Phil Hancock

You could just unscrew the cap nut that holds the nozzle to the body but what about the cleaning and then checking the pressures, the nozzles are 2 stage opening.

Defo not fit for purpose.

If when you resize the hole to the 7/16"UNF take a small amount off the bottom of the hole as well and then the new nipple should seal fine.

Kingspan dead easy to cut, sharp knife and cut partway thro then snap it off.

Ed I have just listened to your Tdi at Rainsbrook and it sounds just like Heathers Disco. Oh your clutch feels like it still has air in the hydraulics.

Ed with your skills and kit how about a chomped from the solid slip on and clamp with a pinch bolt bracket?

Has the LT77 got a plastic ball at the bottom of the gearlever to fit in the selector forks like the series had at one time? cos they used to break up and gear selection was then fun. The cure was a new lever.

IIRC the axle number on my Salisbury front was on the top front of the long tube.

Series flange end bolts are all imperial and as already said 3/8"BSF-5/16"BSW spanner. No metric or UNF.

When I rebuilt my front Salisbury the bearings came off easily and intact.

I have only ever seen the TLS cylinders fitted top/bottom. Blue box shoes? A friend of mine bought some OEM shoes and OEM cylinders and the drums would not go over them, it was a manufacturing tolerance issue as even though all the parts were in tolerance some pairings were a no no.

To state the obvious 'modern' = lots of electronics.

Do 300 pumps have the same issue as the 200 had, in that they wear some internal components and then smoke badly?

We had a pair of Firestone tyres do exactly the same as what the OP has described, it was the cords across the tread failed. The first one went flat, pulling the tyre off revealed steels cords projecting into the inner tube and the odd shape, the second was when the old man got home with the truck one day and we noticed that a second had gone miss-shapen, in the case of that one wires were projecting out of the inner sidewall. From that point we wouldn't touch firestone tyres, are they even still made?

Measuring at the manifold will tell you what boost the engine is seeing.

Clonk when going on and off the drive can be down to end float on the transfer box idler.

If he has paid for it and then drops out of circulation without collecting it that's his loss and your gain as storage fee. I had exactly the same with a pair of early 3.54 diffs, I sold them twice.

I already have the liner but just never fitted it before the set got laid up. As soon as my BOC oxygen & acetylene run out they are going back for a refund of rent and a Hobbyweld cylinder of acetylene is already asked for as the agent was out of stock.

I'm going to go for the 5 when I resurrect the mig with a new liner in the torch, screws to hold the cover over the works and some new wheels. It was only the cylinder rent that made it get put away. There is a Hobbyweld agent just over a mile away from home and an Acetylene is already on order so that the BOC acetylene can go back as I think next week end will see it empty as I have some steel plates to flange for a new tender for my steamer.

What a thwack. He should just go back to his 4 legged wooly wife and leave normal folks alone.

Hobbyweld 5 = 93%AR, 5% CO2, 2% O2. For steel under 7mm thick. Hobbyweld 15 = AR 83%, CO2 15%, O2 2%. For steel between 5mm & 18mm.

The 2 bare mainshafts are pre S3, to the left of the 1 piece layshaft you have 2 pre S3 1st gears & on the extreme right the small grar with the splined bore is also pre S3.

Post up some pics of the box of which you are uncertain of the ID.

If the handle is in the correct position on the valve spindle it will point towards the tank being used. IIRC the correct position is pointing straight down when in the mid position, which is a useful anti theft device as the vehicle wont go far with no fuel getting to the carb.

Some years ago now we had a series in with a clutch that would not release, it had developed the faul while being driven so it was not stuck from standing. Removing the floor etc to get a look thro the little hole in the top of the bellhousing showed that the release bearing was in fact moving fine but the clutch still did not let go. Splitting the box and dropping the clutch revealed that the clutch lining had broken up and we had 3 thicknesses of ferodo on one side so the mechanism could not travel far enough to actually release the grip on the drive plate.