LandyManLuke

Just don't use a 30A relay for split charging with winches, or any other heavy load, as Kim said!

Si, IMHO, your actions have been noble. I hope your logo remains on the T-shirt.

Yup, 35" fedimas are only something like £20 cheaper than Simex, i think.

That's my personal opinion too. Whilst i'd like the saving, I don't want to possibly have to pay for a new FIP etc.

sorry, can't give any sites, I'd read that sitting at a couple of hundred degrees for sustained periods of time started to break down the oil, making it easier to burn.

Used oil is better than fresh, chemically. You'll need to filter it though. As said above, they're loads of info on google.

I prefer Jim's original design. Ultimately, the T-shirt does what's intended by generating some wonga for HOFS, There's going to be enough of these T shirts about for everyone to see the front and the back plenty of times!

1. No, still 12v. 2. A battery prefers to be charged, than not, regardless of use. 3. Yup, vehicle battery will be drained in winching too. exact current draw depends on the subtleties of having matched batteries and alternators, though i don't know how relevant this would be in real-world use. I take it you intend to use the split charge to seperate the batteries from each other?

If only that difference remained at the 35" sizes

I'd scrap the wire too, it's been through a lot of kinds of nasty. not a major expense and cheaper than the damage if it were to fail in the future.

Lookin' good.

Having read that, I'll be proud to wear the X-eng logo on the t-shirt. Is sleeve printing an option? would look smart.

I'm not sure if they still do it, i remember there being confusion because it wasn't on their site when i bought it (over a year ago). I can't remember exactly how much, £150 ish?

I've got devon 4x4's HD non-winch bumper. i like it.

where's all the Polls results gone!? I voted for an XXL originally

works for me, nice and big on the back?

I'll have one, as long as it co-ordinates, can't have colour mis-matches!! are we talking a proper t-shirt with a collar? i'm not 100% on terminology.

On the top of reservoir cap you'll have the contacts for the float switch, two female spades on the ends of the wires. remove this and check for good contact. I had a similar problem, topping up the reservoir ultimately solved it, couldn't find where the fluid had gone though!!

My bad, sorry. When my rear cross member gets rotten it'll get a new one made out of box section, no more hassle!

Have you checked the level of fluid in the reservoir, and the contacts on the float switch?

If you're planning to pull just from the cross member, you're going to want to do something like BogMonster did here, as the crossmember is made of cheese.

Yup, though I believe it's normally white.

We (Coastguard Hat on) used to have a 2.5P 90 with a Capstan winch, we had two of those red plunger switches on the bumper which were together wired in series with the coil supply, so they killed the engine when pressed. In terms of which switch, I'd want a mechanically latching switch so that when it was switched off, it stayed off. there's not much point having a switch that can be turned on as easily as it can be turned off. you could either use a (rather bulky, but easy to see) plunger type Or, you could use a 'kill-switch' as fitted to powerboats/RIBs etc, usually this requires the driver to wear a lanyard (red string in pic), which if pulled kills the engine. There'd probably be problems with mobility, etc, but the advantage of this method is you don't need to be able to reach the switch, just to yank the end of the lanyard. The stop solenoid only needs a very minimal current, somewhere around an amp, at a (don't quote me) guess, it'd be very easy to measure with a multimeter.

Why not, especially if it's free!

Yup, you need to make sure you push only on the outside shell. pushing on the inside willl damage the bush. Can't imagine turning something up on a lathe would cost much at all, especially if you could hand over beer tokens