callum

i think the issue is, if you're going to the bother of putting in a new engine, you might as well put in a decent one. maybe the td is not that bad, but its also not that good either. pretty lame power output and dubious longevity menas its not worth the bother these days, especially when a disco rotbox can be had for £500 for its engine.

i should think it ok to run them on 7". i've seen 285's run on 6.5" rims and my 285's which allege to be 33 12.50's on the sidewall (although i am lightly suspect as they weren't sold to me as that) run ok on 7" rims. you'll have a lot more sidewall to paly with there, so i should expect it to be less of a problem on a bigger tyre. i have heard it is more difficult to slip a bead on tyres which are pinched in more. i dont know if this is true though, i've never slipped a bead but i dont go playing on shiny rocks with tyres at 4psi either.

have a google search for haultech traction control. they made a bolt on one for land rovers. various threads on outerlimits and pirate on the subject. haultech website is not much help though.

if they have the split, which i think they do, they will be 255/100's like these... if they dont have the split they're 9.00's. i think the split was intruduced due to some cases of the middle block splitting on the 9.00 tread pattern.

as i recall your xzl's are pretty worn looking. you could consider a fresher set or maybe even the 9.00's rather than the 255's as they look a bit more aggressive http://www.expeditionexchange.com/michelin/DSC02127.jpg how do yours look compared to that? in saying that a new set of xzl's is very expensive and as you are doubtless aware, tres heavy. unfortunately, as i'm sure you're also doubtless aware, tall tyres for mixed use are not so common. another suggestion might eb swamper q78's, 36 10.50 i think. probably pretty noisy on the road and with a reasonably high wear rate. http://www.mda4x4.com/preparaciones/p_cantalejo1.jpg

should get away without a lift. just need to cliip the corners of the arches and proabbly do abit of heating and pulling to get the plastic of the arches to cover the tread completely.

http://www.landyonline.co.za/workshop/engi...mentgauges.html http://www.landyonline.co.za/workshop/pricelist.html lots of rand, but i dont know how many £'s off the top of my head or how many £'s it might cost to land one on these fair shores. i daresay gromit can answer looks good, not sure if i should go for one of these or one of the cheaper yankee ones with only egt.

was about provide a decent response, but then remembered it was talk of uaz portals i had come across. anyway, if you're interested there is a thread about them on pirate, just do a search. i think mr van snorkle had some experience of them in vietnam, he uses the name agrover there. as i recall the quality of metals used wasn't the best, but its a hazy memory of 2nd hand information, so best to seek it out for yourself. there may be mention of them on various portal threads on this forum also. i presume the gaz portals are bigger or maybe there the same, who knows..certainly not me.

i got one of those a few weeks ago, its pretty good, starts lower and lifts higher than the equivalent clarke ones. low lift is good as you can stick a hefty block of wood on the saddle and your 50 mm advantage is not a 200mm advantage.. also helpful if you occasionally work on normal low cars although you couldn't ever shove it too far under at its lowest height. downside is that its exceptionally heavy, maybe 60kgs. some folk say control isn't that good on lowering, but you just have to be very careful. big long clarke one would be nice if you have the money/space.

i love it when people register to give helpful input and not just to whinge.

i was going to buy from them, but they had been flooded the week i was looking to get a crossmember and it was all going to be a bit of a faff. they dont sell britpart ones, but they dont make their own either. the ones they sell are just spi ones as you may get from any land rover spares dealer. the advertised price was about £40 more expensive than other dealers, but there was a kick in the nuts when they said their online price was out of date and offered me it for £20 more than that. at that stage i decided it wasn't worth it and got one from famous 4. it arrived quickly from them and is dimensionally a good match. its no work of art, but its alright and at least the same shape as the original. it shall be getting some reinforcemnt and tidying up before it goes on. i did a fair bit of research before i bought it, but its really difficult to tell what you're going to get unfortunately. just make sure to use big spreader plates when you put your new one on. i found a 2ft by 1ft bit of 10mm steel the other day, i'll cut that into appropriate sizes to use front and back.

did this several years ago because the glass ones were **** and the source of all my electrical problems. tried celaning and stuff, but its just ahlf measure, much better to change to blade fuse type. to do so you need 2 of these http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...photo/fbb8u.jpg , which just about fit in the space vacated by the glass fuse holders, will need filed a bit. then you need a big old bag of crimp female blades and then clip off each and methodically replace, bob's your uncle, and it shouldn't take too long. result is reliable fuses, and also you get a few extra spaces as a bonus.

sorry i thought you were questioning if it was for a 4bt or a 6bt, which on re-reading, you weren't. i need reading glasses or something.

i thought you were talking about panels at first, but noted that its just the hitch. if it was the former, i would have suggested nuclear force. nato paint is one of the more resiliant substances i have come across. it has killed maybe 3 or 4 of my sanders just trying to get a smooth finish. it also consumed ridiculous quantities of sandpaper and even proved quite resistant to nitromors, which would tend to shift paint from only certain parts, where presumabley the paint was not applied so well. blow torch removed paint, but didn't do the aluminium too much good and whilst the flap disc could remove the paint, it also left my panels somewhat pock marked.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?act=atta...ost&id=5500 i count 6...muhahahahahhahahahhahahhha etc

i got the fire extinguisher and when looking at it, it didn't appear to have a safety pin in it. my suspicions were correct as later on in the day, my father fell down the stairs and dropped something on it, sending lots of white powder all over the hall, over carpet, wall, phone. given that it was now buggered i emptied the remainder in the garden, which of course didn't take long to fill with a white haze, ho hum.

you could go half way and get 8.25" xzl's. they are about 34" high and not so heavy as the 9.00" ones. its a fairly odd size for europe i think, but not so odd elsewhere. of course if you already have 7.50's there's maybe a lot to be said for getting those.

crownwheel is actually smaller on the toyota by about half an inch i think, but its hypoid so much stronger than the rover diff. anyway as michele says, these are for fitting to rover diffs, 24 spline at the diff end, with 27 spline at the cv end. they are to replace the later cv's that are not aeu2522 and which i dont know the part number of. they are 27 spline at the cv end as they are based on longfield's toyota cv's which are 27 spline at the cv. i presume this was to keep design and tooling costs down and maybe explains why they are a bit cheaper than ashcrofts at the mo (along with weak dollah). smo, to ashcrofts for you i should think, no funny splines to deal with at the cv end, just standard all the way.

do you konw what the MOD do regarding parts in their bases in canada? could be very much barking up the wrong tree, but they might use the dealer network rather than bringing spares with them, in which case you might be able to get your dealer to get one for you. i think there are uk bases in alberta, along with one/s in bc. might just be cheaper getting it from the uk as western says though, given dealer prices for such parts.

rovertracks do a 35 spline conversion, but i think its quite pricey. i think ben 'isuzurover' who posts on here very occasionally has done this, although i could be mistaken. you might have more luck finding him on outerlimits.

thanks for info, quick google and... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-110-Front...oQQcmdZViewItem for 110 front £750 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-101-Forwa...oQQcmdZViewItem 101 front, looks a bit crusty £150 at the mo http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-Series-10...oQQcmdZViewItem for a 109 £100 at the mo

don't work for them or anything but they're flogging some sets of their 4340 heavy duty half shat and cv combos for $600 at the moment http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=611500 first two posts, dont read the rest, i will never get the 20 minutes of my life back that the drivel after that stole might be of interest to someone, saves $50 and makes them £295.48 by today's price, which is not bad + postage of course

out of interest, what was the asking price on their stand? or was it ..if you need to ask, you cant afford it sort of thing. northern ireland might be a good place to look, if you can find out where old RUC armoured landies go to die.

the power of bolts will make it fit, you just tighten it into fitting. i would really recommend getting a friend to help as its not fun on your own. i covered my tank and guard in hammerite before fitting, then fitted the crossmember end and forced it wound to the axle end. once in place i seam sealed all the gaps between tank and guard and then chassis painted the lot to try and stop it from corroding. even though it is forced into position its not really right, the hole for the drain plug is hardly centred and its obvious its under strain. in any case its probably about a third of the cost of the genuine part. if only somebody made parts that were kind of in between in price. also i'm convinced the new sender is short.

i would have thought your time would be better spent putting on some non-rover hypoid diff axles. ashcroft do nice cv's and shafts for the d2 axles now, but you're still stuck with the rover centre, so not really gaining much. be worth getting a pair of patrol or 'cruiser axles if you have to change brackets on d2 axles to get them to fit a defender. in favour of the cruiser ones, you can get replacement shafts and cv's (like the ashcroft ones for rovers) from longfield. i don't think any special steel ones exist for gq or gu patrols yet just shriinking a ring round the bell, but i think the diffs are bigger and they may be a bit cheaper in the uk. i daresay someone with experience of this can fill you in further if you are interested.