g90

Scrap my previous, did a bit of poking and could only get 30v out got a suitable replacement on the way from fleebay

Morning, Although not land rover related, there is a wealth of knowledge on here and figured someone could help. I'm helping my friend with his JCB diesel ride on mower which is basically a Countax underneath. It has more electronics that a Saturn 5 rocket which have spat the dummy and are all going to get snipped out, just need to confirm the rectifier wiring. The rectifier has 6 wires, here's my guesstimate on cable colours 2 X orange: Stator (confirmed) Red/Black: Rectified 12v Brown: ?? Yellow: ?? I can only assume that the brown and yellow maybe for ignition feedback voltage and lights perhaps, anyone any ideas? Cheers G

Knocked one up tonight from some device of which i am not familiar. Its was a set of paper trays on wheels so the paper pushers could literally push papers around! anyway its much better as a welding trolley and has the benifit of being free, not expecting the office castors to live forever but when they let go ill fit some sturdier ones

A cracking investment given the price. i used to use one of these regularly for marine battery cables, big and small and they always gave a good crimp. As Boydie mentioned, solder as-well if possible and if you want a really pro looking finish, a bit of adhesive heat shrink over the top works a treat

toying with the idea of doing this myself, although im worried as to how much other rotten stuff im going to find along the way!

what he said ^^^ give everything a good dose of plus gas, or similar for a day or two before you plan changing it

My steering box is now excreting oil at a fair old rate and was wondering if anyone has had any joy changing the seals themselves. I know the drop arm will be stubborn to say the least, so that will be removed by grinder and most probably replaced by a dicso one. Im sure some people will say buy a recon box but ive heard a few tales of these lasting but a few weeks before making a mess of the drive, plus im on a bit of a budget

take a look at this http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/home-made-rocksliders-57629.html

my bonnet looks like someone has been morris dancing on it, has a spare wheel mount on it, which i never have or ever will use and this new (to me) bonnet is cheap as chips

cheers gents

Does anyone know if a bonnet off a 2005 will fit my 1994 defender? cheers

http://www.westcountrybuildings.com/Steel-Building-Services.asp good deals on there

i bought some crystal untis from bolt on bits about a year ago, they look good, wouldn't say that they are any better at lighting up the road. I have a pair of 8" spotlights mounted on an A bar which really make the difference, obv cant use em with someone coming the way though!

surely buying clear lenses and coloured LED bulbs will achieve the same results for a fraction of the price?

This is a nice example http://www.log-rover.co.uk/index.html

i had the same problem, in my case it was the pivot http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=71173#entry607557

i had a cheapo machine mart gun, one battery failed after about 6 months and the other went a year later. you get what you pay for, i'm now on the lookout for another

Bridge it from underneath, then fill and sand

I waxoyled my chassis with my 25lt machine mart compressor, as previously mentioned its a stop start job. I tried using it for spraying but it didn't really cut the mustard so borrowed my mates larger 50lt. Try a local air/hydraulic specialist for a good second unit maybe?

My Micra is now out of action leaving my 90 as my main vehicle. Its fitted with heavy duty springs which provides a relatively smooth ride with a ton of sand in the back, but this does cause some problems with fuel economy and doesn't leave much room for the dog or the shopping. It spends most of the time unloaded and driving over any kind of bump at the moment literally beats me up! Anyone got any spring, and maybe damper suggestions that isn't gonna damage my glass back?! Cheers

check the earth strap that goes from the battery to the chassis, mine snapped at the chassis end and would give you a similar problem

i got an unbranded one for £10 and fitted it a fornight ago, bit of a pain to change, the best method was to leave the fulcrum in the fire for 5 min before knocking the old one out! as for longevity i can only tell you its lasted a fornight. as i dont do too much extreme stuff off road i decided a cheapo unit would do

is there not another earth for switching mannualy or is it still done through the door switches?

My interior light has stopped working. i am getting 12v at the light and if i earth it at the light itself it works. i have tried a new switch which made no difference. Surely it can only be where the switch earths, does anyone know where this is?

spend a few more pennies and use adhesive heatshrink, well worth it in my opinion, as for cleaning the wires i would use contact cleaner and scotchbrite