mickeyw

Drawings here. Enjoy Oil Feed Tube.PDF Self centering drive.PDF Pump Drive Dog.PDF

An alternative is to use the pump from an Efi RRC, must be the metal tank type mind. You will need to lengthen the pickup with some fuel hose, enough to reach the bottom of the tank. The fixings and tank opening are exactly the same as the front fill Defender tanks

After all these years it's still a mystery to me

Errr, nope. He was kinda, 'oh sorry mate, I dunno what happened to it' Grrrrrrr That particular occassion I didn't know who I was lending to. One chap goes around asking if anyone has a hammer his mate can use, I thought what damage could he do to a hammer??? That reminds me of another time a lent a good mate my 12oz ball pein hammer, and he returned it with the ball end snapped off! He was apologetic, but I have plenty of hammers so it wasn't the end of the world and I let good mates get away with stuff like that. I still have that half-hammer. I keep it for throwing at those who ask to borrow tools,

Well I discovered I had already modelled the oil catcher, as well as the drive elements not shown in the picture above. Just throwing some drawings together. For the moment here are some screen grabs of what we are talking about: And Ruu, yes I'd love my impact set back please.

oops, just read this properly. Barry you only have pictures to go on. Yes, it is a piece of tube with a bung brazed in one end and the head on the other end. The side of the tube is cut away to collect oil thrown up, rather than clear another gear I believe. I was lucky enough to find a piece of stainless tube the right diameter to make mine from.

Ruu I was about to dig out the one I remade, based on your one. Looks like Barry got there first though, he doesn't sleep you know The head of this part is trapped between the PTO housing and the back of the trf box. This should prevent it drooping unless the counterbore is much deeper than the head thickness. Then there is a tang that stops it rotating so the open side faces upward. That should be sufficient. I'll measure and draw mine up (when I get to work

It also appears Terrafirma have copied come up with something remarkably similar!

Another one from Outback, looks very similar, and I believe is available through Devon 4x4. A mate has one in his 110SW, it's a bit plasticky finish but construction is pretty good.

The Britpart waterproof ones are excellent fit and very durable. There, never thought I'd say such a thing about a Britpart product

Nige, I'm puzzled. How might water get into the bores of a standing engine via the valley gasket? The pitting is a fair way down the bore, within the area contacted by the rings I would have thought. Anyway, time for an update, as I've had the other head off tonight. Initial reaction was ooh, this side isn't as bad for rust...... No.1 No.3 was at the top, No.7 nothing to worry about, and No.5 was pretty rusty, but not as bad as the other bank. Then I noticed no 5 liner is 4.5mm below the surface Oh C**p! Now I can see that a slipped liner could let water in, but I can't imagine it's possible for it to back fill to the inlet, and then into other cylinders. The engine would have been far from happy if that much water was leaking! I guess this really is the end of the road for a cheap and quick clean up and sling it back together for this engine. Bowie69 - I'd love to know where you can get top hats done for £5-600. Turners are well over a grand, which is well beyond budget.

If I borrow tools they go back in the condition they arrived in, or I will replace anything I damage. generally I'll only lend stuff to people I know to have the same habits. As people with this attitude tend to have a fair sized kit of their own, it's generally only special tools that get lent. I've had more trouble with people plain losing my tools. I lent a chap a hammer at an event once - he managed to lose it while working under his truck in a grassy field! I feel he probably just couldn't be bothered to look properly.

Errr no Barry. The engine wasn't particularly clean, which was why I jetwashed it immediately prior to checking it over. I very much doubt that quite so much water could have got in by jet washing, although it was my first thought. When I saw the extent of corrosion though I knew the water ingress wasn't recent.

I recently got hold of another serpentine 3.9 to stick in my Ninety. Its current engine is rather unwell, and I thought that a quick one-out, one-in solution would minimise time out of action. The engine I had lined up had good credentials, only it turned out to be full of brown water in the inlet ports and cylinders. The sheer quantity of water does not suggest a leak problem, but I have no idea quite how it got in there. Clearly it had been there some time though. Having removed the inlet manifold and then one of the heads I was gobsmacked to see extensive corrosion in the bores and to the valve area. The engine had been well oiled prior to decommissioning, so as well as water in the bores there was a good deal of oil, not that this had helped much. Not being one to give up on something too easily I decided to clean things up a little and find out how bad things really were. I rubbed some green Scotchbrite in the bores, then some Emery cloth with WD40 to remove the corrosion. I have only removed one head so far, but this was the worst bore on that side. As you can see there's a fair amount of pitting top the cylinder wall. There is virtually no bore wear, indicating that the engine would have been in good shape, had the rust not been present. I have yet to make any attempt to determine the depth of the pitting. Then I thought I'd have a look at the heads. Removing the valves revealed this: Now the orange sludge makes it all look a lot worse than it is. Having wiped away the sludge I bead blasted the heads of the valves. This did reveal some pitting on the faces, but I have lapped away worse damage in the past. No pictures of the cleaned valves at this stage. I have not tried to turn the engine over yet, as it's pretty obvious that such attempts will only damage the pistons more than they may or may not already be. My thoughts were to remove the crank and pistons before doing much else. So the big question - is it worth trying to salvage this lump? What do people think? I know the block could be re-bored, but this would then means new pistons and gawd knows what else, leading to silly spiralling costs. I had a vague thought that (depth dependant) it may be possible to hone out the damage and reuse the existing pistons. How much oversize can a bore be before the rings refuse to seal? I know blocks are usually re-bored at 0.010" increments, but could a thou' be removed and still be OK? Or am I being silly here? There are some good bits on this engine, the rockers are in excellent condition, the pads show very little wear. The lifters are still flat on the bottom, so maybe the cam is good too. I can't really see this yet as I haven't turned the engine. Now I have started, I feel I shall end up dismantling and inspecting further before making any decision. Does anyone have any useful comments? No remarks about diseasel engines please .

As Mr Reckless says. I've done the same on our old Ford 3000 tractor. It sees little use of the winter and the clutch is frequently stuck in the spring.

Have a look here at Turner Engineering. They are steel type, but if Turners are happy to use them I would have no concerns..

That looks nice and tidy Will have to scour the bay for reducer hoses. The occasional lpg backfire has resulted in my intake hose being repaired with gaffer tape

I renewed my Ninety with NFU last month. My renewal has gone down, which is excellent news. £275 for 3.9 auto, LPG, winch, rock sliders. That's fully comp with max NCD for me and 'er indoors, for SDP, commuting and business use too. Think the mileage limit is 5000, which is plenty for me

Hmmm, what size nut and bolt are we talking about? They make 'em pretty small you know What about pop rivets, they would also bung up a hole. I'm just wondering what your reason is to want to weld up such a small hole. Could it be that there's a large area of said small holes, rather like a paper doyley, and thus requiring a larger patch? As already mentioned, most of that area should be aluminium, and that is not widely known for being full of holes

Mike I'm glad you went through with this inspection. Not only does it mean you now have a vehicle that you know is safe and hopefully reliable too, but you also have a greater understanding of the important issues surrounding use of LPG. It sounds like whoever fitted your system didn't do a bad job in the first place. As you now know LPG installation is not difficult, but requires a good standard of workmanship. For the benefit of other readers, perhaps you wouldn't mind naming the LPG inspector/business you used? Happy cut-price motoring!

:hysterical:

Quagmire - how is your air box mounted? Have you used 50th parts?

I used the cable that came with my engine (ex Disco 1 serpentine 3.9). Runs from pedal, has the correct fitting, bends around bulkhead under windscreen, then takes another turn above the heater box before connecting to linkage similar to Quagmire's picture. I can't tell you part numbers, just what it came from and that it does fit as required.

Well done Nige. So glad you have finally got it running. Sounds great.

Offside front impact, then hit up the backside by something else. There's my guess.