mickeyw

Ah ha! Mikey I have problems with the Wipac light units. TBH I was under the impression that BP now owned the Wipac brand (bit of a shame, as it used to be a good name). I have Wipac branded NAS/Td5 style rear fog and reverse light units. The bulb is such a loose fit in the holder, I ended up modifying it to improve the fit.

Yes I know the stuff, and not sure where to get any though. What sort of £ per sheet BTW?

Hi all, hope this isn't too O/T... I'm replacing the floor on my ancient Ifor Williams flat bed trailer. What's on there is 3/4" ply and was perfectly strong enough to carry a Landy before it rotted out. I've bought new WPB ply, but I'm wondering what to preserve it with. The old floor had a water based shed n fence paint on it but it didn't last long with all the wear and abrasion a trailer floor sees. Can anyone suggest a product that won't attack the glue in the ply? I was considering Sikkens Cetol plus, as my shed was coated with that 10 years ago and still looks good, just not sure about solvents. I also wondered about decking preservative, as that I'd think that would take a fair bit of wear. Your thoughts please gents?

Del, and what was your problem first time? I had a 3.5 in my 88, I just had a standard Series 3 rad and expansion bottle and saw no cooling trouble at all. The truck worked hard with heavy trailers and still kept its cool.

Was just thinking I needed to read something entertaining. Your posts always fit the bill perfectly Jeff, Cheeky darned rodent, shame it didn't get fried when the electricity escaped! Although I'm sure you got a bigger kick out of this style of ending.

Washer hose will be available at your local motor factors, in whatever length you want, and possibly with a choice of bores. And it won't cost anywhere remotely near £40! Edit: Or even here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DNC101720-land-rover-washer-pipe-meter-/261151776243

Or see if you can find a loverly quiet 2nd hand Hydrovane on that well known auction site

My mistake re the bolt positions - I was thinking of the front swivels, they have their orientation determined by that method. Too early and no enough coffee, sorry for adding confusion.

I feel sure the bolts are spaced in a way that prevents the stub being fitted in more than one position.

Eric, you tickle my ribs (pun intended) if you think a ribless roof won't leak just like a ribbed one All 90/110/Defender roofs have seams in similar places, and Landrover was never especially good at assembling the component parts with sufficient sealant. The ribs are spot welded to the top of the roof. The first 'ribless' versions do actually have ribs, they're just on the inside , and not as strong as the ones on the outside. This only really matters if you like standing on top of your Landy The most recent (Td5 onward I think) roofs have minimal pressed in stiffening ribs, and I am unsure whether they are in fact of one-piece construction. Not sure I'd want to stand on one of these. But probably the second most common source of water in a Landy is condensation. If you don't have a good headlining you will still get rained on each time you go round a corner, especially on a cold day when the ice on the inside is slowly thawing

If we are doing pedant type stuff... First they were badged One-ten and Ninety, later on (around G reg-ish?) they were badged 110 and 90, prior to ther Defender name appearing to coincide with the arrival of the Tdi engine. Oh and lift handle doors ran until C-reg trucks, like mine

:hysterical:

You in the right place Eric. You have bought one of the better models (the early 90s and 110s), before the Defender brand name came along

You can buy boxes like this from RS Components, check out http://uk.rs-online.com/web/

Most of us on here are dealing with Landrover starter motor cables, and upto larger sizes required for winch power cables. IMO, crimping is quicker and cleaner than soldering, and possibly a less skilled task to achieve. It is also the OEM method employed these days. Also there is the benefit of being able to re-terminate a cable with minimal slack without removing it from the car. Few people today have the huge old-fashioned chunk-of-copper-on-a-stick type soldering irons that would cope well with this job, which leaves heavy soldering down to a blow torch of some kind. I prefer not to have to use a blow torch unless I can hold things securely in a vice. I am not knocking the mechanical strength of a soldered joint!

Yes, another ebay hydraulic crimper success story here. It's also very good for crimping ignition lead terminals.

Or his mobile: Robert Day @ Halleys of Surrey 07477 599352 Give him a call, very helpful chap. Also info@halleysofsurrey.com

Clearly I am not the only one thinking about what injuries could be incurred in the solving of this wee problem

I have an 'acoustic box' i built for this purpose. It's where a cubby box would be, so speakers face outward from the box. The 6x9s run off an amp mounted on the bulkhead behind the seats. Certainly gives plenty of dB.

Depends entirely on what speakers you have.

Ditto ^^^ One wooden spacer (10mm) on driver side, two on pass side. Shame you can't fit something better (bigger) in there

I have to agree with Jason. Even the difference in fuel costs can tot up to quite a saving, esp if most if your miles are in the more frugal car. It can easily pay for tax and insurance for your 'toy' car.

Haha, this is not uncommon. If water comes over the wing top and through the intake grille, it will steam up to some extent. However, there is a drain valve in the plastic heater duct beneath the wing top, check this is not blocked. Rain water should be able to escape this way, obviously a wave over the bonnet will overwhelm it. Also check the foam gasket between the above duct and the heater box is present and intact. If it is crumbling or missing you will be drawing air from the engine bay, so any water hitting the exhaust will fill the engine bay with steam and your heater will suck it all in. Also it's not a great idea pumping engine bay fumes into the cabin

That is why I am asking if anyone knows for sure

Ross I can't see such an item on their site.