LandyManLuke

Amen to that!! I usually either finish with a clove hitch round a roof rack rail, or a rolling hitch around the working parts that've just been sweated down. This holds incredibly well. You can repeat the loops for extra purchase, though after about 3 loops, friction becomes more of a problem.

There's a knot which i use all the time. Ok, it's slightly harder to undo, but it's a damn sight easier to tie!!! tie a slipped over-hand knot, with the standing part going away over the load, and the working end forming the loop to the tie-down. You'll be able to sweat this down plenty. form a bight in the standing (blue) part of the rope, so the working end (red) is on top. take this behind the standing part and pull a bight through the loop (green). either hook the loop over the tie down, and sweat it down, or preferably, use it to feed the working end (red) back through after passing it through a rail, hole etc. I always do it the second way, as it's easier to work with.

Hi Matt, Merlin Power Store More info on Merlin's site more here Durite Part Nos. 0-005-50 100A 2xSS 3/16" UNF studs and 5 screws 0-005-55 150A 2xSS 1/4" UNF studs and 10 screws 0-005-51 100A 4xSS 3/16" UNF studs 0-005-56 150A 4xSS 1/4" UNF studs Luke

Jubilee clips will be fine! my springs are currently held in with 3mm rope lashings.

Best bet is to beg/borrow/steal a GPS, and take that out with you, before and after. The speedo normally isn't that accurate to start with. This page is a useful one.

Yup, as said, the short is before the switches etc.

Bob's attempt at pulling off the 'walking on water' stunt was foiled by a lower than usual high tide.

They're nice, they produce round holes unlike drill bits that don't (in thin material). standard tool for fitting VHF aerials in roof panels.

I'd wire straight back to the battery too, via a fuse and using a relay. There's a relay wiring diagram here

Portamig, British built machine, not a toy-welder. spec sheet here The guy who sells them has a shop ooop north, or is weldequip on ebay, and on http://www.mig-welding.co.uk

The gauge and thermocouple that you've got/had may well have been matched, so as to make any inaccuracy less significant. It's possible that a new gauge & probe pair are matched. Pairing a new gauge and a new thermocouple will not result in a perfect match, but i would expect, one that is certainly good enough. The 3% difference mentioned above pails into insignificance when you start considering response lag/heat soak, heat loss between the cylinder and manifold/downpipe etc. I'm sorry I can only talk in the generic sense, I know people on here have fitted EGT t'couples, maybe they've got contacts with suppliers who can offer a more application specific answer?

1500 deg F is 815.6 deg C, which according to a K type look up table, should produce 33.930 mV (816degC), the difference may be due to the gauge's cold junction compensation, or just a slightly different thermocouple. 32.906 mV is 791 deg C (on the table i found on Google), a 3% difference, probably well within the tolerances of a K type i suspect. K type thermcouples are in-accurate, due to the metals used in their construction (originally, when it was not possible to manufacture them accurately), modern K types actually have impurities added to maintain calibration. I've got a look up table from a better source at home, i can check against that tonight.

2.5 Ohms at what? All K type thermocouples should be interchangable, as it's a standard combination of metals.

There's no relay, it's just a multi-pole switch.

doesn't the fusebox take it's supply from the starter motor terminal? i'm guessing you've left it off? I can't see how not having an alternator would cripple the rest of the circuit, as long as the alternator output wire is insulated.

Ok I suppose, if it's not wired to a WL etc, and therefore receives no field current, it's never going to start charging, so no problem, as long as there's no 'stray magnetism'. definitely a different situation to a battery cut-off, where the alternator is up and running and suddenly loses it's load.

Not wanting to sound rude, but is the alternator being run with no wiring on it? ISTR it's bad for them to be run with no load on them.

MM 4x4 Defender 200tdi radiator ~£100

What's wrong with ~£100 for a 200tdi defender radiator? didn't seem overly expensive to me...

I can't see cold having anything to do with a relay, least not unless you filled one up with water and froze it, and that's not the easiest thing in the world to do.

I bleed a corner until the reservoir is quite low, then top up and bleed it through until it runs clean, topping up the fluid as required. This lowers the amount of cross contaminated fluid. I err on the side of caution and bleed through quite a lot, then a bit more. I don't really see it as a waste.

here you go

no, i got the same

I had the inner NSR bearing collapse at about 40mph, welding the inner part onto the stub axle. It took a hydraulic puller to get the hub off and the stub axle was ruined. For the ten minutes it takes to whip the drive flange off to check if there's at least some grease around, It's well worth it IMHO.