Phil Hancock

It sounds like a PO has put LWB rears on the front as an upgrade, how did they perform? Late 88" were dual line with a 109" front axle, the 10" rears were just the same as early rears but with the larger bore cylinders(88" front/109" rear).

LR used 11" drums on late SIIIs, essentially 109 rear brakes on the front 11" yes but they were the TLS fronts not SLS rears.

Series 3 109" were 24 spline from the start hence 88" and 109" pre rationalisation having different part numbers. On a 2a they were both the same and the same as a series 3 88".

The stud holes in hubs that were made for drive fit studs were only splined from the fitting of the stud which is harder than the hub. I would measure with a micrometer the unsplined portion of the stud and that is the size for the holes, its smaller than the top of the splines. The flange on the threaded stud hubs are thinner than for the drive fit, the drive fit has the 'head' in a counterbore which is then peened to prevent the stud dropping back out, so when replacing drive fit studs in place of screwed the 'head' will be in fresh air.

The pre rationalised stubs for a 109" are bored larger to clear the 24spline shaft.

I have demolished quite a few to separate the steel scrap from the bronze scrap, IIRC they are a press fit not riveted as they just punched out. I had wondered about running a full syncro smash box myself many years ago but never got round to it and ended up running a series 3 box instead.

We used to have a similar set up made by 'Cleenol' on all our work boats, we ran out of the filter elements and did not know where to get replacements from(pre internet days) so i removed them. The oil pressure went up as a result!

There is no need to drill to strip, sit the bronze ring on top of vice jaws that just clear the linking bars and punch the bars out.

Exactly the same brakes as a 6 pot. BTW the rears are only 2.5" wide.

I have driven an industrial fergy 35 tractor, this has hydraulic TLS service brakes and a SLS handbrake. Stopping is fine but to hold anything on an uphill gradient you need the handbrake as the service brake holds nothing in reverse.

The correct bolt is the flanged one with the 10mm hex.

IIRC a defender 200Tdi is 270Kg.

The flat front and rear faces plus bearing location are 4jaw lathe work.

Never heard of roller rockers for the 2.25's.

1.9375"

What is the material you are wanting it made from? as i have both a 16" Southbend lathe and a Sentinel 58 universal milling machine, both old and slow so ally would be a pain and very likely give a carp finish. Both are imperial machines and the mill has only imperial collets also no DRO's.

Thats 3/8"UNC. BSW should fit but as the thread profile angle is 5* different its not good practice.

I had an R reg transit that was a 2.5Di turbo. It looked like a normal Di with a turbo added.

Yes

Ed, i have a set of tracking measuring bars, proper comercial ones but old style. Check your swivel preload again and if nessesary set it to the max figure, tracking at max toe in might help as well.

The spirolox ring does go in the yellow groove and the spacer outside with the round nut on the end. If anybody says different they are talking c**p.

Series 2B forward control.

And where did i say that a Tdi box is a series box???

There is a lot of series boxes sitting happily behind V8's with a lot more BHP and torque than this would produce due to the less hammer from the larger number of cylinders. Ballpark figures would be 93bhp and 151lbs/ft which is way behind a Tdi which is a lot harsher and does not always destroy the box unless the driver has no mechanical sympathy.

Thanks for posting the pics. From the ribs on the block it looks like its a 7 bearing unit rather than a 4 bearing unit(6 pot version of the 3 bearing 4 pot. Any chance of a pic with the timing case cover removed?. I would love one of these units in my 109" as having had and worked on 2.25's for many years i like them but the lack of go is an issue hence in this day and traffic which is why in the UK its all Tdi/V8 conversions now. It would give the performance of a 2.5TD in a smooth 6 pot diesel which would/does sound soo much nicer than a 4 pot and for most use is satisfactory with the advantage that the series gearbox would not object. A good friend and myself did consider a road trip to spain some years ago and load his 109" up with 4 of these units(2 each) or fly out to buy a 6 pot truck or 2 out there and drive back with a spare engine in the back with the intention of breaking the truck/trucks for the disc breaked axles etc to go in our normal series.