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Found this and it made me laugh my ass off: Rangerover advert on fleabay I also found this description which is fantastic and a must read - Dope BMX bike

Front shocks are fine but i'm struggling to find the rears which are on some custom rear mounts so need to be eye fitting to pin, like a standard shock (but not in length!) and not the pin/pin fitting which gwyn and llama 4x4 sell/stock....

I'm looking for some replacement shocks for my new truck (1985 D90) which the egit who sold it to me sprayed the whole underside blue .... including the shocks and so the seals are all goosed now! I've run procomps before and these would work well as replacements, need +4 or +5's if I can get them as i've got quite highly extended shock mounts on the rear and larger turrets on the front Does anyone know where I can buy them from? as I'm struggling to find some!

Anyone know if the HOFS boys and mouse will be at Billing this year??

The format sounds good and I would really like to do this event this year but my new boggers might have to go on a diet!!

Very true, will finish my first angle orthagraphic projection working drawings on a back of a fag packet and speak to NOR and P&P, I'm heading towards getting them to fab up 75% of the cage for me and i'll do the rest with the aid of a coded welder friend.

I'll be starting the build of my new comp vehicle soo, and wanted to know what people thought about the rollcage. Its a discovery cab based vehicle and as is will be bull nosed and tray backed the cage will not be an off the shelf option So..... Option 1 - do I get NOR, or P&P to fab me the cage up and I fit it myself or.... Option 2 - Do I get a bender and tool the cage up myself, i've got the inhouse bending and welding and fabrication gear at my disposal so this might be the better option to achieve the tight 'custom' fit that I'm after. or... Option 3 - Start with a rear hoop and front hoop supplied by NOR or P&P and then custom fab up my own trayback, bullnose, winch trays, and roof bars which I'm currently hammering out the design for! This all leads me onto my next issue - tube, it will be CDS as a minimum, not designed to MSA spec as only used as a toy and challenge vehicle, but was possibly thinking of using T45 to cut the weight down, any idea on prices and stockists? CDS would be 45-48mm 2.5/2.6mm wall thickness for the main tubes. Any idea's thoguhts welcome!

I'm currently looking into buying a 300tdi auto, but I've been advised to buy one that was made before 1995 as it will not have the 'Electronic Diesel Control' fitted to it. Does anyone know what this looks like and how to identify it on the vehicle?????

I think there is something wrong with it... there's too much bodywork on it to haul around!! As it is you'll smash your headlights, indicators front and rear, rear side windows and possibly the alpine windows, so chop most of the body off and bull nose and trayback it!!! it'll be a lot easier to position and drive, plus lighter and more agile. Then get it caged up properly by one of the professional companies, North off road and Whitbred spring to mind as respected companies which will supply and fit roll cages.

From what I've been told about the vehicle, the identity of the chassis is unknown, other than it was an 'imported rangerover' = not very legit!!! and the vehicle is log booked as the 90 from which it uses only the body work, bulkhead is S3 even, and possibly gearbox and transfer box. Based on what it is, I'm going to walk away from it and not touch it with a barge pole!

Sure this has been answered before so here goes: I'm currently looking at buying a 100" hybrid. It consists of an imported rangerover chassis and running gear, extended original body, and a 200tdi engine out of a discovery. Its currently log booked as the 90 which it uses its body only from what I can tell, therefore whats the consequence for me taxing it etc...... ? Does it need an SVA? Should it be Q plated? What happened to the ID off the rangerover chassis donor as surely this should be the vehicle ID? I know this topic has been banded around before, so can someone (mods???) point me in the right direction?? Thanks!

Hi, Weve got a 4l 2000 series 2 discovery running on LPG but shortly after it was serviced it started to have backfiring/lumpy running issues, and this may be down to the spark plug gaps not being 'reduced' to fire it on lpg! However, does anyone know what the reduced gap should be????

Fook-a-doodle do! Thats gorgeous!

In that respect I'd recommend trying some clubman level challenges, the ones organised not to far away from you by the Midland Offroad Club (http://www.midlandoffroadclub.co.uk/challenge.html), would be ideal as they are friendly and even though they are competitions you can have an awesome day working within your own experience at your own pace with marshalls and other competitors around you there for advice if you are unsure. Also what about your co-driver? Try and get an experienced one, I've done a few of the Howling Wolf events last year, and would be willing to sit in with you before and on an event if you wanted?

Thanks to the organisers and all the marshalls, had a great day despite needing a recovery out of the outback hehe!!!!

Eeeek! Looks like I have been replaced then! Thanks Andrew (zardos) for not having the backbone or the decency to TELL ME or even reply to my email, words do not adequitely describe ungrateful people like you! Right, rant over! Apologies for the slight !!

Is that me or have I been replaced????

Stuff the P38 and buy an Audi Quattro A4 or A6 advant! I sold my P38 for an A4 advant with the 150bhp 2.5 v6 diesel, absolutely awesome and flawless returning upto 48mpg on a run. Unless you need the P38 for towing heavy trailers etc, then I'd always stick with the audi's!

I'm free to co-drive if any one needs one!

Guessing probably not 100% genuine parts fridge! All the plugs and leads seem fine, breathers clear. Having just been out in it, under acceleration / load it pulls like a train and roars like it should do through 4 branch stanless headers, but at low revs it just seems to run lumpy and airey, does that make any sense!???

I've got a 3.5 v8 running on twin SU's in my Not owned it for long, and so not really run it. However, when I have done despite holding good oil pressure it sounds very 'lumpy' and almost as if its missing, therefore any tips on investigation / diagnosis? Was thinking of checking all leads, dizzy and coil tomorrow to see if anything obvious is adfrift, could it be that the carbs are out of balance ??? I know the previous owner fitted a new dizzy cap and leads after he killed the last one doing the Eastnor Castle mud run in the truck this year. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! (apart from throw it away and fit a diesel!! !) Thanks in advance. (The wiring in this thing is frightening....... )

Was wondering which diesel engines were used in the RangeRover Classics and what the production runs were, as I was thinking about a 200/300tdi model, but when were these installed as factory standard?

Cheers guys spoke to Glyn this morning, all sorted see you there on Sunday!

Details for RR services clicky ere Thought that they kept them in stock? let us know if you find out! Cheers

Yep looks fine, forgot that they did those kits! Just check the closed length of the shocker on full articulation, as with that kit the shocker assembly will be 2 - 3 inches longer. Also a quick call to Gwyn Lewis wouldn't go amiss to check there compatibility!