callum

its interesting you should say that. last pair of 1.9 tdi's we've had one 110bhp and one 130bhp (both in passats) have begun to need a fair bit of attention after 120k. both i think had new air mass sensors (not sure that's the corect term, infact i'm pretty sure its not) at about 90kand there and i think one had a new turbo, but i dont remember which. No.1 was disposed of recently with a persisting oil leak and no.2 met with a speed bump and got a cracked sump. it was also sold on. on to number 3 now. other issues with them were not liking the cold and being very prone to stalling and also not liking being knocked about too much, j turns causing a very easy stall. both of them were subject to about 35k a year, and led hard lives, acting pretty much as vans. however i dont think it would be a life any harder than that of a taxi and auction houses play host to plenty of octavia taxis which have clocked up 350k miles+. unfortunately about 120-130k is when they are pensioned off to an easier life. perhaps that point is just a small hiccup in what should be a very long life. i'd be interested to hear from folks who have ones at about 150k miles or over. other than those hiccups, great engines, 38 mpg with foot to the floor and a lot more if driven with a touch more care. one of auto express's top 10 engines ever in a mag a whle back.

then look at a j reg range rover vs a j reg landcruiser 80 series, bwhahahahah in fairness by the mid 90's they had caught up and surpassed. a lot of '90's jap 4x4's do ok rust wise. 80's jap 4x4's however....

or feel good about ourselves by paying a tax to offset carbon. funny how governments can always solve the world's ills with a tax. they couldn't possibly give tax breaks to cleaner fuels, best to keep burning the bad stuff and tax it instead.

did any photos ever emerge of that? i read about it on this and maybe a few other fora, but never saw any pics, nor any replies to threads. someone on pirate is in the process of shoving a vw 1.9tdi into a series. i think its the 90bhp mid 90's effort. it almost fits under the transmission tunnel its so small. i thought my 'suzu lump sat far back. sorry i digress. to add another question what about a cheap jap turbo engine? should be light i suppose, but i gather for many that its not too much of a consideration.

you could get hold of some waxy brown paper, that's often used for parts. or lube the stuff up and bung it in a placcy bag of appropriate size

i think the issue here is regarding 2 car crashes. and for the most part normal cars wil tend to go under a defender, thus making it safer. the chassis also helps at this level as its the part of the car that's giong to be hit, not the bodywork. any hit above the chassis though and i dont fancyyour chances. side impact may be abit nasty also if the other car doesn't go fully under. paper thin doors and floor coupled with outriggers more likely to puncture something than fend it off will also leave you ain a pretty bad state. despite the protection of a ladder chassis, i'll take a heavy crash in something large and modern please.

you dont seem to have got quite the answer you want for the original question pop over to outerlimits and ask there plenty aussies running this size and they'll be able to tell you from experience. i imagine a body lift is the norm, something like 2" body and 2" spring, but i dont really know as i have zero experience with rangies. LRA flares seemt o be the norm as well, but i think 'jeztastic' rubber arches would be a good cheap way to do it 'maggot' has a post about his rangie in the 'vehicles' bit here, and if i recall runs procomp 315/75 r16's which are almost 35" i think. might be some info there or you could just pm him. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=8259 there infact. looks really good and some off road shots to show the wheels stuffed into the arches. really makes you want to own a rangie.

ahh i see, two different r380's then, normal and short, the latter i presume being somewhat rare.

i'm slightly confused still clarified on a v8 the parts are not interchangeable. but for 4 pot... FRC9865 fits on end of lt77 and also fits on the end of r380. does this overcome the 25mm length problem in this application regarding the input shaft? also, regarding this stumpy bellhousing, surely the input shaft would be way too long, given the difference in bellhousing length between r380 and 4 pot lt77, were you to attach frc9865 to an r380. am i getting horribly mixed up?

eh? so...thorough cleaning, followed by decrease in power + increase in skill = success anyhoo, its now sitting amongst bits of balsa card and plasticine. to top it off when it got assembled in the model i realised, that as is so often the case, i'd made it the wrong way round, with snotty welds which should have been on the bottom sitting proudly on the top....ho hum thanks for the input si, the singular dimnesion of heat dissipation vs 2 dimensions with sheet was kind of what i was thinking, but wasn't so sure it would have such a marked effect.

hmm, no idea of its origins, nicked from the pile o' scrap in the workshop. its pretty dull in colour so either not bzp or really old. it seems reasonably soft, so perhaps as you suggest, just cheap carp. thanks for the info at least it seems i'm not (tooo) ham fisted with the welder.

slightly off topic, but there lots of people iwth lots of welding experience here and something i dont understand. was welding some threaded rod this evening, two bits of m4 side by side, for a model at uni. i thought i'd do it at home rather than filling out 16 health and safety forms and waiting ages to do it at uni. was just going to tack it together and wound the current down (arc welder) from what i had been using for welding 2mm steel... blob, blob, drop i'd managed to cut it in half by mistake and had barely touched it. i managed to weld them together buy being ultra delicate and not without chopping two little end bits off though. it also looks really carp. is there something odd about threaded rod? really carp heat distributor or something, or made of poor steel? was using the 1.6 sticks i had been using on the 2mm sheet steel, i thought i would have been able to turn it up a bit, not have to turn it down and still be able to do lightsabre impressions. i'm just kind of learning to weld so anot at all experienced, but have welded up plenty bolts and captive nuts before without fuss. i think i'll stick to the uhu for this stuff though.

to clarify from a british perspective, you probably know of a gq patrol as a gr. they were introduced from 1992 i think and are notable not only as they are coilers, but also have flared arches. the most recent predecessor to that is easily distinguishable as it has square headlamps. these were built in spain (mostly i think, maybe also elsewhare) and came with 2.8 6cyl turbo diesels and i think a 3.0 petrol of some description. the predecessor to that had round headlamps and came with the sd33 3.3 n/a diesel engine and some petrols, dont know what. anyway, regarding the gq, they came with 4.2 diesel and petrol, td42 and tb 42 respectively, until i think around 1995 when a 2.8 diesel (from the previous spanish patrols) was used. the 4.2 diesel was sold in fewer numbers from this point i believe. the 2.8 also appeared inhe early gu (curvy from 1998 i think) patrols until that was replaced by the 3.0 in 2000ish. the older patrols are what you may hear referred to as mq's, apologies for the bad ordering of this. regarding the toyotas, vx is probably what you know the 80 as and it gained the 'amazon' title i think in 1995 when it also had a dashboard revision for airbags i think, presumably among other upgrades. in 1998ish the 100 series was launched, also called the amazon. easy to notice as they're huge and...newer. as mentioned, they have ifs, so you wont be pulling a front axle off one of those, unless you are going to be really clever. unfortunatley we never got the 105 here (solid axles front and rear) so you'll be hard pushed finding a pair of axles from one of those. I thought they ran the same axles as 80 series, but from reading bush's write up, it seems this is incorrect. further confusion can be had from toyota imports, where you'll find the vx name referring to what was commonly sold as a 'landcruiser II' here, shorty with 2.4 td. i think they ran on coils all round. the prado 'i believe' is an extended verion of that, lwb, 5 doors. they're all 70 series based i think, although i couldn't tell you off hand which one. 60 (and 62) series, is the predecessor to the 80 series. leafs all round, massive rear overhang, 4.0 diesel (2h) and latterly turbo diesel (12-ht) in 62 series, around '88 and '89. 62's come with square headlamps, 60's with round. these look ace and tend to come with amazing 80's graphics down the side. because they look so cool here's a pic. some further images to help with toyota identification here http://www.outbackimports.ca/landcruiser.php i hope that helps a bit, hopefully someone can clarify a bit further and maybe correct some of that which is incorrect. and a final thought, please don't go killing (diesel) gq's too unnecessarily for parts, they're kinda rare here. in saying that a few rotboxes have gone through ebay, they seem mostly to have been abused on farms.

hahahah, the 101 cv is comedy big. i didn't realise when people said they were huge that the wer literally huge would be cool to see the with shafts in is the 101 1.5"? i remember someone comparing a rangie and 80 series landcruiser on pirate once with pics comparing some of the bits and internals. was pretty interesting, alas since search died, stuff has become a bit difficult to find. be interesting to see the jap ones beside over too. i think they must be reasonably similar in size if longfields are primarily fitted of course to 'yotas, but also fitted to rover axles and gq axles. glad to see some proper tech instead of all this 'smack talkin'

a boat, helicopter? sorry i couldn't leave that

you keep pinging up leafer axles unless you want spacers or big wheel offest you'll need to go hunt for some gq/gu axles or 80 series 'yota. mq axles or 60/70 series wont be wide enough unfortunately coiler axles go for a lot more, seems the japs had sorted out rust by the time they shifted to coils. as an aside, if you're willing to rely on dealers and such , toyota will possibly usurp gm to become the largest car manufacturer in the world this year. i dont suppose you can beat that for backup. regarding spares, there's no Britpart for patrol's or toyotas in the uk, discs for example are quite pricey. in aus i'd say no question, but here they didn't sell a huge number (which is a pity). 8o series landcruisers are more common (but have good residual value) and gq's a bit frustratingly rare, the latter having support pretty much from dealer only. don't get me wrong, i'm a great cheapskate and see the rover upgrade as a dead end, but i dont think the jap route is simple as you make out either as for the back end, what the worry with a sals, some folk struggle to give them away and you can fill them up with d60 internals

thank you for the info, much appreciated. cerrently deciding what to do with my wheel. i have the small spline column which fits the rangie wheel. i've got the rangie 4 spke leather one at the moment, but its a bit big. i think i could do with one that would sit just inside the current rim and be about 360mm (i don think that measurement is correct, i cant really remember what it was). i think the rangie 2 spoke rim is still a bit big (although an easy solution) but i dont want to go too small either as the current one is good off road. if only i had a fat spline column, then i could procure a metro wheel for a few quid and just stick that on. going aftermarket is a bitmore pricey. maybe that's how i'll have to go though. next question for the thread... is a mountney boss with 6 studs the same as for momo, sparco, omp et al? if it is, paddocks sell em for £8. if its not then aftermarket really does look pricey.

any ideal wha tthe diameter is in mm (or inches) of the 2 spoke ranige steering wheel?

thanks, that's where i'd got my rubber elbow sizes from. i found some silicone bends on ebay for £15 ea. so i think i'll get a pair of them to do the job. quite a useful site though. thanks callum

yeah with a short lt77 it sits behind the front axle. i've got a mid engined 110 regarding the fans... good question. i got it from the scrappies. i went in and said i was looking for one and the scrap man said there's one lying out over in the corner of the yard. so i went to look at it, but thought hmm, i'll see what else there is. so after searching around under the bonnets of about 20 cars, looking at different push and pull fans and discussing it with my frined who had just completed a part of his course on turbines i took the one i had been told about in the first place. so... i dont konw for sure what tis from, i think its from a sierrs, and is definately a ford part. i' m not sure what type of sierra it was though. if you look at ebay you may see some. its a rally good fit, perfect match for the radiator vertically and about 3cm too narrow to completely cover it on the horizontal. jez, do you speak of the exhaust butterfly and housing? i removed the plate a short hile ago, but left the spindle as it seemed a bit of a pain in the arse to get out, lots of short strokes with a pad saw. i'd prefer it out as i'm aware diesels appreciate free exhaust passages, but it was a bit much work and i didn't want to remove the turbo assembly, its a bit crusty. uni work beckons at the moment, but i'll maybe have a fiddle when some pipe and hose arrives and see if i can understand what you mean a bit better. thankfully there's a plethora of info about on VE type pump adjustment.

following on from a brief discussion in a thread inhe international forum about diesels, here's some pics of the intercooler in installed over the last couple of days. its raining heavily again, so i'm a bit bored. i post i here, becuase whilst its in place its not plumbed in yet and i might need some help tech content is a bit lame i'm afraid, not too tricky just time consuming. and with a tendency to snowball. i'll also apologise for some of the welding in advance. hopefully you cant see it too well in the photos but i'm just learning and finding 2mm steel a bit difficult with the arc welder. nothing structural though so its ok. installation is a bit more difficult than with tdi's as with a tdi, you can just bite the bullet and buy an intercooler that fits in the space, and plumb it in through the space vacated by the old intercooler. unfortunately this one's a bit more difficult as i'm running an isuzu 4jb1, which didn't come with an intercooler from the factory. the intercooler is an ebay special. i went looking for a saab 9000 one and found the one i have, a saab 9-3, which i got for i think £30 delivered, not bad for a brand new, never fitted intercooler still in its original saab box. i had emailed the vendor, to find out how big it was, '40x30 cm' i was told. ok i thought, i'd like bigger, but at least i wont have to move the rad or anything. alas when it arrived it was huge, about the same surface area as the radiator, but with tanks on each end, making it a bit wider overall. i thought i'd give it a shot anyway though and see if it could be fitted. alas summer holidays ended, so i ended up waiting about a year after fitting the isuzu engine beofre giving the intercooler a shot. holidays wil end again shortly, but hopefully it will not remain an engine bay ornament for a long time here's it in place and here's what it will be hooked up to its quite big and sits where the radiator used to sit radiator has been moved back 60mm, which seemed like an easy thing when i first decided to do it, but i had to cut up brackets, make some, new ones. had to switch the bonnet stick round too, but it sits abtit funny now as it was raining so i measured it rather hastily. i also had to cut some holes for the tanks and for plumbing. again i thought it would be easy, but there's two skins on the inside of the wing and other reinforcement., so i tried to take out as little as possible a run of grommet strip and the tanks poke through the wings. bit of a **** picture, but you can see its a very tight fit.wings are crow barred up as high as they'll go with the existing holes and the cooler can just move back and forth when the clamps are not in place at the top bits of tesco bags are keeping the dirt out. here's an in bay image, got to get pipes under the top hose and air intake and then into the cooler. probably have to move the power steering flask thing. aat the bottom wher the rad is moved back, there is not much clearance between rad and power steering box. i have the hose in at th emoment, but its slightly squeezed and makes a bit of a hard turn out of the radiator. if it proves aproblem i'll get a 90 degree exit brazed on. current plan for plumbing is literally plumbing materials. i can get my hands on copper pipe and various solder joints easily enough. it comes in good sizes, matching the diameter of the inlet manifol perectly and available in a size really close to the intercooler outlets. there's lots of solder on angles and downsizing bits as well so it shouldn't be to difficult to assmble. most importanlty its cheap. i'll need silicone hose to take the sharp turn out of the intercooler and i think i'll just use radiator hose to join the other end and also make joints for disassembly and to give the assembly a bit of flexibility. i can get rad hose from my dad's work for not too much (not 90 degree bends alas ). so there it is, rather dull and simple tech. wouldn't mind any opinions on the matter if anyone thinks i'm taking the wrong route.

there-ish already, mine's a £18 ebay cooler from a saab 9-3. brand new as well. it was alittle bigger tan described, but i spent the weekend making it fit. i'll stick some piccies in a new thread i think as its raining and working in the driveway sucks

i'll second that, although i dont have such extreme or exciting cases. buy trooper rust bucket for £100 (and admittedly drive it 200 miles straight to its resting place) 273000 miles on the clock. fit to land rover, drive home along the motorway with hole through radiator one night. replace radiator, continue to use as before. still working on the intercooler bit, could do with a bit more power. i do get 30mpg though in a 110, which is nice.

thank you i think i'll order up two 54mm silicone elbows for the intercooler end. hose is annoyingly expensive stuff

so to veer a bit off topic, what's up front in MOD 90/110's? aeu2522, 10 spline shaft, 2 pin diff? i've read lots of conflicting reports on whats in them, can't say i've been so curious as to take it apart yet.