Andrew Chua

yup, so in the morning, when it's all quiet, climb in, put the ignition to pos II, and you'll hear it. usually you should also be able to hear the 2 stage of the pump running, ie the sound changes a little after like 5 seconds. if you hear nothing, then the pump is not running. check the electrics first and if you're sure it's the pump, get a new one. now the fun begins. how to get the old one out and new one in.

if the clong sound is higher pitch (2 pieces of cast iron metal hit each other) when you hit the brakes, it could be the brake pads moving around in the caliper as they are simply a drop in when you change them. as they are constantly being moved about in the caliper, over time the front back tolerance widens and hence when you hit the brakes hard, they move forward hence you get a clong sound. alternatively if it's a lower pitch single knock sound, it could be the A-frame bush problem as it moves forward when you snap the brakes hard.

i've been bugged by a similar sounding problem, except that it happenes constantly for me. no need to drive round corners, just straight and it sounds like that already. gets louder when faster. someone told me it's the clutch bearing. wonder who's right? to take a peek into the belly of the gearbox is not somthing very cheap. hmmm. what's the power split from the t-box, as i see the rear wheels spin faster than the front when it's jacked up on all fours. 60-40? if it's 50-50 then i have a problem and i'd check the differentials. hmmm.

it's the factory default size on alloys. no problem. will fit.

actually the MAF does quite a bit. in my case, before i changed it, i had problems going up a long ramp onto a highway, had to downshift to 3rd when previously i could do it in 4th. after i disconnected it, wow, the car was back to normal while the $tealership told me to change all my injectors!!

yup, you'll need to drop the t-box. have been there done that. there are 2 gears that you need to change. This is what the kit looks like. http://www.facebook.com/photos.php?id=6939...mp;id=693928001 it will help if you have the LT230q/t overhaul manual, you will know exactly which gear is being replace. it looks easy, but playing lego with the gears is no fun when you need to get it back into running conditions. pick someone who really knows the LT230 or else, it could end up leaking lots after.

most likely the bushing at the a-frame. i had this problem for over 2 years. i kept thinking that the problem was in the t-box. cheap to solve. hard to get the stupid bush off.

this j nut is similar to a cage nut (on a 19" equipment rack) which has a metal bracket that clips on to the hole in the bulkhead. what you need to do is tie a piece of wire thru the nut while you try to wiggle it into place. if it slips the piece of wire still holds it. if not, it's into the darkness of the bulkhead and you'll be cursing if you had only the right number needed. happy fitting.

well, i had a problem with mine before. if you really want to know if the engine is running off wrong data values. unplug it and run the engine. go for a drive. feel if there's any difference. if there is, means the engine is taking in wrong data from the sensor. if the sensor value is too far off, the engine ignores it and uses a default value from the ECU. when unplug, the engine assumes that the sensor is dead and uses the default value. do bear in mind that this can lead to a little more black smoke under harsh accleration. i've ran my engine for over 15k km without this sensor until i decided to replace it just before the annual inspection. won't do any harm to the engine.

okie, worth a try over this weekend. i'll try to unscrew and yank it out before attempting to butcher the entire box.

yes, that's the one in the picture. so i gather this if i heard your right, figure out how to remove the entire heater box by removing the 2 bolts and nuts that hold it to the bulk head. that means opening up part of the dash board? then proceed to undo the screws to finally get to the matrix. and when done, pray hard that you don't bend anything when you put it back or you'll have a leak again.

Recently i've begin to smell coolant when i get into the truck in the morning and my water level was dropping all the time. Yes, i've temporary bypassed the heater matrix with a pipe to solve the leak for now. How do i remove the matrix for checking? it looks like the heater box is all riverted up. do i need to drill them out? or is there an easier way? once out, do i need to do a pressure test? are these matrix repariable? Thanks Andrew

ok, i've put the entire truck up on the ramp and ran all the wheels lifted off the ground together. the sound seems to be coming from the front end of the truck. engine was too loud to hear while under the truck. ok, sounds pretty dangerous, but i'm still alive. the U-joints are all ok and there's no unusual vibrations when driving. bearing? or differential as the next suspect? or what else could possibly be wrong. the guy at the workshop has no idea too. shall i remove the front prop and try driving around on rear wheels? will i screw up anything this way? the strange thing i noticed is that the rear wheels spin faster than the front when they are all lifted off the ground, so there must be like 60/40 split at the t-box?

yup, oil drip from handbrake drum = rear seal on t-box. just had this problem a few weeks ago and thanks to the guys around here, i've gotten it nailed. easy work, prop off, drum cover off, dismantle the brake shoes, clean them very well as if not done well like mine, it will stick when parked up for a long time. yank of the seal, put new one, replace everything else and you're done after topping up the t-box oil.

So you're hoping they'll give you a new truck?

It seems that there are 2 sizes of UJ. one the 75 and 82mm. i believe it's the 75mm but i'm really not sure. Seems like some people recomend the hardy splicer (GKN) UJ. Are they better that the original or will I be ok with the genuine bit?

ok, i'll have a check when i arrive at the office tomorrow. the car park floor is cleaner there as it's new. So basically i just crawl under, grab the prop and wiggle it. problem might be on the front one. what's the part number for the UJ? should i just change all 4 of them? any recomendations to what brand should i go with this round? planning to ship in a fuel pump for the vehicle soon, so i guess i better get all my bits in together.

As of the past 2 days, I'm beginning to hear a strange 'wonking' sound from my landie when it reaches 60km/h. If i hold steady at the speed (with the accelerator), i hear it continuously. If i drop speed or pick up, it goes away. if i clutch in, it's goes away. Free revving of the engine in neutral, moving and stationary does not create this sound. Is this a sign of failure of anything major in the gear box or is something screaming for attention that it's not getting? Could it be a sign of vibration which could mean the mounting? Clutch plate? fork? release bearing? I'm starting to get a little frustrated of late as various bits seem to be breaking down one after another. on the exterior, my landie looks like she just left the showroom a day ago, but on the inside it seems like there more than what is desirable.

Is this vehicle a Td5? As far as i know they do not spring back. kinda dumb, but i seldom ever need to manually unlock it so it doesn't bug me. it's the same on the rear door.

Hi all, Yes, it's time for me to change the dreaded fuel pump. at 135k km it's time to say good bye to the exisiting one and hello to a new one. It's just starting to whine. I've taken part in the pump changing exercise before but the question now is, how different is the ALLMAKES fuel pump vs the original item from land rover? The ALLMAKES pump is a fraction of the cost of the geuine part. Has anyone tried it? Any good? I better order my pump soon before the existing one decides to throw in the towel on me anytime. The next question, what are the bits for the factory fitted power windows on a Td5 defender? I have after market carp fitted by the dealship which comes loose every other month as the vehicle came with manual windows. Supposing that I wish to junk all that carp, what are the parts that I need to piece the puzzle together and have the electric windows working the right way? Thanks!! Andrew

so i can say that it's sticking because there's oil on them and it's starting to gunk up?

okie, thanks guys. Having that assurance, i guess it's not to much drama for the moment. Will get to it eventually then, won't have to be on the urgent list.

Hi all, I recently noticed that my hand brake drum will not release immediately when i release the hand brake when the truck has been parked on an incline. So in other words, when you let go the hand brake and the foot brake, the truck seems stuck. however, when you rock it a little, or engage gear and move a little, it will unstick itself and all is well. It doesn't happen when you park on level ground. As you may have heard, i've just had my leaking oil seal replaced when i saw the oil dripping down from where the hand brake drum is. 1. is there anything serious about to happen? 2. or is the hand brake cable just over-tighten as it's now pretty stiff when pulling up as compared to before? 3. or have I totally gotten the problem wrong and it's the (some other part in the drive train) that are sticking? Regards Andrew

no difference in running temperature on mine. all's well. as mentioned somewhere on the forum, that the RoW spec Td5 do not have an EGR fitted. So removing it will not harm the engine in anyway.

series III box There are 2 levers. One red and one yellow. (3 if you have overdrive which is green) Red back -> High Red forward -> Low Yellow up (not depressed) -> 2x4 Yellow down -> 4x4 You cannot select low range 2x4. When you put the box into low, it's in 4x4. To get out of 4x4 in high range, you need to shift to low range and the yellow level will pop up. Then you shift it back to high range.