Phil Hancock

For the pinion to chomp the diff center it would be the flange end bearing on the pinion as it would have to move in. I changed my 109's rear axle from a Rover to a Salisbury in a day single handed apart from the brake bleeding.

The check valve/elbow fits in a grommet rather than having an 'o' ring seal and i have never seen han 'O' ring between the master and servo on a series, in fact on my 88" the face of the servo had a groove pressed in so that it formed a drain point in case the master cylinder was leaking.

Ed, the pull off spring has not gone walkies has it as that could cause the brake to bind even tho the adjustment is such that it does not. Handbrake gaiter holding the lever up slightly that the pull off spring would have overpowered the gaiter.

In the past i found that Girling(lucas) did have extra bits in some kits, e.g. the wheel cylinder kits for 109" fronts had 2 different sets of seals, use whichever fit your pistons and chuck the others.

If it was wheel brake you would have found it as soon as you felt the hubs.

Rover axle i presume. Pinion flange end 539707 x 1 Pinion gear end 539706 x 1 Differential RTC2726 x 2 There is a lot of different shims for setting the pinion height in conjunction with a special setting tool that fits in the diff bearing housings and setting blocks then more shims for setting the preload. As bearings are made to a very tight tolerance in the sizing you would probably be ok just changing the bearings but the preload will need to be set by changing the shim thickness. Also the backlash between pinion and crownwheel needs a clock gauge to set. So have you got a 0>1" micrometer and a plunger DTI?

Disco 1 1989 on a G plate. The poxy ball joint that is integral with the drop arm has play in it again. So i want to change over to a drop arm with both ball joints on the drag link. But looking in the parts book the drop arm and box both change at the same time to different part numbers, looking at pt numbers also shows that the tab washer is a different size on the later box. So will the later pattern drop arm fit the splines of the earlier box??

The diffes were both metric jobs, i tried swapping the sun wheels to save buying new bearings to fit the 24 spline center but the 24 spline sunwheels were a slightly bigger diameter.

That has been around for a few years now, it used to be IIRC dark blue. It was featured in one of the landy comics.

and the cast center is basically the same on both, just a slightly different diameter where the sun wheels are.

As there are no oil jets on the con rods it does not matter which way round the rods are fitted, but the numbers stamped on the rods and caps should both be on the same side.

If you are remanufacturing the shaft why not change the carp original with a self aligning flanged bearing, something like http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/?catid=1127&att1=20mm&att2=&att3=&att4=&att5=

Our 89 200Tdi disco never had bars fitted, the axles now in it were from a very late 200 they are 300 style axles but still 10 spline and they have no brackets on the axle cases. Its possible that the bars came in with the 24 spline shafts.

There is a series someware with a Cummins 6BT in it, thats a truck engine, 5.9ltr 6 pot turboed. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=duDgTKtD4so

Once you are used to the 109"/110" rear drum brakes the shoe difference is obvious, look at the position of the ferodo material on the steel shoe, the long unlined end is the leading end when the wheel is going forward.

So what do you do when the shoes move to suit the miss matched adjusters against the shoes and the next time you apply the brakes the pedal then hits the floor and you then rear end a car? Pointer, Nigel Gresham look what happened to him. Put the shoes on the correct positions.

With a leading shoe on as a trailing or visa versa puts the adjuster post in the wrong position to the snail cam so when adjusting the shoes the action is that the shoe is not moved out to the drum but shoved off centre. The feel is that the brakes are adjusted due to the drag when turninmg the wheels but the shoes are only touching the drums at one end and at the pedal its either spongy or the pedal hits the floor but the brakes will pump up somewhat giving the impression that the problem is air. I first came across this problem with a farmer who had fitted new shoes to the rear of his 109" and developed a very spongy pedal, when asked if he had fitted the shoes correctly was adamant that he had and that the new shoes we had supplied were faulty so we had to fix it at our expense. Pulling the drums off showed that he had all the shoes the wrong way round.

Ed. Looking at the pics you have 2 leading shoes on one side of the rear axle and 2 trailing shoes on the other side of the rear axle. http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/landRoverFAQ/FAQ_rearbrakes.htm

With disks there is less fluid needing to be moved as the pistons dont retract like drum pistons so a smaller master is fine. Also although the calipers are smaller than a 110" a series weighs approx the same as a Disco 1 and they have smaller front caliper pistons which are the same diameter as early 90 and RRC.

The drive coupling to the skew gear is different.

Its a servo unit, as Nick has pointed out the only adjustment is to the push rod is after removing the master cylinder from the servo not under a tin cover. If the adjustment was correct originally just changing hoses will not cause the adjustment to alter.

Ed, clamp all 3 hoses and see if the pedal is then solid, that will prove one way or another air in the master. Then release 1 clamp at a time to check each front for air/slack and the rears will have to be both together. If the fronts turn out to be trapped air as the problem you did bleed them with the cylinder pistons clamped fully home didnt you?????????????????? Edit. Bugger, i forgot its braided hoses.

Good news, looking in a S3 military parts book because that gives individual part numbers for the shaft, seal, impellor and pulley flange and comparing them to the numbers in the posted multi language list above for the 6 pot tells me that a 2.25 repair kit will sort out your 6 pot pump. The only part that does not match a series 2 or 3 pump is the pulley flange and they are not part of the kit anyway as they are reused.

Landy alternator/water pump belts are not A section, thats 1/2" wide and we require 3/8" wide which AFAIK is a Z section.

I cant help on where to get one but its not a Landrover compatible pump as the case is the wrong shape at the inlet to the block area. Would a Landy 2.25 pump overhaul kit fit your case?