Phil Hancock

2b FC rims are 1mm out offset, 1 ton are 20.3mm inwards(like the other landy rims)

Bit touchy yes but maybe they dont understand the e-bay case system works.

Sorry but that is total cobblers, the pinion and the diff are an assembly in a casing that is bolted into another case, the axle. So gasket or silicon will have absolutely no effect on preloads or tooth clearances.

The chips between the pinion and crownwheel could have knocked the crownwheel flange on the diff center out of true if they were bigger than the clearance between the gears.

2.5NAD is the answer if you are not in a hurry but want a bit better MPG than a petrol and its fairly standard, if you wont be doing many miles so the MPG does not matter then 2286p or 2.5p.

Not quite as series 1 ton were 6.5" wide 900 x 16 tyres and so are defender 130 rims but they are shod with 7.50 x 16" or 235/85 x 16" tyres.

Have the head skimmed after fitting the new hot spots, its all the emgine shop would do if they fitted the hot spots.

Whats a G valve???

Series cables were square at both ends untill they changed to an almost elliptical shape at the box end during S3. But the gear in the transfer box did not change.

Copper, then Nickel, then Chrome.

There was somebody on a forum who had his series balls 'spray painted' with a 2 pack(IIRC) plastic stuff, it looked odd as it was brown in colour, but it was very tough and tolerant of a less than perfect start finish which was just the original grit blasted, pits and all. Pits were delt with by locally added extra 'paint' followed by flatting down. The 'paint' was used on stuff used off shore. That could well be a better bet than re-chroming.

After the last but one main box rebuild on my 109" after stripping 1 1/2 teeth off the layshaft 3rd gear i had fitted new 1st, 2nd, 1st/2nd syncro hub & both baulk rings, it then grated into 2nd on a downshift and was worse when warmed up. I lived with it by double declutching. To properly double declutch on a downshift you will have to loose the brake while you raise the revs.

Oh yes 'County' branded carp. We used to supply and fit that stuff and then along came Britpart which at the time seemed better quality/similar price parts. Look how thats changed as Britpart are now the pits for a lot of carp.

It fits on top of the over run hitch body pointing forward, to activate the movable bit it pushed down thro the slot in the body and forward so the tit hooks under the case, then reverse. The pain is that as soon as you go forward again if shunting the catch releases and has to be reset before going back again. The original problem could be down to newness/lack of lube in the cam to brake shoe connection area so it is taking a lot more effort to shove the shoes down the cams and release. Our old Eldiss caravan used to do the same thing occasionally and it would then release with a clonk.

Nigel Gresham

AFAIK its 2000kg for a series.

The dumb iron thats visible looks 86" to me. Oil filter RTC 3183, its the same element as the later series 2.6ltr 6 pot.

Look at the front dumb irons, if the chassis rail sticks out beyond the front shackel pin its an 86" and if the chassis rail is above the shackel pin its an 88".

Its not just the restriction in the vision but needing Geoff Capes on board all the time to get it back up there after use!!!

With 2B rims shod with 235/85's i have to fit the wheels outside face uppermost which is opposite to standard and still i need studs rather than bolts with a flat plate to hold it down.

You must have a 1 ton box in there based on those speeds and revs.

It used to be reconed as 65mph at 4000rpm as that was the max revs on a 2.25 of the 2a flavour.

There is an O ring under the breather on the series 2.25's, check for excessive breathing as well as the breather being blocked.

4 cylinder series apart from 1 ton or stage 1 V8 spec gearboxes were all the same transfer ratio in high, low range was lower on B suffix and earlier series 2a than the C and on were.

The front brakes are a known person I'm not that keen on to bleed due to the bleed screw ports being on the horizontal center line creating air pockets above the bleed screws. Remove the front drums and shoes and clamp the pistons fully back into the cylinders, then bleed them out. Refit the shoes and drums, adjust and you should have brakes. Regarding the master cylinder, i would say that the res to cylinder seal is missing/defective in that port.