callum

dont suppose you've seen a white 110 van with galvo roll cage and rear window guards too big for the windows out on your travels round edinburgh? have seen it about a few times and i'm sure i've seen its picture in a magazine or on aforum somewhere. always been out west edinburgh though, so maybe not out your way.

here's some pics from when i got them, sorry i dont have any more to view that pic drag the little blue e from the address bar down into the explorer window. seems i got the image from a really anoying site.

i have some, good and quiet on road and very good off road not tried them in mud yet, i normally play in this stuff http://www.henniker.org.uk/images/places/s...o_u-canal12.jpg all terrains were rubbish here as the shail just sldes away from you. greenways are much better although do tend to dig down and throw big rocks at folk i think there is a pic with them on my 110 here somewhere, required abit of arch trimming to make them fit on standard height suspension. in height i think they were almost exactly 33" marked as 33 12.50 r16 on the sidewall, butsold to me as 285's, but they're about 11" wide only gripe is that they appear to wear quite quickly, otherwise they'd be pretty perfect for my needs. when they do wear out i'll take a look at the yokohama versions to see if they're made of sterner stuff..and maybe in 315 size.

its ok, its only the toyotas tat are in the water properly and they dont leak. the landie has only one towe in the water there so cant spilll any out

i belive they have fairly massive ammounts of torque, although the one i saw installed needed two radiators and additional leccy fans to keep it from overheating. have a search on google for its weight and power...and origins. if its cheap enough though...

the canter is not exactly small itself i wonder if they are maybe too big. talk of sticking into a 130 later (than 4bd1) isuzu small truck engines a few weeks ago on outerlimits, i think there were size issues. ipresume the canter lump would be of similar dimensions given it is also of small truck origin. there was beef with alison transsss and the lt230 as well i think. i have often thought of the canter engine when i've seen tow trucks with said engine around locally. i wonder if anyone's stuck one in a small 4by yet.

from a canter? do tell more...

indeed, shame we didn't ge thte 4bd1 over here. to get one of those you'll need to find an isusu npr truck or something and the sump i think needs modified and the oil filter turned round (ask on outerlimits, they'd know). regarding sticking it in the series (4jB1), if you buy a conversion kit £about 350 you wont have to cut into chassis or anything as you get adaptor mounts.

how do you work with such thin sheet with the stick welder? i use a stick welder, but find that 1.6mm sticks on 1.6mm steel is about the limit, with the power wound down as far as it will go. can you use thinner sticks or something to prevent blowing holes? even with 1.6 you have to go pretty fast to avoid blowing holes. maybe something is wrong with my technique. what did you use for your bulkhead? i remember reading your thread on the lruk forum a few years ago, but i cant remember much really.

pull off the trans cover under middle seat/cubby box. inside you'll see the linkage, which is threaded and you can adjust nuts various to increase or decrease travel accordingly, should be fiarly self explanatroy when you have the cover off. watch it move fully assembled and see if it can move fully. with mine the pin holding the linkage on fouled the case casting when i changed transfer boxes so it would never engage properly. maybe it was a slight alteration year to year or maybe i had the pin in the wrong way (could only get it in the way i had it as far as i could see). anyway, a short spell with the file, made it clear the casing and all works fine and dandy now. anywya, once you get the cover off you should be able to assess whats going on and easily rectify it. all you need is a 13 mm spanner i think...or is it 11. and a pair of pliers.

i thought the turbos were oil cooled, running like the rest of the eingine through the sump mounted cooler. i could easily be wrong though. if you can hook one up to a shorty lt77 or r380, they can sit waaaay back and distribute weight more nicely. i think they are a bit lighter than land rover lumps. just seemed that way on the crane, i've never weighed either. mpg is pretty good in a 110 on 33" knobblies, 30mpg. performance ok, not earth shattering, they only have 100 hosses as standard. held offf a td5 90 though who thought ti would be easy to overtake an old piece of carp 110 with his shiny new motor. off road, not lacking at all. still to get cooler plumbed in, although the actual unit has been in place since september. the cop lots of abuse too, like running with a split bottom hose and not much water in the cooling system and its difficult to get it to move past 88 degrees. mine used to run at 92, but i think that's because the rubbish temperature probe did not allow enough pressure in the system. i should hopefully be able to comment on tuning in a few months, most of the plumbing is here and i'm free from work on the 8th of may. should it fail to impress i think i shall throw in the towel and go seek a landcruiser

taking the top off is cool, but you have to undo the middle nut , take off the 4 bolts round the outside and them turn your allen key in the threaded bit in the middle where you took the nut off anti clockwise and you wind the top off. no big spring or anything. pretty sure that's the sequence (for four bolt) check the manual though, maybe you have to run that allen screw thing clockwise. when some idiot (ahem) stripped the thread on the bleed screw i had to take mine off, didn't look very exciting. i wish i'd replaced the gasket, or at least used instand gasket on the top seal as mine weeps a bit now. its very little and not enough to warrant taking it apart again, but would benice to have it dry. i didn't go any further than that as i was just swapping the box top. i'm sure others will have much more experience though.

shouldn't need to rub it down if you do it properly. make sure you prep it properly also, thats the only let down on my hand painted finish. i think it would have been easier to rub down my car had it been coated with steel rather than that army paint. always finish on the down stroke when applying it by brush, makes a bit difference. paint it well and with care and you shouldn't be able to tell it was done with a brush. hit up google for 'land rover, coach paint, tekaloid' should put you in the direction of a web site about coach painting with good tips, like wettin ghte ground before you begin to keep the dust down. try and do it indoors, painting on the driveway is ****, especially if the paint takes a while to dry. eventually as night falls it becomes damp and the lovely finish you've applied can start to wrinkle. its also really annoying if it rains shouldn't need ny special stuff, just a good brush ( i used a harris 'no loss' one because i am lazy). that combined with some dulux exterior gloss resulted in a good finish. that paint is pretty good, but it takes 2 days to dry. which was cool on the bonnet, wings and doors, but less cool on the bits which i couldn't bring into the garage. was even less cool doing the white of the roof as on the first night it rained and now i have a wrinkly roof thankfully its white so doesn't show to much. hand painting is greeat because its easy to touch up if you damage it (and can be bothered) and also easy to touch up if you need to change stuff or whatever. take your time and enjoy it (if you're inside). its very theraputic and immensely satisfying when you do a good job.

protektacote or some similar spelling its known as in the uk, well for the diy stuff that is. unless you want to send away your cab to be lined. available from boat chandlers and on the internet.

euro spec 80 series had electric lockers front and rear, i think most jap ones also, rest of the world it hink its an option. for what's available here, a locl 80 is a safe bet, an import would need to be checked. landcruiser II's (cant remember what their series name is, coiler of a 75) have lsd's in the back euro spec, nothing up front. i think that goes for euro spec 4 runners too, not sure of that. pretty sure jap 4-runners, 'surf's' have lsd's in the back (plenty of them dying now). patrol (gq) comes with a locker up the back i think, i'd assume its an lsd, but i don't really know. nothing up front there either. don't know about older mq patrols or the newer gu's. 80 series is i think the only one with a factory front locker. . although gwagens came with them i think.

i dont think rover axles have those little triangular fillets at the diff do they? gahh far too slow at responding was going to ask how you sorted the radius arms issue, but it doesn't look like you have radius arms in the conventional sense

how do they know what a land rover's emmission are? do they just assume that cars over a certain age are unsuitable. also what about commercial vehicles, are they also banned? you could make your 109 a commercial if they are allowed i should think. sucks to live in europe it seems

slap in some filler and save up for a new bulkhead? galvanise it and save future problems. depends how long you can keep it off the road for i suppose

east coast rover do this conversion, shall see if i can find the link. i doubt they say much about how they do it though... http://www.eastcoastrover.com/CMC110.html you can see it in this 110, but if you lok around thre may be other pics infact roll down this page a bit for some more pics http://www.eastcoastrover.com/Defenders.html

i presumo you're jasper110 in aberdeenish area. george mcclay at larbert might do such a thing. probably someone much closer to you though. trouble is, its gonna be costly to get someone else to do it. its not a particularly taxing process, but it takes time. at £30 an hour, that mounts up. a friend found a good mechanic in forres who would swap his 2.25 diesel for my old 2.5 for not too much money, but that's hardly local. also, if the garage supplies the parts it can get expensive too. how much have you budgeted for. nice thing to do, but be prepared for a big bill if you're getting it done by a professional. worth getting a few quotes. someone who knows what they're doing will probably charge more, but will be quicker. someone who doesn't may be cheaper per hour but will take longer. dont let that dicourage you though, someone might be able to help a bit better than i

would lpg not solve emissions issues or is it based on manufacturers emissions rather than actual emmissions?

a jigsaw with a metal blade also does it well, although i think you've now found what you're after.

was only able to get the impact wrench alas no drills or ratchets in the two i visited. seemed it was not man enough to do my wheel nuts at first, but it seemed to loosen up or something and now works really well. quite pleased really.

hehehe, everyone's going to be switching to air it seems. need to buy some airline and pushfit connectors from screwfix or something. plumbed in air round the garage is ace, handy for cleaning up swarf too and shooting at friends (just joking...don't do that it could potentially be quite dangerous) 'who kitted out your garage?'...'aldi baby!'

they do things differently down there... headlights and low mounted spots are of limited effectiveness underwater and to give some credit for that image here's abunch of other cool images by the same person. probably been seen before, but they're ace http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.p...4&start=480 forward and back a couple of pages for more images