LandyManLuke

And you spelt Diesel wrong.......

yuh 6mm fits, I had to make new ones for my 90.

Si, Interesting, i'd not realised there were different NMEA strings for vertical accuracy and horizontal accuracy. I tried writing some code to read NMEA strings a few years ago, using a serial terminal in VB, i gave up after a while and used the eTrex's serial word output, which was enough to get my home-built GPS map plotting software working. The project died when i got my hands on Memory Map.

Email Wipac, they'll likely send you some new ones, they sent me one, after one fell off. quite friendly about it too.

GPS needs three satellites to get a fix, most modern units are 12 channel, therefor capable of receiving data from plenty of the satellites up there i.e, the ones nearer the horizon. Yes the accuracy in altitude is diminished due to the geometry of the configuration, but average change in vertical speed is low, especially when considered as a factor of forward speed. given this ratio, and the perpendicular relationship between horizontal and vertical planes, I'd say the effect is largely negilgable, under normal circumstances (rolling road excluded:)). Certainly within the scope of 'is GPS accurate?' the answer is yes, very. Ultimately the errors come down to the quality of the reciever. There was/is an argument for DGPS, but since the US turned SA off, you really can't go far wrong.

GPS units give accurate speed measurements, but averaged and updated once a second. I challenge you to make a significant change to your speed in a second, in a situation when you need to know what speed you're doing. GPS speed is a 3D vector, they work on hills, perfectly accurately. I drive by my GPS speedo, far more accurate than the gearbox driven one. Though i guess there might be legalities on driving without a standard speedo, odometer.

Hmm are you sure?! a certain Ladoga team certainly didn't have that experience.

If you study them, you'll find they're not electrically connected at all.....

It would be silly not to. For the sake of a bit of wire, its worth not having an electrical fire.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!! that's really bad, you're shorting the antenna to ground, a really really bad thing to do. there should be no continuity between the antenna and shield/ground what-so-ever.

The easiest way to get the pully off is with an air gun. Failing that, I've done it by wrapping the pulley up in a belt that's clamped down, then giving a spanner a sharp tap (or four) to crack the nut off, once its going its easy to undo.

Is it melting from the inside or the outside? If it's melting on the inside, it's possible it's being used as an earth, so you need to look at your wiring.

Hmm , shame, , guess you go else where now!

I'm no pro, but that sounds like a fault in the diode pack, after all, you've replaced the regulator and brush pack, so its unlikely to be that. Explore recon exchange, against handing yours in for repair. In a fix, i handed mine over to an auto-electrician who basically rebuilt it, and charged me £65 for the privilidge, I was without workshop or tools so couldn't do it myself. the repair meant three days with no alternator - hill bump starts (easy in Sheffield) and not driving at night.... On a seperate occasion, i had more time and was able to get an exchange unit, off the shelf, for £45.

don't like cheviot4x4?

That'd require pretty extensive fabrication on the chassis, there's no rear shock pointing holes in the chassis.

A solution is to secure batteries properly, then install anderson connector(s) to connect to the batteries for jump starting etc. It's not like you need access to the batteries every day, though i don't know what's involved with scruntineering in this situation.

Great pictures, good luck!

88" hard top side panels are what you want, they're the same length as the rear panel of a 110 apparently.

You've mastered the art of being in two places at once then 'pumping' is 20 seconds of pressursing the container. 'spraying' is infact pouring, as there's no spray head, and it's trigger controlled - can't get much easier than that.

I do the same as Trev, spray thingy borrowed from Roger (Barton), does the job perfect. this particular spray thingy has a 90deg bit of copper microbore on the end, perfect for hooking into the filler hole.

For interest, yes that's true, tried and tested with a gauge. They seem to suffer from fatigue though, after about 5 cycles it popped at less than the 160ish i originally had it at. Made quite a bang when it went......

Mine's just arrived too, very nice!

The driver, or the Landrover spider?

Well i find classical can be quite nice, but then sometimes some rock, or maybe dance music, all depends on what's going on. It goes loud enough to hear above the grinder too, neighbours love that, i'm sure.