LandyManLuke

I've been stripping my RR down and i swear half of the wires just under the bonnet aren't used. grrr. they'll all be coming out.

Equal and opposite reactions and all that, it would come down to the relative mass of the two vehicles, and the rolling resistances. Be fun to try though.

FWIW, we use a boom mic/mono earpiece assembly, where the earpiece slips inside one cup of a pair of ear defenders, also positioning the mic in front of your lips. We use them for landing helicopters, with both ear cups down you can concentratre on comms with however many dB of noise a Seaking makes hovering 30ft above you. also, with one cup taken off an ear, you can hear ambient noise and hold conversations, whilst also getting comms in the other ear. I've not seen any CB base sets with VOX, but you could put a PTT switch on the gear level or wheel etc.

Blue Gee

Ok, Ok, "The alternator connects to the high current connection (the big one) on the starter motor solenoid, to which is also attached the cable from the positive terminal on the battery." Psst, it's "going to be" , y'know, if I'm going to be a pendant.

Yup, the size of the stud terminals make it pretty easy to work out which wire goes where. Being a pedant, B+ normally goes to the starter motor, which of course then goes to the battery. No it's not worth putting a fusable link in for the alternator. The W terminal is for a rev counter. If you want one, make sure you buy one for alternator/diesel feed, as they're different to petrol engine rev counters, some are switchable to run off both.

That's a shame, have always heard good things about Shaun.

I've heard of one guy who just holds his breath for welds... Apparently you can get disposable face masks, like the dust masks available for cutting MDF, or paint spraying etc, with denser filters to filter the gases out.

There's plenty of marine people in the uk who do made-to-order sizes for plastic tanks, i doubt they're purely marine set ups, so the prices might not be too 'marine' either.

oooooo, posh push-button adjustment?!

I've just bought a parweld auto darkening adjustable (9-13) for £60 inc VAT and delivery. You can't really miss the knob for adjustment, it's about 20mm across and maybe 6mm thick.

I'm not a grownup, i know nothing.. Yes two outside triangles will be stronger, and keep stresses in straight lines etc etc, but i don't think you'll need that sort of strength, and as you said, they'll weight quite a bit more then too. you could always triangulate the sides down to the leg (so perpendicular to the long braces), if you were worried about the 'deck' of the ramp bending around its longest axis, but i don't think that'd happen either, again due to the width of the tyre.

Triangulate every time. They will be massively strong, and lighter than any other alternative. Obviously you'd want to add more rungs, but i couldnt be arsed to draw them..

also look at ebuyer, i think they had some good value ones.

Yes, the option of sticking the original IDE HD in a USB caddy has been overlooked. Certainly a cheaper solution, with less data transfer (time), as long as mr AF is happy removing his old HD and putting it in the caddy. Favourites are stored in the favourites folder in C:\Documents and Settings\"username" in XP, don't know about 2000 but a search for favourites will probably reveal all. Edit: D'oh, FF beat me to it

Beware, if you copy files, 'en mass' you also risk copying any virus file, spyware etc at the same time, especially if you try and copy program directories. It's much better to transfer only the specific data files you need. In terms of speed, putting the HD into the new machine is certainly the quickest way to transfer the data. then networking, as mentioned above, in that only one operation is requried as such, copying to a removable HD is a valid method (especially over USB 2.0), but will be more tedious, and much slower if the original PC only has USB 1.0.

110W at 12V = 9.2A 110W at 14V = 7.9A ...your alternator will produce 14.4V In theory, a 10A fuse will be fine, until your battery voltage gets to 11V. In practise, a 15A fuse is suitable if the 10A regularly blows, a 20A fuse is too high.

Yup. Whilst its fine to over-size the cable, keep the fuse reasonable.

just been outside and taken those Ralph? if so, that's dedication to the cause!

I'd earth back to the battery, it's worth saving the potential hassle. the override switch need only be rated for the load placed on it by the relay coil - typically well less than an amp, a few hundred mA. In short, you will struggle to find an automotive style switch that isn't suitable. Red and black wires need to be rated to AT LEAST the rating of the bulbs, more to allow a safety margin is recommended. The blue wire, like the switch, takes very little current, again you will probably struggle to find an automotive wire that isn't big enough. I would add a new fuse, mainly to keep things simple, but the choice is yours. having the fuse nearer the battery is a good thing. Any other questions, just ask.

There's still a great big Staun logo on their site, anyone know the trading standards phone number?

It's a good site, I've got a PortaMig 211 on order and i'm going to try MIGing alu.

Hullo Hairyone, who are you on Mig-Welding? I don't recognise the name!

I've push started my 90 a couple of times, due to a flat battery (due to a dead alternator, but thats a different story). A PP3 9v battery will hold the solenoid open, if push comes to shove (pun intended). As has been said before, a slight gradient, or a couple of mates, and off you go. 2nd gear is the one to use.

Yup, the 200tdi has a bit of plastic that sits between the hose and the hole in the wing.