mickeyw

Exhaust. I fitted a system that Jake Wright used to make for this purpose. It ran the same path as the 4 cyl system, barring the extra piece from the right bank to the Y. It was beautifully tucked up around the gearbox cross member, and away from harm. It used 3.5 RRC type manifolds, and was larger bore with a single well flowing silencer. From outside you'd think all looked standard 4cyl, but a second look and you'd notice the tail pipe was a bit bigger than normal. Acoustics were fairly reserved at tickover and light load, but open her up and audio pleasure began Spigot bearing. Hoggy is right - there'd be no spigot bearing left if the gbox shaft was left standard.

Trip down memory lane time To remove the input shaft you need to undo the four big bolts holding the bellhousing to the gearbox. The shaft and bellhousing come away together. There may be a circlip involved too, I can't remember. You don't need to dismantle to whole box though, but care is required during reassembly. To reduce the shaft diameter I cylindrically ground it to the same diameter as the Range Rover part. The surface wants to be pretty good, as does the size. I used a RRC flywheel but made a spigot bearing with the same diameter as the RRC, but added some extra length to the rear, as the spigot bearing only just reached into a standard one. I think the only reason to cut the crank is if you don't reduce the spigot diameter. Just re-read your post and note you have a 2A box. Mine was a 3 - I can't think they're that different.... I also used a Series 3 petrol clutch assembly, and re-drilled the RRC flywheel to suit the smaller PCD fixing screws and locating dowels. As for foot well surgery, it very much depends on what adapter you have used and how far forward or back the engine sits. I squared off the foot wells both sides. I used a home made adapter onto the S3 box. The box sat in its factory position. I had to take a small notch out of the front cross member to clear the pulleys. I sat the engine low enough that the crank pulley lined up with the starting handle hole in the bumper and cross member. Hope this helps, I did my conversion 20 odd years ago, so the memory may not be 100% Oh and welcome to the forum.

I downloaded this and made my own loom. The connector is NLA, but it's possible to bodge custom build something to suit. A very worthwhile tool that costs very little. You can't do a whole lot with it, but it's what you can see with it that is most useful, hence a valuable diagnostic tool. All error codes can be read, so if you have an iffy sensor somewhere this will certainly make finding it easier. Edit to add that I found a huge amount of knowledge on the 14CUX on TVR forums, all the way to custom mapping the Lucas ECU

265/75x16 was offered on the Defender 90, if fitted to a 16" x 7" Freestyle alloy. 110s were only offered by LR with the 235/85x16, and generally fitted on a Boost alloy (still 16" x 7") My guess is that a 110 would lose an unacceptable degree of steering lock if the wider tyre was fitted. Note that both these tyres measure up at approx 31" tall. Just to add that the poverty spec for Defender was 205R16 (approx 29" tall) for a 90 and 7.50R16 on a 110, both on 16" x 5.5" steel rims

I always fitted my Brownchurch rack single handed on the 90, usually because there wasn't anyone around to help. It's not so much heavy as awkward and unweildy, and requires a certain knack The 110 rack is still doable solo, but more of a struggle. Also the 110 having alpine windows makes it trickier to slide along the gutters.

And despite all this I struggled to sell a perfectly good galvanized rack for a 110 last year. I got £100 in the end. Some folk seemed to think a new one could be purchased for that money - I sent them on their way. Some years ago I only managed £60 for a genuine galved Brownchurch model for a 90.

And farm supply type places tend to be very reasonable prices too.

That vendor seem to have a lot of 'healthily priced' items. Many appear to be New Old Stock, but otherwise generally unobtainable. This is just the start of this kind of mercenary behaviour I suspect.

Not run by the same person now I presume?

In my case I was fitting D1 3.9 front pipes to my 110. A simple issue of interference between the cat and the loom running into the chassis would have resulted in a de-smoked loom This came out So this didn't melt. See how close the loom is. The cat on the RHS is very tall so as the clear the prop. Added this in place of the cat

I used a similar K&N ?

I like the sound of a battery powered grease gun....but eeek at the price!!!

This is almost what I did.I actually fitted the pipe onto the truck to make the cut during my engine swap. Cut out with recip saw, and butt weld a plain section in. I measured up the new piece of pipe with it still in place, tacked it in then removed it to fully weld. This way you can be sure your de-catted pipe will still line up perfectly ? As I was chopping V8 pipes, doing one side at a time meant a few fittings and removals.

Interesting comments re panhard rod fitment. This was one area I used to go through std bushes at a rate of knots. The panhard Polybushes outlasted everything else while having PAS fluid dumped on the O/S one every so often.

I had a full set of genuine Polybushes on my 90 for 12 years before I had to replace one. I had the firm red at the axles and blue at the chassis to permit greater flexing. 12 years on a set of bushes is good IMO, and that was with plenty of off roading and towing. As you might had guessed, I'm a fan of these, but many here are not.

CATS - end of. My mum used to have the neighbours' two cats that liked to sleep in her hay barn. She never had any rat, mouse or rabbit problems on the farm until those cats passed away.

sounds like a prefectly valid excuse to me. That is of course assuming the lane is in good repair. A green lane is a public road, but given that you won't be driving at normal road speeds does that route still represent a saving of time? Consider that it'll likely single track which will take time if you need to pass anyone. Also does the lane serve a farm, or pass close to houses that you may upset by daily use? Can its surface sustain daily use without being damaged? Green lanes need responsible use. They are precious resources that have armies of folk trying to stop us using them, so just make sure you don't give them additional ammunition against us.

Mavis Beacon! How old

Wow! The Landrover Workshop site has evolved enormously since I last looked.

I appreciate you bled the air from the fuel filter head, but has the filter itself been changed recently. Whenever I have this kind of problem with tractors, a new filter is the usual fix.

I was thinking do away with the existing lower flaps and control flow further upstream. Might do a doodle later if I get a moment.

Expanding foam will eventually get wet and 'orrible. On my Series II V8, I used 40mm plastic waste pipe as my ducting. I built a distribution box that sat in the left corner of the dash tray, having cut a whole through the bulkhead to match a series III heater unit. The pipes ran along the dash tray and down into the footwell, feeding left and right. Another pipe ran across to feed left and right demisters. Air flow came from a 3 speed mk 2 Cavalier blower unit. I was never cold in that truck, even with the back of the full tilt rolled up.

The original blower does move a fair bit of air, but it could be controlled so much better. I've always been of the opinion that you loose one heck of a lot of heat in just warming up the uninsulated lower steel dash. To this end I lined the inside of mine with 3mm foam sheet. I am not convinced about the success of this yet, but I'm sure it must have made a bit of difference. The other thoughts I've had have been to add ducting inside the lower dash to further minimize heat loss, and better direct the air. Of course there is a fair bit to this, as you'd need to control up to screen or footwells with something other than the standard method Ralph has shown above.

How about a second set of wipers, on the inside?

I used to use my 88" V8 and the 2.25 petrol model I owned before that for a fair bit of heavy towing, and never broke anything. Other LRs inc a 101, a Triumph Spitfire full of spares (surprisingly heavy), Morris Marina, vintage tractors and banger cars were among the loads moved. As others have already said, it's how you drive that will make the difference. Good maintenance helps too - good clean transmission oil, as opposed to insufficient/old dirty will definitely help. My experience was that it was the drum brakes that were the weak link, especially on A roads with endless roundabouts. Although I had substantially upgraded my brakes, they would overheat and fade rapidly. I dare say that had the trailer's own brakes been in better repair, this would have been far less of an issue; as would easing off the speed a bit earlier.