callum

perhaps misse dthe baot on this lot and i wouldn't profess to really understand but i saw this and thought of you as it were. http://www.rovertym.com/watts.htm seems some d2 owners may have issues. not sure how much help that is, if any.

not sure if this stuff is any good or not, but someone reckoned the 'netto' offerings were alright. we dont have any nettos in scotland so this is maybe the next best thing. air tools and compressor. http://www.aldi.co.uk/special_buys/index.html could be carp, i dont know shall give one or two items a shot though have paid sod all for some good stuff from lidle, so shall see waht happens (have also paid sod all for some 'less good' stuff from lidl)

i have to ask, what on earth (or indeed not) do you build out of 90mm steel? blast doors?

and i think on the day you install that, you will have the complete picture of why nissan and toyota exist as they do today. much as i'd like to leave that statement i know what you mean about rust traps. i have no idea what to do with my rear crossmember as the design of two c section pices laid in to each other is so rubbish that new rust is inevitable in not too long a time. someone as offered to weld a new one on for me, but i think i shall have to wait until i have time to rectify the design flaws or it will just be a waste. sorry still ranting. passed a very nice white patrol parked in town today, loving the weapons inspector chic and knowing what lies beneath.

i stand corrected, i thought the 2h(and 12ht) were 4 cyl engines. i wonder how they were shoehorned into land rover engine bays whilst 1hz's and that lineage are said not to fit into a land rover. perhaps it is in part that the more modern sixes are way way too strong for land rover driveline. i'm surprised to hear also about the rust issues on chassis. many jap cars built in the 80's are dust now, whereas land rovers are generally considered to last a bit longer even if the steel bits of body on rangies and discos have fallen off by then. 90's jap cars are a different story. 80 serires cruisers seem to age extremely well, as do troopers (bighorn, is the holden equivalent jackaroo or is that a pickup?). same goes for pajeros i think. patrols rust a bit i think, but it seems only to happen to the very abused. i think that land rover honestly couldn't care less about corrosion. their aluminium bodies have given people the illusion that land rovers dont rust and i think they're happy to keep it that way. so many stupid instances where corrosion could easily be prevented at the factory and yet they do not bother. in any case i'm sure you've built your car to the point where you dont care either way. its pretty much now your design and if there's any issue you can just alter it. i'm just amazed you have persisted with that rubbish little rover engine for so long. apologies to the topic starter, waaaay off topic tell me more about this bigger santana diesel.

because you're going to build your own car anyway and you can stick all the good bits from a toyota on to the reasonably sound base of your landy as oppose to keeping all the good bits on what may not be such a sound base? maybe its not such a clear situation in aus, but in the uk a landie is a good base which can be easily altered and for which parts are plentiful. its frustrating to think of the easy time 'yota owners may have and i think if my life depended on the vehicle and i had no time to play with it a toyota or probably a pooohtrol would be my first choice. as it stands its ahobby i can leave in bits in the drive for a while so its issues are not a while and their resolution part of ownership.. i can only presume your landy is the same, after all if i recall correctly you have a proper car ('suzu?) anyway. aside from this lot, what about a 2h or better a 12ht. from a 60 series. they rust like hell and aconversion kit exists in the uk, although is not widely advertiesed. (conversion and precision do have them i think) it will lunch your tranny though. conversion was for zf or lt95 + 85 i think they are also 4 pots so should fit ok. good displacement at 3.9 litres too.

here's some pics when i had just got the tyres, hence the shinyness, none with the wheel stuffed into the arch alas close up of the cut as well, i think it can be done much neater than that, was my first go and i just used some tin snips and then a file or the angle grinder, i dont remember. i followed the lead of HFH who had similar cuts, maybe on all arches, i can't quite remember.they may have been more neat than mine also.

can i counter some of these arguments and say just run it stock. i run 285's on stock suspension, heated and bent the arches up a bit so the tyres do not protrude and clipped the edge off the rear of the front arches and that was it. if you're careful you can do a really good job and no one notices. this solves any issues changing from stock and it should fit fine. granted 295's a shade wider, but it should still be ok. you get slight rubbing (or so i've been told, i was driving at the time) on full articulation, but at that point you're going pretty slow so they wont get ripped off. they did rub when the back of the car was full of 3/4 ton of sand when going round corners a shade fast, but it did not damage. car is still as capable off road and you dont have to think about any knock on effects of changes, someone did that at the factory for you some time ago. also means you dont have to spend any more money, which is nice. i speak form the perspective of a 110 owner, but i wouldn't think a 90 will be any different.

flip front? http://www.ovlr.org/nl/OVLR.nl.flipfront.html thre is a series 2 in the uk that flips the other way i cant find the site i'm afraid. it ran on coild with a 4.6 i believe and i think had cruise control. its creator was something of a boffin i think. had a 4.6 sherpa too. found it not too much detial on flip front though http://www.cowdery.org.uk/v8rebuild.php

damn i think you beat me. my 'suzu lump when i pulled it out of the trooper was on 273000 miles. i've added a few thousand since then, but maybe not 6000. the rest of the landrover has done just over 200000 kilometers so is still relatively fresh, well maybe not fresh, but it still works. we need some proper mega mileages on here.

greenway machos are pretty good and agressive, they are also really wuiet on the road, which is more than can be said for many similarly aggressive tread types. unforutnatley you do end up with 'macho hardrider' written at each corner of your car. 8 months on and the slagging has not relented i think my friends will still find plenty more mileage in that one too. maybe in 2009 or somethign the joke wil have worn thin.

'Home Made Snorkle ' really? would never have known

to go somewhat off topic, how old is that land rover? seems to be reasonably recent going by the metallic paint and fusebox, yet has the older style of air-con dash. is it an import or something? i thought that style of dash didn't last too long in the uk.

are you running a pair of struts or just singular. i've seen a lot of struts on bonnets run as single rather than pairs (on posh cars), but they use very long ones, much longer than normally seen on tailgates. land rover bonnets are pretty flimsy by comparison....unless you're running with a spare on the bonnet of course

indeed, not as if its going to be a terribly well ventilated place underneath the back of a rover. should be able to take the galv far enough back i think. main corrosion issue is the crossmember itself, most specifically seams facing conveniently towards the wheels. major issue i suppose would be the seams of the replacement crossmember legs. easy enough to strip both inside and out at the ends and the outside a bit further up, but it would be difficult to deal with the inside of those seams. ideal would be some suitably sized rhs made into a crossmember, like i think you have on the lightweight (if i remember correctly). it solves the water trap issues so wouldn't need galved, but they take a lot of fab time to make and some careful measuring. unforuntaley i wont have any time until summer holidays for such things (much as i'd like to spend time tinkering in the garage). thankfully a kind sould has offered to weld on a new crossmember for me whilst i'm busy with uni, so that's ok. perhaps not terribly fair to expose someone else to any risk of galv welding though. hmm, maybe i ought just to settle for a normal replacement one like everyone else and see to lots of painting. old one lasted almost 20 years i suppose. i shall see if anyone has any leads, although its not looking likely (maybe that should tell me something) aaaanyway thanks for your help, mot's not till end of july so its not crucial, however if i can get one now at least it can be welded on by an adult for me . callum

looking almost like a car now. how's the 'suzu running? still sans exhaust? what sort of lid are you going to put on the car?

dont suppose you could tell me how much the giglepin boss is? their website does not have any information about them unfortunately. not sure whether to go for an aftermarket wheel or change the column to a 300tdi one and use a metro steering wheel. not sure what's my cheapest option. cheers callum

hi, dont suppose you have any left...and have perhaps posted any pairs out to know what postage might be? i'd like to devise a means of holding my back door open. unfortunately with spare and spare carrier it is very heavy and so wont even think about holding open when you have to swing it uphill. i thought a pair may have sufficient holding strength, hopefully without being overkill. cheers callum

not too sure about changing to a hard top re. dvla, it not too much different from saw adding a grp or ifor hard top on the back of say a hilux or something. only difference i can see is that the barrier to the cab is not maintained. i personally would not bother informing the dvla, but its your call. i would expect your car is listed a s a light goods 4x4 or somehting like that, which doesn't really discriminate between body type. would agree about informing the insurers though. chances are they'll be 'yeah whatever' but at least you have informed them and you are in the right. i think seats may be a different issue, and i couldn't comment, the number of seats and quite a few other items are thankfully not included on my v5, perhaps owing to the age of the vehicle.

hi bob, unfortunately its the crossmember at the back ( think i should have been a bit more clear when i made the original post as to which crossmember i meant) which has become crusty. a while back i had to take a bumperette off to fit a wheel carrier and a large quantiy of brown flakes came off rather than the bolts undoing. looking to get a galvanised one given that their design makes them something of a rust trap. i could get a replacement one galvanised, but it would be easier to get one that's already been done. should i have to get it galvanised myself have you used anyone locally? my dad talked of a galvanisers in cumbernauld and i know crow engineering or whatever they go by nowadays send them to inverness or something, but a closer one might be helpful. thanks for your help callum

that was the intention to remove the galv from outside and inside of bits being welded. then slap loads of paint then bitumin paint over the whole lot and forget about it for a long time. anyone got any leads?

if its any help, my 110 was almost spot on with that combo, 265's were pretty worn and when i say spot on i mean exactly the same as my dad's passat which was used in convoy for testing. i have 285's now so its probably out a bit now

apologgies for bringing this up again. i should like to procure a galvanised cross memeber, but searching through old posts i can't actualy find any suppliers of them mentioned. i'm perhaps being a bit thick and failing to find it. the name brooklyn or brookwells rings a bell, but i'm not too sure. any pointers would be appreciated. thanks callum

whilst on the subject anyone know where to get a sedimentor element from. mine didn't have one when i bought the car. have run it for a few years and its fine, but i think it would be nice to have one. local land rover place said they were really difficult to come by. cheers callum

hehheh, good answer i should think a 4.2 would make life soooo much easier towing than a 2.5. although they get a lot of poverty spec ones there sans turbo, so you could end up with one of those