LandyManLuke

Have you confused me with someone else? Mr O. farmer perhaps?

Drifting further O/T, this was knocked up for a mate's 21st. It's no masterpiece but it fed 25 hungry students on Saturday.

what about using the foldy-downy step off the back of an early disco, I don't know how it's fixed, but that's what i'd imagine you're after.

Nibblers are good, I have an air powered one, but they won't do 3mm, which is what Steve is talking about. I'd go for a jigsaw, and plenty of oil on the blade.

Looks like wires are consigned to vapour-trucks then

Just for info, yacht insurance demands 5 yearly renewal for racing yachts, 15 years for cruising yachts. yacht rigging (typically 6mm) exists in a salt water environment (granted, with few or no 'abrasives') and is subjected to a load/unload cycle somewhere in the region of a tonne or so, day in day out. you could easily go up to 10 or 12mm and it'd be extremely strong. 1.5m of wire Vs 1.5m of tube - weight saving?! I reckon it'd do ok in a roll, it'd be cheap and easy to replace afterwards too.

It's also going to have a huge effect on our marine industry too. Currently all fishing boats, small ferries, launches, power boats and yachts etc use red diesel too.

I don't see how 9" is going to offer any grip, nor will they be made to hold 1000s of KGs. We use two 2" x 4 ft stakes for cliff/mud rescue, in the classic 45 degree rig, and we've moved the front one a bit on hard pulls, with almost 3ft of it in the ground.

Fair enough, I wouldn't take that as 'duty cycle doesn't matter, £69 compressor will do it all' though. Horses for courses etc.

Fair point, if you've got other stuff that uses DIN, it makes sense. So far, we've got a couple of boats, a van and the 90 on XLRs, so the same logic applies.

So, once its a 'one type only' plug, why not just use something better like an XLR? How can you have a DIN ISO number - they're two seperate setups, DIN (Deutsches Institut für Normung) , and ISO (International Standards Organisation), I'm guessing 4165 is ISO and 72591 is DIN?

nope, there aren't any gaskets or any sealant, but the alternator's open at the front anyway.... The regulator itself is sealed inside the housing, but i took my old one apart to have a look, it was full of a lot of carp

That's their downfall, as far as i'm concerned. The design has been compromised in order that they still work with 'cigar lighter' sockets. I've worked with XLRs in the audio environment, and also with lighting, in their 5-pin variety (DMX), but i still think they're nicely suited to this application too.

Tell him to finish his site then

DIY compressors have perhaps a 40% duty cycle, rated at, I think, S3 which is approx a ten minute time frame, ie 4 mins on in every 10. There's a sticker on mine but i can't remember the exact details. Filling a larger receiver, or indeed using a tool for a long period of time, will cause the pump to run longer than this, which will cause it to overheat. The compressor should be fitted with a thermal trip. A workshop compressor is likely to have a higher duty cycle. I believe the small valve fitted to the output of the Machine Mart unit i have was a crude way of limiting output volume so as to give the duty cycle half a chance of being maintained.

You could use the stainless steel cable used for yacht rigging, 1x19 form would be suitable. Sta-lok fittings would solve the problems of getting terminals machine swaged.

Yup, I'd go as far to say Neutrik connectors are the best.

Have a look at Roger's post here and my page here Yes you can use a gas cylinder as a receiver, but in doing so you'll exceed the duty cycle rating of the pump and cook it. Roger's had success in removing the valve in the cylinder etc, but I'll that for him to cover in detail. You could use a simple valve setup to transfer air around, to preserve an acceptable duty cycle. This works as long as you work things logically. My 50L tank and 2 HP compressor takes about 4 cycles to fill the 300L tank, if i observe the duty cycle with a stop watch (ok, i do it by guess-work now). Has your aldi special got a small screw valve on the output? my Machine Mart unit had one, and it seriously restricts output. definitely worth removing.

OK thanks

gav- gets the credit, i just drew out what I thought he meant. A lot of the designs seem to have a lot of mid-tube nodal points, and a lot of metal that doesn't seem to be doing much, both of which are bad things?

i've never got on with that style. I've never had a problem with XLRs, the locking tab keeps them secure.

I quite like XLR connectors, especially the metal locking variety. They're good for 15A, they don't come loose or fall out and i quite like having 3 pins. common ground, switched live and permanent live, of course you don't have to do it like that, but it's useful.

Ta

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Agreed, FF, you can do it in situ, but you run the risk of snapping the brushes. Given the choice of working where i can't see with limited access, or 3 minutes with the air ratchet, well, y'know. Tony, Please can you add a comment to remove the paperclip, after bolting the regulator down. oops. Durite Part number is 0-831-55 Ta Luke