mickeyw

Barry if you need one to borrow, I have a hyd crimper just like that. Ha! Now where's that thread about lending stuff?

Welcome to the club, and LR4x4. Indeed you seem to have found a tidy unmolested example. We had a D reg TD 90 CSW in white. Sold with 141K it was on its second engine but did us well in every other way. The TD receives a great deal of snide remarks but I always felt that in a 90 it was a reasonably spritely performer, and a huge improvement over its normally aspirated predecessors. The Tdi was another great step forward for landrover, and if you ever need to replace the engine a 200Tdi is a relatively straight forward fit. As a new car to you, I'd check everything, bit by bit. Engine oil changes are vital in the TD, so I'd start there. The canister can be a right wotsit to get undone, so a tool like this used on a 1/2" drive socket extension bar is a worthwhile investment, as will be a boilersuit and some rubber gloves. Once you loosen the oil filter, the oil will do its best to run down your arm, normally inside the sleeve As already said, spend a few evenings reading through the tech archive, you will learn lots. Good luck.

Spearos, I have to agree, but this tool is for us real engineers but used in conjunction with one of these which are surprisingly cheap these days, still leaves a few more toys to be bought with your £35. The tool is a good idea though, as is this thread. My birthday is at the end of this month

I'd go for something 2nd hand, and old of a reasonable brand. It's amazing what crops up. I've just been given a 3/4" set, ratchet, t-bar, extensions etc by by next door neighbour, the sockets are marked Taiwan, which dates it rather. But it's a Kamasa set in a metal case, and I have always thought well of that name. My dad has a 1/2" Kamasa set that must be over 30 years old, we've yet to break that and it's seen quite some abuse

I think the kit referred to is only suitable for the 3 individual seats found in the 12 seat models.

Hello, and welcome to LR4x4. The pre-Puma engined Defender 110 used to be available in 12 seater or 10 seater configuration. The 12 seat layout was achieved 3 up front, 3 middle row, and 3 each side in the rear, so pretty cramped unless you're a child. The 10 seat layout was 3 up front, 3 middle row and 2 each side in the rear. Crucially the second row seats, as well as being a much more comfortable shape were moved backward by a few inches, and this made a notable improvement to adult comfort. My family have owned 2 110 Station Wagons that were the 10 seat layout (9 seats if you have a cubby box in the front). The first was a 1998 300 Tdi, and the current one is a 2006 Td5 which is currently for sale, <shameless plug> details on this thread in the for sale section of this forum. The Defender is certainly a very versatile vehicle and shruggs off most tasks asked of it with ease. My mother has been using hers for very similar tasks to yours since the car was new. And considering that it still looks very tidy. I can't see the Freelander she has replaced it with managing quite so well. Queue protests from Freelander owners on here I assume by your screen name that you're somewhere in the Rutland area, we are near Gatwick airport, so not exactly close. However if you fancied having a look we would make you very welcome

You may even want some creature comforts in there too. A kettle for making tea, a fridge for keeping milk/beers in, regular delivery of Hobnobs, a sofa to enhance enjoyment of tea and Hobnobs, and an internet connection for keeping up with the goings on on LR4x4 at the weekends. Maybe even a stereo so you can't hear Mrs Beaumont nagging you to fix something in the house

This makes me think of SimonR's elevation roof he has on his ramp. Maybe you could have an entire elevating shed, with drop down skirts (a la Dormobile roof) to keep the draughts out when lifted. Oh and make it as big as you can get away with without upsetting neighbours/council etc.

Si, you may not know everyone that has lent you stuff, but a lot more people know of you and your good reputation. I would not have any issues lending you stuff, based on this. Unfortunately I have a number of friends, good friends too, that I would not lend my prized possessions to, simply because I know how they don't look after their own things. It's not as clear cut as whether you know the individual or not. As others have said, it is up to you to decide how much you trust this chap. If you know where he lives, and you see evidence of some insurance, or he offers you a deposit of suitable value, that's a good start. Maybe you know someone else that knows him and can vouch for his character.

Tony, was that a 'one ton' spec 109"? I know they had a lower transfer gearing.

NOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Extreme 4x4 is the latest incarnation of Scrapiron racing!!!! It must have been a rip off of something good to begin with then. Foundry 4x4 sell similar wheel carriers on the bay for a good deal less than than. I think they may be Bearmach items, I can't comment on quality though.

MPG isn't everything you know! 101 - lots of fun, nice sound track, very thirsty, not that fast, good for pulling trailers AMG CL55 Merc (would rather an ML55 though) - bound to be fun (in a different way), nice sound track, thirsty, fast, good for pulling crumpet So Mr Stuck, you're right, they are similar

Mikey - if you do decide to go the air brake route, I know of someone who has fitted such a system to his 6x4 150" Defender V8. I may be able to find out various info on parts used. He converted his Ifor Williams trailer to air brakes to go with this project, and I believe it cost a pretty penny to do. Another point worth noting is that said chap was going through a gearbox (R380) every 6 months The combination of a 4.6 V8 and 4 tonne trailer behind the 150 was evidently too much for it. Since fitting a cooler to the gearbox I believe they are lasting slightly longer!

As far as I was concerned 2 ton (old imperial ton) is what was marked on the chassis plate of my 88" series II and III I had. Does the additional weight of a 109" mean it is rated at a higher towing capacity? I've never owned a 109" It goes without saying that all trailers over 750kg should be braked. How well said brakes are working will have a lot to do with how well the towing vehicle can cope with the trailer in question. Trailer brakes should be in tip top condition at all times, although sadly this is rarely the case as we have no system in the UK to inspect and regulate this. If the trailer brakes don't work at all well you will be standing on the stop pedal with both feet! Also, if you have knobbly tyres you may well find your towing vehicle struggling for grip on the tarmac too! Other factors to consider - a 50mm towball is only rated to 3.5 metric tonnes. If you were to tow 4 tonnes of air braked trailer behind a Defender for example, you would need to fit a 5 tonne pin type hitch and the trailer be equipped accordingly.. If I wanted to tow 4t I would also be paying good attention to the condition of the rear of the tow vehicle. I would also not be asking such a task of a 2.25 petrol or diesel engine As much as most Landrovers are physically capable of towing and stopping above their legally rated loads, the Rozzers are far more on the ball these days about overweight trailers and vans. Penalties are heavy. Best not to risk your license and other people's safety

Pliers type riveters are bluddy hard work with landy sizes pop rivets! I second the lazy tongs. Had mine for years and they've done a fair bit of work. The only downside is that you can't use them in confined spaces owing to the need to open them all the way for each stroke.

I daresay there are some good strong features that can't be seen outwardly, but that is too much money for a wheel carrier!!! If you fancy making your own for a lot less ££, Paul Humphreys did a writeup of a similar design he made to go on the back of his Landcruiser. A LR version could be based on this. Ah here it is, part of a complete bumper build. G00gle is great at finding stuff

Ride stiffness will depend entirely upon the springs you choose, spacers or no spacers

It depends what you want to achieve. If you are happy with the ride from your existing springs and shocks, spacers are a good plan. If you need new springs and shocks anyway you may as well buy the longer items. My ride was fine, but I needed to lift to clear larger diameter tyres so I made my own 1 1/2" spacers, in the style of Gwyn Lewis' ones. I also made lowered shock mountings, bump stop spacers and rear spring relocators.

Rich, this topic is what I based my setup on. As you may have read, more people have used the Sanden pump, as that is what is found on older V8s and 200Tdis with multiple vee belt front ends. The later V8s and 300 Tdis are fitted with the Denso pump. They are not the same in construction so don't lend themselves to the same way of filling with grease that many have adopted with the Sanden.

Pressure switch, PRV etc would normally be built into a 'system'. The compressor alone does not feature these. My compressor switches off at about 110PSI and back on again at about 80. The hysteresis will vary and may be adjustable depending on the type of switch you use. My PRV is also adjustable and is set to blow at about 120PSI. All items you will need can be found on the bay As CW says, mains powered compressor parts are perfectly suitable.

Every one of those I have owned (quite a few) has always allowed oil to leak past the plunger seals, thus loosing plenty of oil onto the floor. Now I use one similar to this in a 20 litre drum. I bought mine 2nd hand on the bay. Bit spendy otherwise. The nozzle is right angled so gets into diffs, trf box or main box fillers easily.

Unless I am mistaken, I can see an automatic tensioner anyway. That will provide a degree of forgiveness, should a foreign body get trapped under the belt.

That looks great Si, easy to use too - the most important feature. I like CW's X-Shield suggestion. Struggling to come up with anything myself right this moment

Record a soundtrack of your afternoon's activities in the workshop (hammering, clattering about, argueing, copious expletives etc), and leave that playing on a loop through the night. Should give any nosey Paddies the impression that someone is there.

:hysterical: Oh, and Turners definitely get my approval if he doesn't like SimonR's solution.