mahon257

Have at last, isolated the problem.. (as can reproduce the issue when engine at running temp - doesn't occur when cold). The problem is the electronics within the Anti-tamper cover on the Fuel Pump - believe its called the "DDS" (not sure). Having tw*ted the DDS with a chisel+hammer a few times - (always a sensible approach with delicate electronics I find), it actually seems to be fixed! In the meantime have ordered this Timing kit from Paddocks, so will have a go at a permanent fix by first removing the Bosch fuel pump then try to figure out a way of permanently removing the DDS. I'll then direct wiring the cut-off solenoid to the middle of the 3 wires on the loom - that go to the DDS (have found this wire has 12v when immobilser de-armed on key fob, and ignition at position 2)

Still can't start the car when up to running temp (fine when cold). Am getting fuel to pump (I cracked open the banjo on the Bosch pump - get fuel jetting out when turn engine on starter). Does anyone know... where this relay might be... see pic (part AFU2913L) - I think it powers the Cut-off solenoid on my car - which seems to be the problem... (either the solenoid or the 3 wire anti-tamper circuit that covers the solenoid). I've bought the relay (£40 genuine part) - just looking for somewhere to put it LOL It is not: Under driver side kick plate (plastic cover on floor) - which seems to be where Microcat suggests it should be... in fact the whole top row oof relays are not present.. weird. Also, it ain't in the engine bay, and not under PAX glovebox either. Baffled!

Replaced Glow Plug relay with new one (PART NO: PRC6913) - no effect on underlying issue. Broke down again. Called the AA. . AA cracked open one of the injectors pipes at the head end, - no fuel getting to cyclinders... car just turns over on starter. Next time I get some time to look at this plan to: will crack banjo (feed pipe) on injector to prove fuel getting from tank, fuel filter, high lift pump. If still getting fuel to injector... looking strongly like the f'ng tamper proof cut-off solenoid. I don't expect anyone will give me advice on how to remove this (publicly), but if anyone following this would appreciate some advice via PM on how hard it is to remove the solenoid with the pump still attached to engine... (please! beg beg please!) - or should I just remove the pump and then hack it to pieces? I'm suspecting the solenoid... as when you do eventually manage to get it running... it runs just fine - the only issue is starting the car. I don't even want to think about the EDC (ECU?) - just called JSF for a quote - £1,500 + VAT. Final thought... does a "normal" single wire solenoid fit this pump? I'd like to jerry rig a 12v feed from the ignition barrel direct to solenoid if possible.

It's not the spider.... Just taken the dash apart - and I don't have one! Realised now my car is the Manual 300TDi "EDC" variant. Ordering a relay "PRC6913" (glow plugs/cut off solenoid).

dang it... anyone know how to diagnose (test) a tamper proof cut-off solenoid?

I might have found the answer. thank you Youtube!!! (and "trailerfitter2")... things to look at / test: immobiliser glow plug relay cut-off solenoid

Looking for some informed guesses to help diagnose an intermittent starting problem. Disco is a 1996 300 TDi. In last couple of weeks the car has developed an intermittent behaviour, where it refuses to start. The engine turns over on the starter motor just fine, no odd noises etc... It either starts on the 1st turn of the key (immediately), or refuses to start, even if I leave it turning over on the starter motor for over 1 minute!. I can come back to the car 30 minutes later, and it'll be fine, and start immediately. Once it's running, it's fine, pulls like a train, as usual It has happened when the car is completely cold (1st run of the day), or hot - after a short drive somewhere. Here's what I think its not: High Lift pump - it's mechanical - so it either works, or doesn't (presumably) Bosch fuel pump, again, I would have thought it either works or doesn't Alarm/Immobiliser related - when the immobiliser kicks in - normally can't turn over engine on starter - that's not happening here. What it might be (my guesses): Fuel Cut-off solenoid? (dodgy connection) Air in fuels lines (but why would that be intermittent? Any help advice much appreciated.. Thanks Nick

I get a lot of light refecting into the cabin from my roof lights... so I thought I'd have a go at this last weekend. What a flaming disaster! LOL... I bought a vinyl ("matt black") roll from fleabay... All good! Started to apply it to the bonnet - and immediately got air bubbles... Not problem I though - I've watched the tutorials on Youtube - how hard can it be? I was armed with a hot air gun, and the "velvet plastic air bubble remover tool thing". After a few repeated, failed applications, I eventually managed to crease the vinyl... Got the hot air gun out, to "soften" the vinyl - but blew a hole right through the middle of it... Never again... Never again..

I've been with SureTerm last 3 years. Got my 1996 Tdi on Agreed Value Insurance (£15k). I pay about £400 fully comp.

Thanks very much Streaky/fozsug.. A project for the winter here in the UK! Excellent stuff.

If it's not too cheeky... That looks fantastic! Any chance you could take a few close-up pictures? I'd like to have a go at making one of these bad boys! Thanks in advance..

we need a "like" button, on this forum...

Trust in the rust.

I have same issue (at 65mph). Just done 1 of my swivel balls... set pre load to 1.3kgs (within spec). Think I'll be removing some shims!

I second that... I've been to see Ralphs mota... he's done an excellent job... My rig is purpose built for next Sahara trip... it wasn't cheap -the shelving system was about £1000 (www.TubeAndBracket.com ). My disco is also a second car for me - so no worries about only having 2 seats! I would start by looking at boxes. There are a few good sites that supply a variety of sizes of sturdy boxes - whatever you build - build it around the boxes. I'd also recommend getting your head around the free application "Google Sketchup" (3d design software) - if you're inclined to tinker with computers. The tube and bracket system I built was my second attempt at a storage solution - the 1st was simple plywood - it did a job - sort of!! I have used Plastor boxes throughout - they're superb (tough - not brittle). Anyway best of luck, whatever you decide to do. Nick

My home made (adapted from an IBS system and milkfloat parts) does everything... winching, car starting, runs a freezer etc... It is complicated, and has more points of failure that a standard system... but for me it was a bit of fun... Here is the write up: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=58098

I bought one on eBay last year for £60 (seller id" landysom" or something like that). It was perfect...

Cheers Western - STC780. Lovely jubbly. thanks Nick

Need a bit of help... So might as well provide a bit of comedy in return...! New battery (mail order) fitted 2 days ago. Now, mail order batteries have to be sealed whilst being delivered! The supplier even put a label on the battery saying "remove bungs before use". I read the label, then couldn't see the bungs, or realised the significance... 100 miles down the road, the engine bay got "splashed" in battery acid. Oh dear. What a plonker. Anyway, washed most of the acid off - no major damage... except the plastic bung in the brake servo, where the vacuum pipe from the Wabco pump meets the servo, errr "melted". Thus, brake pedal became spongy, then lost servo assisted braking altogether. Manged to plug the new hole with a nitrile glove and some electrical tape to get me home - which worked just dandy! So... anyone know what this part is? It doesn't appear to be sold as part of the vacuum hose, and I've searched all over microcat. It's probably included with a new servo - but £120 for a plastic bung seems a bit steep! It looks like a kitchen sink plug with a hole/tube in the middle of it. Otherwise it's a trip to a scrap yard I guess..

Might be a leak in the vacuum system. Could be a crack in the hard-plastic vacuum hose from the wabco (vacuum) pump on side of engine or with the brake servo itself. I had a similar problem this weekend.. battery acid exploded over my engine bay (long story), and melted the plastic bung into the brake servo - caused a gradual loss of vacuum. Pumping the pedal restored full braking - momentarily. 30 seconds later - pedal to floor.. etc You can buy a servo repair kit (approx £30), rather than splash out on a new servo unit if you're feeling brave (see Paddocks website for example) - otherwise a new server is about £90. Paddocks brake parts Failing that, could be a number of things - includling warped discs, Air in brake fluid, failing vaccum pump... Here's a handy page that shows you how to check the servo ("Brake booster" in Ameriglish) Good luck!

Thanks Boydie - that's the bit I was missing... I'm all set now !! This should be fun!

thanks v. much fozsug... having read the article provided by Les... I now know the term I was looking for "swivel pre-load" . (slaps own head) doh.

Got a funny clonking noise when I drive over bumps in the road - despite new suspension bushes, springs, shocks etc. Also, oddly, when braking and turning left, the front left wheel feels like it's partially locking up! I suspect the CV joint is shot. A closer inspection of the front axel reveals some heavy scoring (scratches) on the swivel housing. There's plenty of grease in the housing (filled it end with the "one shot" stuff last year). Cutting a long story short, I'm planning to replace the swivel housing and CV joint with new parts. My question is: I heard thru the grapevine, there is a special technique for "weighting" the turning resistance (4kgs?) - using shims. The point being to make sure the turning "balance" of the front wheel is "just right" - not to loose, not too stiff. Not very well explained I know! Does anyone know who to configure a rebuilt front end? Apolgies for my pants phrasing... I ain't a mechanic (clearly!)

Had same problem on my Disco (1). I ended up cutting off the front grille... Was then able to get at the cable. I bought a replacement grille on eBay for about £30 Best of luck!