pat_pending

What they said. The parts physically fit but there are a host of internal differences. Although i think the last n/a's used turbo spec blocks. Bad idea, the td must be L/R's worst engine in terms of reliability and resistance to abuse.

Ditto, Dayco. Replace both the cam and crank seals. Use O/E or genuine seals not cheap rubbish.

5'1/2" on my 89 110. That's the x/member only which is narrower than the body. Is that what you wanted?

There is definitely some wear in the linkage. The lever should engage diff lock before it gets near that plate. By removing/modifying the plate you are mearly treating the symptom and not the cause.

Sounds like it's starting to run on it's own engine oil. You said you cleaned the hose from the air cleaner to the turbo. How oily was it, was the air cleaner element soaked in oil? If you take the oil filler cap off when it's running does it chuck out smoke from the rocker box? You will also need to take off the elbow from the turbo to the inlet manifold and take a look in there. If the turbo seals have gone it will be soaked in oil.

Wear or slop in the linkage. They have crappy little plastic bushes at the centre pivot of the operating lever. You need to get at the linkage to see what's happening. What vehicle is it on, and what main g/box? as there are differences in the linkages and means of access, "200tdi" is just the engine!

There is no longer any MOT exemption on recovery trucks under 3.5 tons. It was done away with some years ago about the time they stopped them from running on trade plates.

We took in a Renault diesel in p/x, had a slight missfire and a bit smokey. Compression test showed one cyl' slightly down. Head came off, appeared to have had a recent head gasket change. Popped the pistons out and...two slightly bent con rods. Renault only sell them as a set of four at over £300. So if/when the head comes off, check all the pistons are coming up to the same height.

So how do you know when the 3rd tank (under the passenger seat) is empty? If this still contains 20 or 30 litres you'll never get the full amount in you think you should.

Email them and ask for copies of their independent test results.

I'm not aware of any oil grade that would cope with the requirements of both boxes. It would still have to be thin enough to avoid strain on the 380s internal pump whatever the external pump could cope with. Even if you found one, with what you're suggesting you may have trouble balancing the return flow to each box. You could end up emptying one box and overfilling the other. I'd use the standard L/R 380 pipework to a bigger cooler element, leave the 230 as is, and use good quality synthetic oil to the correct spec' for each box.

Replace the flexi hose, i should think it's breaking up inside, allowing the higher pressure from the m/cyl through but restricting the lower return pressure back from the slave. Press and release the pedal, then slacken off the union at the slave end of the flexi, if fluid spurts out under pressure, that should prove it.

As i said, i think the garage are being petty, but you have no right to the information. Surly the easiest option is to contact the previous owner, either they will have the information required or can give the garage their permission to release it to you.

Flasher relays work by "sensing" the load on them. So if they work OK on hazard, but not on indicator then that suggests there is not enough load when you indicate L or R. So possibilities... As it's ex MOD does it have wing repeaters, and if not have you got a Civi' flasher unit designed to "see" 3 bulbs a side? that would do it. What voltage is the vehicle 12v or 24v? are all the bulbs and the flasher the same voltage? Got any LED units on it?

Nothing to do with the Police, it's a civil matter not criminal. When you book your vehicle in to a garage for work to be done you enter into a private contract with the garage, any paperwork, invoices or records are between you and the garage and as such any future owner has no legal right to see them. So in that respect they are correct. However, as the question you asked them really only concerns what parts were fitted on a job they have already admitted to doing i think they are being a bit petty.

The brake light is earthing or back feeding through the side light circuit, so.. There is a poor earth on one one or both the rear light units. The bulb is not located properly in the light unit. You fitted a single filament bulb instead of a twin filament and the single contact on the base of the bulb has shorted across the two contacts in the light unit.

My mistake, didn't see that. it's me age still makes them £80 a pop without all the extras the standard ones come with for £60.

OK, lets see if i understand this correctly. When you fill up from totally empty, fuel flows through the first (wing mounted) tank until the original tank is full. Then it fills the first tank until that overflows filling the third tank until all are full. In use the original tank empties and is topped up by the first tank acting as a header. when the fuel gauge shows empty you manually activate a pump that empties the third tank into the original. Your problem is that you don't believe the third tank is filling as the quantity of fuel added from empty does not add up to the total capacity of all three tanks. Am i right in my understanding? If so, my questions are.. 1. was this your first fill up with the new set up.. If so you may have to wait while the fuel makes it's way through to the third tank and then continue filling. 2. If not, and previously it had taken the full 175L, how do you know how much fuel is left in the third tank? As this will obviously affect how much you can put in.

Rear wiper is not part of the MOT. As others have said, the shaft seizes up. Its not too difficult to strip the motor, clean up the shaft and refit it with some grease.

I bought my red polybushes direct from polybush. Ring them up, they're ever so helpful. (They all came out six months later to be replaced with OE, but you didn't want to hear that did you ?)

Is that £160 each? Jeez ! Considering they do standard replacement swivels plus a kit of seals and bearings for £60 a side, I'd say that was a rip off. It's only a standard ball with the holes in a different place, so the only extra cost is altering the programme on the CNC machine they are invariably made on.

We used to fit water injection kits to Saab turbo engines back in the early 80s, very effective they were too in conjunction with some boost and fueling mods. Never thought about it on a diesel though. Anyway the kit consisted of a fairly basic nozzle, pressure switch, relay and a windscreen washer pump. The unit was triggered when a certain boost pressure was reached. I would have thought that how sophisticated the atomiser needs to be would be determined by the inlet charge temperature. If this was high enough then the water would vaporize on contact with the hot airstream. If it wasn't that hot, how much advantage would there be to the system? Any idea what the charge temps' are pre and post intercooler and what point are you proposing to place the atomiser? As an aside what about using the air con' evaporator and fan mounted in front of the intercooler to give it a blast of chilled air?

As above, but the shoe with the lining closest the top goes to the REAR.

It's the wheel that defines what's fitted, not the tyre. Tubeless wheel= only tubeless tyres, never fit tubes. Tubed wheel= Always fit tubes no matter what tyre is fitted. Fitting tubes to tubeless tyres is fine (on tubed wheels) unless the tyre manufacturer specifically states not to. That would probably only be the case on some high performance tyres, and you'd be unlikley to fit them to tubed wheels. The problem of split tubes is mainly caused by people using cheap poor quality tubes, and there's a lot of them about. Fitting tubeless tyres to tube wheels without tubes is potentially bloody dangerous, and it doesn't matter how many people post to say they've done it without problems.

You wont really know just how far back you need to go until Mr grinder has paid a visit. What appears to be good metal now, may only half its original thickness, you have to go back to the good stuff. I would possibly do as Les said and go for a whole x/member and irons, though i don't know who does them. Then have a sheet of 3mm steel handy.