume yours is a vee belted engine, rather than a serpentine type? If it's the latter all you need is a simple bung.

I knew I was over thinking this. We are so lucky to have Si among us to keep it simple and economic. Big thanks Si. Simon, that is very much small enough, thank you. I see there is a 27mm version too. Note to self - must give my Googling skills a tune up. Dave, thanks ever so much for all this information. This is the kind of project that I would find immensely satisfying to make. However time and simplicity are key ruling elements in my life right now, so I think I shall keep this idea of the shelf for future enjoyment. Thank you everyone for your excellent contributions. I shall endeavour to update this thread with the final outcome, you may need to be patient though.

Dave, this is the kind of thing I had in mind, but I don't know enough yet to actually implement such a plan. I had wondered if someone would suggest Arduino, but I wasn't sure if it was overkill or not. I know there would be quite a few outputs require to run a 3 digit display The Nano version appears to be pretty compact. I agree a back-lit LCD would probably look tidier, and it would look consistent with my Td5 speedo. I'd better go and read up on them and see what is available. I fear they may work out a little large though... Al, I started off looking for very small gauges, around 25mm dia, but I haven't found anything less than 40mm. The LED bar graph is an interesting idea, but I like the idea of a digital tyre gauge more. They seem cheap enough to hack about too, hmmm.... Could you explain in more detail? How would using multiple switches achieve what I'm after? Iain, I run a Denso A/C pump as my compressor on a serpentine V8, same as I did on my last truck. You don't hear it at all, unless the engine is at tickover, then you notice the revs drop a little. I have used a T-Max compressor before, which is why I changed over to the A/C pump method. No soiled seats in my truck ya know I use the air for a set of horns that get the attention of BMW drivers after they've cut me up (drivers of other car marques do this too, but it's mainly BMWs), inflating tyres, air freespool operation, and general blow line duties. The main reason for having a dash pressure display is to show me that air is present to operate these systems. I too have a receiver mounted underneath, and I'm using a workshop compressor style switch to operate the compressor clutch. This provides adjustable shut off pressure, as well as adjustable hysteresis. They are rated for quite a few amps at 240V, so have no problem switching a mere 12V for the clutch. All the above kit is tucked away out of sight, hence my wish to have a pressure indicator in the cab - but like I said, I'd like it compact as discreet.

I think I have mentioned this somewhere before, but on my first OBA install I used a plumbing copper check valve. Something like this linky. I screwed this into a homemade ally adapter, with a port upstream of it, and connected that to the unloader valve.

Something for the collective of electronics genii on here I hope. I am installing an on-board air system on my 110, and I want a dashboard pressure display. I do not wish to use a bulky 52mm gauge, as I'm trying to keep the dash reasonably simple and uncluttered. I a not fan of dash consoles from the likes of Raptor et al, which is why I am aiming for a fairly discreet solution. I had an idea to use a very small 3 way 7-segment display that I could build into the standard instrument binnacle. This is the kind of information that will only need occasional viewing, so doesn't need high visibility. Now my geek level is very low, so such a plan will need a fair bit of help to design. What I am good at is soldering small components onto PCBs and Veroboard, so at least assembling a circuit shouldn't be a problem. To lay down a few working figures, I shall be to looking to show values of 0-110 PSI. The workings of this need to be as compact as possible, and it may be useful to have the display divorced from the main board. I have found a pressure transducer that has a 1-1.2 MPa (0-168 PSI) working range, and outputs 0.5 to 4.5 VDC, so a 4V total indicating range. My understanding of the steps required are as follows: Take output voltage from the transducer, and convert to PSI. 4 volts split over 168 PSI = 0.0238V/PSI, plus the 0.5V initial voltage Send the output to the display via a 7-segment driver. No idea how to do this Now I realise this is pretty a basic interpretation of the operation, but it is about as far as my knowledge of electronics goes. Over to you guys for comments please. What components/devices/methods would be appropriate for this purpose? TIA

Funnily enough I was talking to a mate last weekend, and he mentioned that he'd done exactly what you're proposing, but many years ago. I daresay it's the kind of poor man's bodge of yesteryear that folk just did without worrying too much. These days there always seems to be a reason not to do such things. Perhaps it's age related wisdom ?

There are sellers of the correct sized self-tappers in stainless on the bay. Agreed the blue box door window channels aren't much good. They fit OK, but the exposed steel core starts to rust at each end pretty quickly. Unless genuine ones have a zinc plated steel section, I can't see they would fare much better...unless perhaps the ends are moulded over.

Phil, you are now making me doubt myself. The picture in my mind is now not so clear. I'm wondering if there is a good picture in my paper green bible - I'll try to remember to look later. The rearward sloping part of the canister support brackets have fuel lines clipped against them. I am pretty sure the heater hoses and pipes run under the canister, so the brackets are stepping over the hoses. I now can't picture how that bracket fits in there

I had the same thing with a winch motor negative. I couldn't see anything physically wrong with the connector or crimp, but chopping a couple of inches off the cable, and crimping on a lug made a world of difference.

This echoes my experience of cheap hinges from Paddocks (most likely B******t) a few years back.

Item 7 in the first pic fixes to the vertical section of item 7 in the second pic.

There are lots of cheap air suspension receivers on eblag, from big 4x4s like Audi, BMW, VW etc. I however had a 2kg spent extinguisher to repurpose ?

Wow, a conversation about welding injuries that doesn't involve our treasurer. Maybe he's in hospital Glad you are getting to grips with this Stephen. MIGs are very useful tools.

Could you expand on this Pete? I am aware that there are single piece and two piece rear cappings Obviously there would be different parts for a 110 SW vs 110 truck cab. With a 90 there is a difference at the front dependant on whether you have a centre bulkhead fitted, but all variants have the holes at the rear corner to secure the roof.

Having done the Defender production line tour a couple of weeks ago, we did see certain items having holes created according to build spec. However this is not just a missing hole, as you need to weld the clamping tube in too. Such a feature would not really fit with any variation in built without there being two separate part numbers. Even on a truck cab model you still get the holes in the capping in case want to add a tilt frame.

But when you have ordered a galvanised part, the last thing you want to have to do is chop a hole in it, and hence lose the benefit of it being galvanised!!!

There's a guy I know getting ready to install this engine in his Whitbread buggy