mickeyw

I have a temporary box thanks. I also came across my old box that was leaking at the bottom of the sector shaft. Might make one seal kit fix both boxes, depends how the first one works out

Yesterday I found some good photos of someones else's seal replacement job on here

OK, seal kit is ordered, STC2847 is the number. I prised out the seals last night, the shaft has a discolouring where the seal runs but there is no discernable groove worn. I would prefer to polish the shaft where the seal runs but to do this properly will require disembling the box. I'll have to see what time allows.

That's exactly how my Megajolt is switched.

Well this is the first mention I have read of the event. I don't get on the other forums much and don't follow GP on FB. Interesting reading here that the team became embroiled in some kind of controversy!

We have a relatively small Howard Rotaspreader. We run it behind a 1970 Ford 3000, which is only about 50hp. I would think it would run behind a Defender without too much struggle, a series might have to work a little harder. As for nose weight, ours is pretty well balanced. Most side flingers seem to have the axle fairly mid-ships, unlike hay or tipping trailers. I have seen PTOs for series trucks, both belt drive and shaft drive. I hope you find something, keep you eyes on the bay, things do turn up from time to time. This kind of appeals to me, the Landy may not be the most efficient way to do these jobs but it's good fun if you can. I'm currently building a hydraulic log splitter that will eventually run from PTO on my V8 90

Whatever you have in mind needs to offer significant advantages over the commonly available bolt on items, that sell for £25-30. I have two different versions of this type, both still intact, although I don't venture near that many rocks. They do tend to fill up with mud but only take 5 mins to empty out. Let's see what you've got up your sleeve :-)

Looks like something Lady Penelope should be driving

Cleaned everything up this afternoon and replaced fluid then ran it up. The leak is definitely coming from the input shaft seal, but only while it is revolving. No leaks when the shaft is stationary. Do seal kits exist for this location? Or will I be better of finding another steering box?

I don't know whether there is such a figure for normal cars, but with a vehicle such as a Landrover that can tow much heavier trailers, I have found it can be the trailer hitch height that varies according to trailer size. IIRC my ancient twin axle Ifor rides best with a ball height of about 19" (482mm). An unladen twin axle can rattle horribly if the hitch is not spot on. The little tin boxes you can buy at Halfrauds need a much lower ball height.

Si you are spot on with the ashes. The company is now owned by the all guys that work there. Their previous incarnation was a very successful and long established toolmaking business, until they were bought out by some unpleasant people that destroyed all they had and sunk the company. The figures you were quoted are not in the right league with anything to do with toolmaking. Sounds like you got to talk the one of the bad guys. Robin Rapley is a nice guy to deal with, and unless they are rather busy I can't see him turning you away.

Mine is at the top, less likely to get damaged there. The strut is a lot weaker than it used to be 10 years ago. Once upon a time it would hold the door open on a moderate side slope.

Si, I am a bit late to find this thread. Have you come across Pheonix Engineering? Not far from you in Blatchford Road, they are in fact mould toolmakers, but I think they'll turn they hands to other batch work. Some of the chaps there I have worked with in the past, at other companies. No connection beyond that though. http://www.phoenixengineering2009.co.uk/index.htm

Still there just now TC

Had a quick glimpse of your build Richard, nice job! I like the idea of the pump having variable speed control, especially if you can link it to a temp sensing device.

x2 Impressive project you have here Dan. Thanks for sharing with us.

Brian, a cracked hose - now that is not something that had ocurred to me. I'll check that, one union is wet, but it's the low pressure one from the reservoir Barry there's nowt above the steering box on my V8 that could leak. Def PAS fluid, as the level in the reservoir drops noticeably after sustained oil drips off the drop arm.

I was under my Ninety at the weekend fitting a steering guard. I wound the steering from lock to lock to get better access with the rattle run, when I noticed a significant amount of fluid dripping from the drop arm. It appears to be running down the inside of the chassis rail, and the outside to a lesser degree. I can't quite determine to origin of the leak, but it's fairly significant. The hose from the reservoir to the box looked at bit wet, but not that wet. I checked the 3 hose unions in the top of the box are secure, all OK there. I have tried holding the box on full lock for just a second to see it it was any worse than when just under load between the lock limits, but not easy to see on my own though. As the oil is running down the side of the chassis I am guessing it must be coming from the input shaft area, short of the box having a hole in it nearby There is no detectable play or slack in any of the shafts. I topped up the reservoir (plastic type) as the level was below the dipstick. I also noticed the fluid was a rather brownish colour, and has a metallic tint to it. Now before I rush into fluid replacement I am wondering the likely origin of the metallic particles. What is disintegrating? Two choices really - pump or steering box. I'm erring towards the box, as that is what is leaking. Can any of you offer the benefit of your experiences please? Any known areas of failure? I am running 255/85x16 MTs on modulars, so although they may impose a greater load than standard wheels and tyres, it must be a fairly common and not too OTT configuration.

DD - what have you just said ?!? With comments like that, you'll have Nige installing a second rad on his Eales In all seriousness though, do you have doubts that the standard pump can cope, or is it a space issue? I have only come across an electric pump on challenge trucks to continue cooling after the engine has been switched off.

Gents, Thanks for all the suggestions. Eric I am with you on the chequer plate, too slippery, also it woulld need more support than I have due to its relative lack of thickness. The grit in the varnish idea has been noted, as has the deck varnish. I would hope any flooring varnish ought to be pretty hard wearing. In fact I remember than I painted my bedroom floor boards with some Ronseal 'diamond hard' or similar varnish. Could also be worth a go.

Sounds like a good plan to me. Now looks forward to more late nights gawking at some great builds

FAR TOO MUCH IMO! I marvell with envy at the engineering ability some on here have, not to mention the imagination and ingenuity required to create such beasts. I am thinking back to the Flying Spanners' 'Mouse' build - that was a real eye opener for me and a joy to read. My contribution to such threads would be limited to 'Wow!'

Some great pictures there Andre. Looks like you had an amazing trip.

I hate posting from my phone or tablet. The predictive errors drive me mad, not to mention how long it takes! So yes, Nige - use a ferking computer pleeeease

The bit the torque converter drives will also be a different length too. Sorry for such non tech references, its been a long day