disco2hse

Well, Sherlock, it's like this, and it's like what's been said elsewhere in this thread. People like you who are happy to buy stolen parts create demand -> people who are happy to steal do so to meet the demand from people like you -> the people who steal stolen parts put them up for sale at markets and online to satisfy your demand for stolen parts -> you happily buy stolen parts, thinking you've got a good deal -> people who steal to sell see there is a market and they establish a supply chain. Repeat. It is because of people like you and others of your kind that so many of your Land Rovers are being stolen and ripped apart, to be sold as parts. Now, I need to clean the smears from my brick wall.

And here is the reason your vehicle is at increased risk of being stolen.

I had exactly the same thing happening to me (on the Stage 1 though). I had to replace the brushes because they were completely worn down and the high speed brushes were non-existent. I also had to replace the switch but I couldn't find a decent second hand one the price new was just stupid, so I replaced with a standard 5-position wiper switch from Hella. Replacing the brushes is not hard, but it is a pain the neck. The main brushes are pretty much bog standard Lucas, so before you go buying rubbish or expensive branded bits, find the Lucas equivalent and buy them from your local auto-sparky. You will probably find they are too long or too wide. No problem, just use a Stanley knife and trim them to fit. With the high speed brush, the original will probably have a notch in the side. Use your knife to make the appropriate notch.

If it came out from the Stage 1, it is very unlikely to be anything else. This thread gives idea as to what to look at, although it is about rebuilding the hubs. That is where most of the visual difference resides (from what I can tell anyway). A rivet counter will disagree of course.

Sell them separate. Front axle (are you referring to the axle shaft or the whole axle and diff casing?): Depends entirely upon condition and wear, but start at 150 quid and let the auction take it further. This guy has a CV for 60 quid . Front prop: Again, depends entirely on how much wear and if there is any play in the cardan joint. I bought a good used one for NZD60 as a spare.

Hi and thanks. Sorry I didn't respond sooner. This forum doesn't send me email updates to threads for some reason. That is very useful and confirms what I suspected to be the case. It was suggested to me to use the carb fittings but I was leery of that option, for the reason you stated. What I did do is splice the gauge into the CDL pipe that comes from the banjo bolt you indicate. No effect on the switch and the gauge works as it should.

I have installed a vacuum gauge into my Stage 1 V8. I have SU carbs, so what vacuum pipe is the best one to cut into for the gauge? I tapped into one that comes off the inlet manifold on the rear end of the engine. It looks like goes down by the gearbox so I think that is the CDL pipe. When I start the engine, instead of the vacuum coming up sharply, it creeps up then stops at about 12inHg. Revving the engine does not change the vacuum reading, so I am assuming this was not the line to tap into. The question is then, what line should I use? I would rather not drill and tap into the manifold.

Maximum vehicle laden weight is not the same thing as its towing capacity. However, the laden weight of the trailer should not exceed 3/4 of the unladen weight of the vehicle.

Odd and pointless

Sika is not a pain to clean. It washes off with turps. A trick is to use a small square of stiff cardboard to clean the edges. Once they are set, don't mess with them again. Use the Black Sika adhesive sealant. Unlike dumdum, it does not dry or split. This is the one you want, and you can get it in small tubes too. http://usa.sika.com/dms/getdocument.get/006a239b-1e1a-3eab-a634-6c9b773cacf4/&ei=CzmyUZGCOsWdkwWfu4HwBw&usg=AFQjCNEM3tE6LbYMTsLgDtzlFW7cc1V90Q&sig2=NtlAmXE9atPCiEJZuW9thw&bvm=bv.47534661,d.dGI

So many missed opportunities. Great sounding and looking engine. Nice and simple design too.

http://www.stage1v8.org.uk/phpBB3/ is a good place to ask Stage 1 specific questions. Depends on where it's coming from. Probably unbalanced tyres or wheel alignment. Knocking is a pretty general term. Depends on where it's coming from. Engine, gearbox, diffs, suspension,... All have relative knocks. I assume you have checked the centre diff lock in not engaged. To test the facet pump, give it a 12V power source and stick a pipe on each end. Stick the inlet pipe into a container of clean liquid (doesn't have to be petrol, water is OK but clean and dry it out after). If it's working water will be pumped. There's nothing especially wrong with after market pumps and I know people who have had good service from them. New facet pumps can be quite expensive. Of course, the pump needs to have the right flow rate. You have installed colder plugs than the recommended BPR5 or 4. Numbers go down, plugs get hotter. It is not surprising it does not start easily, and you will find the engine will not be producing a lot of power either. Probably not a fuel issue, although having the carbs properly tuned is always a good idea and may rule out a number of possible causes. The stuttering is most likely related to the cold plugs, carbs need tuning, or the fuel pump not providing sufficient fuel. Also check the points and vacuum tube. The OEM parts fit the facet pump. Yours may have been changed. IIRC it is 1/8" diameter.

Classic internet scam. Been doing the rounds for years now, with a number of variations. Usually involving someone stuck on some vessel at sea. Steer well clear and delete any emails from the scammer.

Actually, that's the best idea I heard in a long time.

You're better off posting your enquiry on the Yahoo group, NZLROC. There are a number of people on there that have done his before, at least once.

Mostly usual problems with a landie that has been left to sit for too long. The door tops are easy to replace (two bolts, each side). You can get new ones from www.landroverspares.co.nz or www.landroverparts.co.nz. Brakes are a pain to get right in these but once done, they are actually pretty good. I would recommend a complete brake overhaul, from top to bottom. Check the booster right down to replacing the brake shoes and cylinders. These use Facet fuel pumps, one each for the front and rear tanks. 80000 km may be 80, 180, 280, etc. Check the actual mileage on carjam.co.nz. The motor is another matter. They are simple engines and essentially, get the fuel supply and spark right and most will be quite forgiving. Running rough could be either of those or mechanical. There are a couple of little wrinkles in these models. You don't say when/if it blows smoke or what colour. 1. They use a low compression cam. The shaft wears quickly and mostly likely needs to be replaced. Lifters are the same, they wear quickly ince the cam gets worn and will need to be replaced. Not a big job. You can buy a new race cam from summitracing.com at a good price. Look for Buick 215 components. 2. They use Mallory Unilite Distributors. Don't be confused by the ARMY589 code on it, it uses Unilite components. 3. The voltage adjuster unit that incorporates ignitor and rev limiter is carp. Dump it and replace with something else. I used a Pertronix Flamethrower unit. Better spark and more reliable. 4. The strommies are, well, strommies. They need to be properly balanced and tuned. If you don't know how, there are people in Chch who can do it. They probably need to have the rubber baffle replaced because they perish after about 6-12 months. The dash pots need to have some oil in them (about 1/3-ish full). If the motor is poked, it is a simple replacement to drop a 3.9 straight in without certification. I did this and put the front end off the old motor onto the donor (water pump, etc.). I also put SUs on instead of the strommies. The engine is basically the same but with a little more capacity and a lot more power and performance. Four grand is probably a little high. I would think 3500/3750.

Cos it was deleted. try this; http://www.free-tv-video-online.me/player/putlocker.php?id=1DCEE840DEDAE714

Well you northerners ought to be offended. The next year is 2013, not 2012 and it is clear that this was written for the southern hemisphere (actually NZ, with reference to the privacy act - one of ours). So you will have issues with jurisdiction if the statement were to be challenged in court. Take care in the snow and I'll might be thinking of you as we bask in the after glow of Cyclone Evan

ACPO?

Be very careful with the selection of oil you make. I have found that companies frequently change the formulations in oils. Be equally wary of anyone who says I have been using X for 20 years without any problems (of course you later learn they have gone through four gearboxes in the same time) because in that time the oil they started buying is not the same stuff for sale now, even though it may have the same brand name. The main issue is that newer machines tend not to have bronze bearings, etc. and those yellow metals are more porous than other alloys often used in machines nowadays. Thus, the oils that are formulated for use in newer machines are designed for the new alloys that are used. The problem is that the chemicals that are used for those alloys in newer machines are formed of long chains and when cool they are absorbed by the yellow porous metals, then when subjected to heat, the molecules expand and fracture yellow metals. This causes those metals to corrode quickly. You will know when you have used the wrong oil because when you drain the gearbox you will see traces of copper in the sediment. Typically, the damage occurs when the oil exceeds 70ºC, so if you never get to that temperature, then you will not be likely to have any problems. If you exceed that temperature, you probably will. A brand of oil I have found locally is Shell Spirax S4 TXM 80W. This is a GL4 oil and is formulated for use in tractor transmissions and marine applications, so it comes in 20-60 litre containers.

Unfortunately, they have a job.

Good stuff. Is it 24 or 12V? I wonder if the top pulley has been replaced. This model had the big alternator too didn't it? If it did, then there will have been two belts driving the alternator and the top pulley is a single only, instead of a double. Maybe a new water pump at some time?

Fair enough. I was just going with, when you said "silver on one side". You know, like the others who posted.

See how the others have their foil on the outside? It is that which traps the air and creates an insulating layer. No doubt you will feel a difference, but the foil will make it more so.

Uhh not so quick. With those mods it would not be road legal unless the mods (PAS conversion and engine/transmission upgrade) have been certified by an engineer. That will cost probably about NZD800-900. Getting it into the country will require a >>lot<< of cleaning to pass the very stringent customs requirements. That will cost bux too. I think something like that might be attractive to a local buyer but since it has been modified, it will be likely to attract less than one that is original and straight. Local vehicles last longer because we don't salt our roads, so you will get higher value vehicles with *no* rust. Me? I'd pay no more than NZD4500-5000 for a straight series III 109 with all the fruit. One that is heavily modified goes down the scale from there. For what you have described, look no more than NZD3500. Sorry.