DefcoL

Qualities we will loose if grown elsewhere Cant make out the year but seems to have bulge on bonnet...... are you suggesting leak by deign? dont know but if you found its location and a high res camara..... send in your shots

The X-Eng ground anchor is very light and easily mounted on the front or roof. Fold up ones tend to weigh a lot more and not as easy to handle.

had to put this up

As above but i can play that tune in just 15x disks, 1x hacksaw blade, 1x 2.5lb hammer and a laser marker to make sure precision cuts are made, if you don’t cut exactly to the shape of the replacement it wont fit. Then you have the fun of trying to weld on the replacement. My guess is that it would interesting at best. Q; why do you want to remove it?

Just got to try that one on my mate Any one got any info on the marlow rope?

A General thread on synthetic winch line. As per topic title I was wondering which line is best and have been told that all have their faults and good points. There are a lot of very experience competitors on this forum So.. What is most important to you, certified, brand, durability, price, or what your mate recommends? Are there any comparison charts available? How do you care for your line? What are the best ways to keep it in good shape? What are your do's and don’ts regarding maintaining its durability? Are there any recommendations for truck weight, wheelbase, tyre size or dose that not matter? For many beginners it is a minefield so what do you think?

Ok so I have a 110 with a vin plate that says 3050kg..... not looking good I also wanted to check the vin code and found this bit of info : Decoding the 17 digit Land Rover Chassis Number (VIN) It will always start with "SALL" if it doesn't be very suspicious and check it's authenticity. 1st digit S = Region and S is Europe 2nd " A = U. K. 3rd " L = British Leyland-Land Rover 4th & 5th Digits LB = Sieries III's, lightweights and Stage 1 LD = 90 and 110 LH =Range Rover Mk1 LJ = Discovery LN = Freelander LP = Range Rover Mk 2 LT = Discovery Series II 6th Digit = Wheelbase A = 88" or Freelander, & 109" on Range Rover Mk1 C = 109" and 1 Ton Truck G = 100" H = 110" and 147" K = 127" M = All Specials R = 110" S = Military 110" V = 92.3" 7th Digit = Body Type A = Truck cab & Soft Top B = 3 Door Station Wagon or Freelander E = 2 Door Crew Cab F = 4 Door Crew Cab H = High Capacity Pick-Up M = 5 Door Station Wagon and 7 Door S W R = Monteverdi RRover 8th Digit = Engine B = 2.5 4 cyl Turbo Diesel C = 2.5 N A Diesel D = 2.5 4Cyl Petrol F = 200 & 300 Tdi 2.5 4 Cyl Turbo Diesel G = 2.25 Diesel and Freelander V6 H = 2.25 Petrol M = 3.9 V8 Injection P = 2.6 6 Cyl Petrol V = 3.5 V8 Petrol (Carbs) Y = 2.0 T16 Petrol Z = 3.9 Izuzu Diesel 8 = Td5 9th Digit = Steering & Transmission 1 = RHD 4 Speed 2 = LHD 4 Speed 3 = RHD Auto 4 = LHD Auto 5 = RHD 4 Speed + Overdrive 6 = LHD 4 Speed + Overdrive 7 = RHD 5 Speed 8 = LHD 5 Speed 10th Digit = Model - Year A = up to 1983 B = 1985 E = 1988 F = 1989 G = 1990 H = 1991 J = 1992 K = 1993 L = 1994 M = 1995 N = 1996 ? = 1997 ? = 1998 W = 1999 ? = 2000 1 = 2001 2 = 2002 11th Digit = Assembly Location A = Solihull F = CKD V = South Africa 12th to 17th Digits are the Chassis Serial Number at least I now know how to read the Vin/chassis/frame number.

Hi been looking on net for PCD charts but cant find a complete one P38 PCD 5 x 108 .... is this correct?

yes seems that way ..... will let you know if it works when all plugged in. again thanks

done the test good powere to motor. repluged the spare (just the power) and it is now spinning on command. dont know why it had a change of mind but it means I can swap them over and it should work,, I hope. Will do that tomorrow and let you know.. many thanks for helping me Lawrence

am going to garage now have you got a number I can call you on?

ok.... nice bright bulb on red/ white with switch on/ign on

Right will do back in 30 mins

thank mate I will get hold of a meter later meanwhile will a bulb and wire be enough? M reg disco

no AC do you mean the large connector or the small on? thanks

pic of spare blower

Hi all I am not an auto electrician and get mind blanks when looking at all the different coloured wires. I can wire up a bulb/radio accessory, able to check/change fuses but get very lost on the wiring maps. I need some simple instruction to help me get some heating back in the cab. My heater blower has stopped working and I have checked all the fuses on the fuse panel under steering wheel, all ok I have replaced the heater fan switch panel. Still no fan I have plugged in a spare blower; power is getting to the powered vent in the blower unit but still no fan action. Can any of you gurus tell me all the things to check and where they are located please…. Are there linked circuits that will cause this problem? Thanks in advance Lawrence

Hi chris I have done quite a few of these now but always over the pit. its not only a struggle to get it out even with Two of us but relocation is more of a struggle. Sure with the right equipment.......it may be a one man job , but sounds like you don’t have all the proper facilities/tools/knowledge. My advice would be not to tackle it on your own. have a good read up and get some knowledgeable chap/friend to help you. Remember these items are very heavy and can do a lot of damage to the human body.... Safety first is a must

10 minutes! Mark you just got your self a job.....

Tyres can if balanced go out of balance if knocked / weight movement / loss of balance weight, all can result in change of wobble speed. 285/75/16.... this size of tyre should measure around 11.25 inch across, so if fitted to a 7 or more normally an 8J rim, you can get rubbing on the rear spring hanger on full articulation. You know under acceleration the front lifts and the rear sits. So when going up hill the rear arches sit lower due to the rear push and some help from gravity, so slight articulation & wide tyres can result in some rub. You can over come this with wheel spacers or having better-offset rims, spring lift might also help in (gentle) up hill rub.

yes I know. but what do you want new or used?

Remember that someone has to get them off the truck, lay them in position, get them out of the mud(most likely with mud that could easily double the weight) relocate them on the truck ready for the next obstacle Larger ones might seem logical to bridge wider/taller obstacles but not on the weight side of the debate unless you have the hulk as a helper Where would you mount your large ramps? how much would they weigh..... Do your back a favor and get some waffle boards, someone on here should be able to recommend where to get them from.

Sounds painfull :o speedy recovery tony

I will Be there with 28x4 will be first time on that side of things so am looking forward to it. I am a political on this on so made the decision 20% ish based on other traders and 80%ish on location as am from Bucks