callum

remember that will be much deeper than a normal defender wheel as they have the air bag to fit in. will probaby be 2-3" deeper. normal landie wheels are pretty flat. you might want to look for a metro/maestro/montego steering wheel for a smaller leather wheel. they are as flat as a landie wheel, and will fit a 300tdi column. you can also use the centre cap from a vogue alloy to turn an austin/rover/mg wheel into a land rover wheel as it is the same size ad the cover for the nut with the logo.

that makes me feel better. was doing some chassis repairs for mot with le arc and have little burnt holes in my socks and trousers and leg to prove it. took me ages to get it looking kind of passable (i.e not requiring the g clamps to hold the two pieces of metal together). it was also raining and all the water from the car seemed to drain down the bulkhead and out at the outrigger i was fixing. mot was the next day and needless to say the previous day had been brilliantly sunny. glad to hear it is quite difficult.

why is there (still) that hole in the wheelarch surely its just asking to get filled up with carp and rust. is it to access something?

anyone used the yoko mt's? i have the greenyway variety and am overall very pleased with them. my only gripe is the wear rate is quite high and whilst they were only £65 ea. i'd probably be willing to pay the premium for the real deal if they had decent longevity, something more approaching bfg muds (dream on). well, at least if they lasted a bit longer than the greenway machos, that would be nice.

isuzu engine is not that heavy, its lighter than land rover 2.5 diesels i think. pas pump is stronger than the rover one, my steering became much easier when i fitted mine, not sure if its up to winch driving also though, i have no knowledge in that area. the pump is also tiny, much smaller than the rover one. glow plugs, do you mean you dont have the relays or you dont have the qos timer? ( a little blue box of magic with lots of wires coming out to control the glow plug timing). you can live without the timer, but not without the relays if you want to use your plugs as there's quite a large current goes through it. i use most of the isuzu set up apart from the timer as i could never find a wiring diagram for the one i have. instead i use another timer which keeps the plugs on for 3 secs. you dont want to keep them on longer than this as they weill burn out. for very fast starting, isuzu and perhaps others use 5v plugs and run them at 12v for 3 secs. after that if using the full system, the voltage will be dropped back to 5v through a dropping resistor for a further 30 seconds after the enigne has fired so its nice and smooth. i dont have the 30 sec afterburn set up yet and so it smokes for the first few seconds after startup. you might not need the plugs set up as jez said and i ran like this for quite a while, but its nicer to have them on at least for the first 3 second burst. i hope to sort out the second bit at some stage, but it is by no means a necessity, would just be nicer and i am confident that as long as the battery was good it would start in any temperature. it was designed to start the engine in 3 secs in -30 degrees.

probably not of to much technical help or anything, but this 110 is on 37" creepys... and looks quite cool 4inch lift i think or maybe +2" body, or maybe 2" spring, 2" body. to be found on outerlimits if you want to find someone with experience of them, i forget the owners name.

i think the maxis tyres are all bias ply if that makes any difference.

maybe its a 90 thing, but when i ran rangie alloys on my 110 the problem was not with fitment on the rear, but on the front. on the rear they went of fine and sat flat on the drum. on the front, they hit the hub first and thus would not fit properly. i found this out a bit later when nuts would not tighten and wheels looked like they would fall off. i eventually rectified the situation with 4-5mm spacers for the front and removing the spring washers from the hub. at the back i had to do nothing for the several years i had them, apart from removing the centre caps of course.

these seem quite good for my purposes, i'd also like to express interest, i shoudl expect postage charge to uk mainland would be similar to that for ireland.

camping mats also burn exceptionally well ( i tried it in the garage when fitting some for insulation and decided upon that evidence to keep it waway from hot stuff), consider that when sticking them all over the place. granted you dont want to stay sitting in the car if its on fire and theres a whole world of other quite flammable things in there, but try to remember that when applying it.

actually you're not wrong and it pains me to read some of pirate. they seem to attract a certain type of poster and the regulars have no tolerance for any timewasting or any hint of it and it has a sort of self amplifying effect. perhaps best to say nothing if you don't really have anything constructive to say, my apologies.

has potential...

alternatively visit www.pirate4x4.com/forum and visit the rover forum. they are quite receptive to these sorts of enquiries and you may get a better response than on here...or so i'm told...

alternatively you can ghetto it and just use some carefullt folded duck tape, folded to make it thick enough, but leaving the adhesive sides on the outside to stick it in the channel. lasted a quite a few years as it was the passenger window and it doesn't get opened too often. started rattling again recently though. i should imagine the felt lasts a bit longer.

i've seen a bit of a pair of old tights stuck over the pipe where the snorkel head goes on to combat this. i think it had to be emptied reasonably often, but it probably a bit easier. not sure how much air flow it restricted, but if you pull them tight enough it would probably be ok. fialing that, some tutu mesh might suffice to keep the big nasties out.

hmm, not very well. i bought a soundproofing kit several years ago from christie acoustics, who were bj acoustics and then became noise killer, or somehting along those lines. under bonnet stuff seems ok, but it tends not to get wet too much. main problem has been the floor mats. they were meant to be 80% waterproof (a figure i presume they plucked from the air), but they're not and they fill up and retain lots and lots of water. this mostly seems due to the linoleum stuff used top and bottom, which is the best promoter of condensation i have ever come across. they should take this stuff out into the desert to begin cultivation programmes. i left some in the garage to dry once and by the next day they were completely sodden underneath... ho hum. once wet they take about a week over the radiator to dry. they're also not terribly durable in that location, they have split and the linoleum stuff is beginning to delaminate around the edge. in less harsh areas it seems fine, but down there i would not recommend it. when i find something more suitble it shall be good riddence. maybe the wright off road stuff is where its at.

www.egauges.com is a good place to get vdo rev counters for a reasonable price. it wont say land rover on it though, perhaps you can live without though.

to go wildly off topic, do where does the pinion hit the crownwheel on rover/other diffs on inependent suspension varieties.

got my eye on that now, thanks ralph.

thanks for the input folks i'll try and get some images/measurements and maybe even a sketch of what is there, its difficult to describe. a job for tomorrow i suppose the question is, is it better to hold the 2 plates (i think they are 8 or 10mm, came with the car and original nato hitch set up before i put a normal drop plate on) apart with 4 bits of tube or two extruded M shapes of what is probably 2-2.5mm steel. on account of the presence of the plate, there shouldn't be any issue with bolts pulling through, but there could be distortion or a larger lump than a hitch letting go at just the wrong time. slowly sorting out my recovery points, so am trying to do things to a reasonable standard. thanks callum

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6398 following on from the above... mine is similary rubbish, although maybe not quite as rubbish as the one les got. seems crossmember manufactures have no files to round off sharp edges or abrasives to clean up the metal and avoid outrageous weld splatters all over the place. refers to modifications required to the defender variant of the crossmember. my intention is to have a friend seal up lots of the rust traps with plate (although the webbing on a defender crossmember makes it more difficult) and a gas welder. one thing les did was put in crush tubes in order to attach a nato hitch without getting the crossmember squished. mine is similarly untubed, but has some wiggly plate in the cavity at right angles to the crossmember, presumably to prevent crushing. with the addition of some thick spreader plates front and rear is this sufficient to stop it getting crushed or will it need the original reinforcement cut out and replaced with tubing? thanks callum

ahh, so you used the loom, there was talk earlier of hooking straight up to the bulbs themselves. i think your dodgy temp gauge means its time for you to get youself a vdo gauge so you can get some real real and accurate readings. you'll also now be able to buy from the 'vision' range which are lit through like the td5 stuff rather than lit round the edge. look forward to seeing it done, although i'd like to hazard a guess it wont be too dissimilar from taking a glance in to a normal td5. oh, have you got the fuel gauge working ok? callum (i'll keep searching for an instrument pod, someday ishall find it, but for now i am still undersealing, what a horrible job. i look forward to some clean electrical work)

nice work, but come on, let us see the business end of those warning lights.

can't belive anyone let you away with such a good ( for good read shockingly bad) joke whilst carrying on the thread regardless.

they weren't from screwfix were they. i bought self tappers from there once, they had about the same hardness as plasticine. next time i shall pay the extra and get proper ones. anyone got any recommendation of suppliers of sets like screwfix, but actually made of metal? could do with gaathering an assortment of blots and certainly shall not be buying those from screwfix.