mickeyw

Ah yes, Frida is very knowledgable and helpful. She obviously doesn't remember them doing mine, it was only 15-ish years ago They weren't even doing much with V8s back then. It was all 4-cyl engines (2.25 & 2.5 Ps, Ds and Tdi) at the time.

If you buy an old one, look at the speed ranges, not just how many speeds it has. Like Si's old one, my bench mounted drill (of Chinese origin) has a 16mm chuck, but the spindle could really do with going a bit slower when using big drills. We also have a Meddings pedestal drill with back gears, they give the low sprindle speed and higher torque that is needed for large bits (and 80mm hole saws) Somewhere around 100rpm is quite useful. I have a feeling the Meddings was originally 3Ph, but its design makes it pretty easy to swap the motor for single phase.

Baskets I thought the thefts had gone quiet of late. Sorry to be reading this thread.

I wish, would love to do a trip like that. Family comes first though

So you're travelling from the south of France? Go on, tell me you'll be in a series Landy

I believe the inner areas of the frame differ somewhat between the two door types. Somewhere, thought it was on here, I'm sure I recall reading of a chap who reskinned a lift handle door with a flat sheet of ally. He formed it over a wooden pattern to create the handle aperture and the 'shoulder' radius. Rather a skilled job, but anything is possible to the right person :-)

Well a 2nd hand sump is the easiest thing, it depends on your resources though If it were me I'd turn up a new boss, cut off the old and weld on the new. Job jobbed :-)

Not in your neck of the wood, but I had a set fitted to my old 3.5 by Turner Engineering. A relatively small company but quality is second to none. I have no connection, just a happy customer. They ship worldwide.

I was under the impression V8 white metal camshaft bearings were pressed in then line honed. Those in your pictures are either worn, or have been fitted very badly.

James in right, as long as this fits in with your budget of course. If you can run to genuine parts, you'll save £ in the long run.

So what if you didn't? You have just seconded them as a good option

Think I'll be popping up up the Friday to fit around various other commitments. Any one else going to be there on Friday? I'll be sure to pop into X-Eng and say hello. Hopefully I'll be in the 90, failing that it will have to be a eurobox <runs for cover> in which case I may have more to spend on things

I think you have the ideal size for a 110, especially as you are covering mainly road miles. I doubt you come across much mud in Blackheath, so road bias will be far better for noise and economy. You won't find too many green lanes that require anything more that an AT tread, if you do you shouldn't really be driving them. I have run Avon Rangemasters, General Grabber TRs on green lanes and been surprised how good they are. Both are pretty quiet on the road, last a long time, and are good for economy. The KL78 also looks like a road tyre with quite decent capability off the tarmac.

Fit standard rate springs. They will last a good number of years, so long as you fit reasonable quality parts (NOT BRITPART). I really don't know why people insist on fitting HD suspension to Landy. Unless you intend to run heavily laden, all it achieves is a less comfortable ride than you started out with, and on top of that is counter production if you want to drive off road.

Not quite sure what causes sea/motion sickness for you (no-one say 'motion' right!) but for you, is it too soft and bouncy or just far to harsh and choppy? If the former, it's likely time for new springs and/or shocks. My springs have become pretty soft, (they are at least 15 years old) and are comfortably soft at the rear end, rather Range Roverish ride. The downside is that a heavy load or trailer is rather a handful to control. If on the other hand your truck has been a victim of a heavy duty suspension or lift kit, you'd do well to return to standard springs. There are other factors such as tyre type and running pressures that will affect the ride too. It depends a lot on your intended application for your 90, do you tow or run with a heavy load? Whatever the case, it is possible to get a reasonable ride in a 90.

Check this one out

Mike, have you read this thread? Good pictures, and rather stimulating too

Mike, I make that part number to be a RRC 3.9 non-cat downpipe, which is what I used on my 3.9 in my 90. As my truck is a factory fitted V8, the engine position is further forward than some people position it when converting from a 4 cyl. However the down pipes line up rather well with the rear end of a Td5 system that happened to be available at the time. IIRC I had to chop a couple of inches of pipe out ahead of the downpipe's joint with the rear section. This gives me an exhaust note that is very civilised in the cab (except for when giving it a boot full ), but still sounds distinctly V8 from outside. My only gripe is that on one side downpipes do hang down below the chassis rails by about an inch, so can get clobbered when off-roading. Oh and yes, I had to swap to the rounded section RRC gearbox crossmember. The original V8 90 system went above the old crossmember

Same chap had a couple of Puma bodies for sale a little while ago. Something like £150 for the body and £3000 postage, but he doesn't deliver! Yes, fee dodging indeed! I notice he has no record of having previously sold one of these in his feedback. Probably went outside of eBay, if he even sold one.

Remember than in 1948 Britain had a massive capacity for manufacturing aircraft, which were mostly built from timber and alumium. When the Rover car company was looking for materials to built their new vehicle steel was in short supply, whereas we had plenty of aircraft grade ally available. Now I would imagine that materials for aircraft use would have been decent quality, so the corrosion resistance, the stress cracking resistance, and superior strength for its weight of the BB alloys would be ideal. Maybe they were even developed for that purpose, I don't know. Anyway, we know that Rover found a new application of the plentiful supply of this material in the post-war years. As for why the spec for LR panels was changed, I think it is fairly safe to say that cost was the major deciding factor. Such as high spec alloy would not have been cheap, and car manufacturers are under increasing pressure to cut costs. My only surprise it that it took as long as it did for the good quality alloys to be dropped. The quality of chassis steel has certainly had its ups and downs over the years, and well before the end of Series LR production.

The original Birmarbright alloy used in panels of series vehicles is relatively tough compared to say the panels of a 90/110/Defender. Try walking over the wingtops if you want to see the difference in strength. This is the reason my 90 has chequer plate wingtops My old SII and SIII took that treatment without sustaining any deformation! Quite when they changed the alloy I'm not sure. The difference in resistance to corrosion is quite apparent too. My 90 is covered in scabs where the paint has blistered, and not necessarily where it is next to steel. My series Landies never had any of that.

Econoseal J series connectors are what you want, see Polevolt link below. Alas they too only ship to UK currently. http://www.polevolt....Connectors.html They are made by Tyco Electronics http://www.te.com/ca...BML=10576,25076 i would imagine TE have distributors in Belgium

Eh? No X-Eng at Billing this year?

Isn't it essentially the same engine as the serpentine 3.9, but with the later tubular inlet and difference injection system? 'Thor' I believe this engine was named.