disco2hse

Not hard to fabricate. Make certain the lining up is as straight as possible though. Two shafts: PTO -> UJ ---> greasable telescopic join to UJ -> pillow block ---> pillow block -> UJ to output ---> == shafts. 2 x High tensile steel shafts, 1". 2 x Forged steel UJs if possible (pref. not cast) to fit. The third UJ should be attached to the telescopic join. 2 x Greasable pillow block bearings to fit. 1 x Greasable telescopic join to fit. This is important to absorb movement from the engine.

No. Don't do that. This will work nicely on new materials and is applied to the thread itself. It also (mainly) helps in sewing by making the thread slippery. Bees wax will look like carp if it's not done right. Get yourself some of this type of stuff Waterproofing agent. It's like PVA glue when you apply it and when it dries it turns pretty much invisible. It is water soluble until dry so washing up is easy and it is not petroleum based. On seams put on two heavy coats, both sides of the seam. No more leaks, seriously. Apply it with a paint brush and work it into the fibres for a really good seal. It is made locally here, but I am certain there will be an equivalent where you are. The stuff is designed for horse blankets so its friendly. I use two litres on a 3/4 109 tilt with 2 coats each side.

Yes and it was pretty effective too. But you are taking the engine heat via a fan and just redirecting it through ducts into the cabin. I would think that for this to be effective the place to capture the heat would be at the manifold, where it is most intense. On salt water cooled marinised engines it is common to put in a heat exchanger into the exhaust system. This has a fresh water and salt water component in which the fresh water is circulated through the water jacket in the same way that water is run through the car's radiator. The heat in the fresh water is carried off by the salt water, which is then discharged through the exhaust. This has the added benefit of cooling the exhaust too. In one vessel I had the salt water was carried around the exhaust in a water jacket before it was discharged so that the exhaust fumes were significantly cooler when expelled. With the caution about carbon monoxide and other nasty gases in mind, what you could do is construct a water jacket around the exhaust manifolds that could be used to reticulate heat into the cabin. Rather than having the heat used to warm up cold air you could either plumb it into a modified heater box to increase the heat presence in the existing heater or run pipes, say, under the floor or around the cabin roof to create ambient warmth like a radiator in a house. A simple tap or shut-off valve could be used to control the circulation of water. Circulation can be aided, if necessary with a small pump, otherwise I suspect the natural tendency for heat to rise and cool water to fall would be enough to circulate water throughout the system. All been done before. Nothing new there, just in the application. Alan

A lot of the history, basic mechanics, servicing guides, etc. are already published on the interwebs. So why not build a list of links? If you use a wiki most seem to have ranking functions on them so people can "vote" for what they like, or not. A suppliers promo section is a good idea. That is usually frowned on by most forums. A good search engine on the site would solve most of these issues. Top idea! I am trying to aggregate RSS aggregators into my gmail interface. I am registered on lots of forums and simply forget to check on them all, all the time. Alan

Diana is a very highly respected member of that forum.

Is it still galvanised? Why paint over the galvanising if it is? If not still galvanised, then strip to metal, etch prime, prime, top coat X2. Door panel repairs post #7

That's a really straight wagon. Very nice. Here's some pictures from the rear of mine to illustrate the above. Not as purdy as yours though.

Since it can be a little tricky getting the boy scout stuff right first time I thought you might appreciate this. One is an LRO extract that shows how they put on a soft top but there's one bit missing that is also important if you have a LR original tilt and that is how to properly tie down the rear. In the rear flap there's two grommeted holes, the rope that goes across the back-end pokes down through those holes and is tied off on the rear uprights, on each side. The side panels also have a hole half way down on each side, at the rear. When you tie it down you tie them in there too. Anyway, here's a pdf that shows what I mean. The last three pages are pinched from manuals I have. They show what I tried to describe above with the rear tie down. LROSoftTop.pdf

hehe Or do what the yanks do. Stick the vin and plates on a different piece of trash (you know, something like a Morris Marina - saves wasting pianos on them). But then leave that on the side of the road,...

Leave it on the side of the road, put a match to it, and report it as stolen. Let the council clean it up and do the paperwork.

That would be because there's no engine or gearbox in that photo either, I would guess.

People who have bought these reckon they are the bees knees. Tigers11

Thunderbirds are go

Trialled one of these in sand for one of the local Department of Conservation rangers. Compared it with a fixed anchor and there was no difference between them, performance-wise. The advantage of having something that can be folded cannot be denied. As an aside, I have a Sarca anchor that I keep as a spare on the boat. It can also be used as a ground anchor, which is what the design was originally created for. They are made by the same people. The Sarca construction is robust. Alan

You mean like one these?

Agreed. Gets a little tiresome really since most people who live in Auckland are not from there originally, like me. If you go to the South Island (Christchurch, Dunedin, West Coast, etc.) remember to *never* say you are from Auckland, they will hate you for it.

You mean like this?

I am. In Auckland too. If you haven't already, contact LROCA via lroca.org.nz and get hooked up with the locals. Others you should contact are Morris at Stag 4 x 4 in New Lynn and/or Terry at Heritage Mechanical in Henderson. Cheers Alan

Had one for 15 years. In that time it was on its second engine and second gearbox. It was a 1991 model and 4WD twin cab. When I sold it I had done 330000 k's. The only reason I went through two engines was that I was using to drag the boat (about 3 tonnes) and the load was too heavy (cooked the engine on a hill climb). Solid, strong, and reliable vehicle. Good engine and gearbox. Was still in pretty good condition when sold but wanted something with more pull for the boat. Fuel economy is not great but mine was dual fuel (LPG & petrol) so that helped a lot. Got about 300-350 k's per tank. Heads don't crack at 100k miles, but if mistreated. Look after it, service it when required, and it will look after you. Not fantastic as an off-roader but that is not what they are designed for. There still quite a few around here (even of that vintage) used by tradespeople. They are designed as a trade-type wagon and that is what they do well. Alan

Oil in the cooling system is almost always blown headgasket, there is normally no other way that it can get there. The car can run fine with a head gasket blown if the leak is between oil and water channels. Is there also water in the oil? You should have it compression tested.

That is one great looking truck you have there It would be good with a 3/4 canvas on it, you already have the channels in place. Even if you remove it, I'd keep it. It will add to the value of the truck later. Well, that is a fairly relative issue. There will always be some play but it should be no more than about 15 degrees (that's 7.5 degrees either side of centre). If the play is in the steering box (it's out of adjustment) it is pretty easy to tighten up, but you should also check the rest of the steering gear to make certain bushes are ok, etc. Useful posting here: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/series-3...ment-59017.html The brakes are never the best in Series III's, not when compared with fancy-schmancy disc brakes. But they probably need to be properly bled and and checked for cylinder travel and adjusted correctly. The gearbox isn't always smooth but is something you get used to. I always tend to make the gear change in two distinct motions, move it out of gear, then move it into gear and be gentle, it doesn't need to be forced. You will feel it slide out and in to gear. Assuming you are talking about the side windows, you can get the channeling quite easily. Provided the door tops aren't rusty you can remove the glass and replace the channels. This should be of some use: http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/FAQ.S.window_channels.html Sitting down low is not always a good thing in an off-road vehicle. You need to be able to have clear visibility. Remember this is not a low-rider. And Saab seats?? I prefer the old Landy seats, they are surprisingly comfortable after a long day in the rough stuff and they give pretty good back support, considering. I find seats that make you slouch more of a problem because you are forever having to pull yourself upright so you can see. The faulty fuel gauge is possibly either a poor connection to the gauge, the gauge itself, or the sender in the fuel tank. In any event fixing is pretty easy. Make sure you actually have high beam From your Flickr notes: Looks like a bodged up radio to me Yeah, look. I wouldn't be so sure. It only has 10's of thousands of km's, not hundreds. Mine just went past 30000, but that is actually 230000 km. The switches are IIRC, clockwise from top left, dash board lights, park/head lights (two settings, one click gives park and two give head lights), windscreen wipers (same as lights, two speeds, but this should be a toggle you twist and push for squirters), and heater fan (also two speed). You can identify your vehicle here: http://www.lrfaq.org/FAQ.3.Chassis_Numbers.html The large air filter is there for a good reason and I would not change it. Cheers Alan

Is that this place here? Thompsons Flat

Hi Alexander, You guys have some great places for off-roading. You are very lucky. The landscapes look fantastic and very wild. The run looks like it was a great success and a very interesting place to be driving through. Parts of Russia do indeed have a tortured history and it is important to take the opportunity to remember those who sacrificed so much, and regardless of where they came from. Thank you for the report. I enjoyed reading it very much. Cheers Alan