Mark

If you want to add eyes above the bumper line, then D-Rings are the way to go: I here they are attached to my IIa, but they are exactly the same for a defender: They are best used in pairs, with a bridle between them - ie a strap or rope attached to both of the eyes, and another long rope attached to the centre of the bridle to whatever is recovering you/being recovered. hth Mark

Mo, I think they are related to post counts - I have no idea what the thresholds are though. I have only noticed the 4 boxes recently so I suspect there are a couple of people who broke through that threshold - possibly 5k... Mark

Having Driven and Co-Driven in both single car teams, and multi car ones, I would say that Mo has it spot on. If the driver doesn't trust the co-driver, and is always second guessing, then everything takes twice as long. If the driver is trying to direct the winching, it also dosn't work. The best co-drivers need to be just that imho. They need to have driven a similar car in a similar situation to know how to direct the driver. Equally, the driver needs to know what co-driver/winch guy is trying to achieve, so really needs to have some experience of that side too...

you can buy them direct from landiebox i believe...

I use 35L ones, and I put them in the back of my disco:

Matt, I am planning to use a D1 for that sort of thing - 1996 5 Door, rather than 3, but I am still trying to get the vehicle prepped. First thing I did was to build the drawers for the back. These effectively bring the floor up level with the top of the wheelarches, giving a bigger area for boxes to be stacked, whilst still giving access to stuff in drawers. The seats will be split - the 60 will be left in place (there are 3 of us) and the 40will be folded up (or probably removed), and the floor built up to the same level as the drawers. Not a huge amount of help I am afraid, and I haven't decided what boxes to use either, so I will be interested to see what else is suggested. Cheers Mark

Dave, drop Ivan a line - he had this done on his discovery, so may have a good idea...

True, but in those positions, you have 2 options - either drill the blanks and fit other swithces (toggle switch would be easiest) or pick up a couple of 2nd had switches off eBlag/at an autojumble/ from anyone breaking a 200 tdi discovery and just use those switches - they fit properly, and can be wired to light up with the rest of the dash etc quite easily...

What switches do you already have in the binacle around the steering wheel? Many disco's only have the heated window, fog light, rear wash and rear wiper. This leaves 4 spare switch positions that you can get another switch for, and use that... If you have the extra radio controls, then obviously these positions are taken up, but that's what I have used. Mark

not on a series axle...

I'd probably use the filler plug on the diff.... but feel free to turn it over if it works for you ... There's obviously only oil leaks on one side of the vehicle, as once side is rusty, and the other is oily... possibly the transfer box needs topping up...

Thanks James. Much appreciated. Will compare to what I have lying around...

This seems to have been postponed according to the website - anyone know anything more? was actually quite looking forward to going to a different show... Cheers Mark

James, much appreciated, thanks...

I'm glad you like them Mo. Now, what do you think about my new storage solution for my Discovery? Mark

Moved to the defender forum, as you will likley get some more relavent replies here. Welcome Mark

James, any chance you could do a picture of them side by side? Mark

Are they the same in terms of fitment and inlet and outlet poisitons and angles? Thanks Mark

As a start, it is worth reading the forum charter (also linked to under the title): We strongly encourage input from anyone with something releavent, regardless of what they own now - Look at dirtydiesels Mog axled g-wagen thread for example! We strongly encourage questions from people new to their vehicles, but we encourage use of the search function even more! However, if your comments don't really contribute to the discussion, then they will be removed. With all due respect, adding 'here here' to a topic does not further the discussion... As I said, read the charter - it's short but it gets the idea across. Mark

We haven't changed the moderation policy, but we have had a large influx of new members, who maybe don't know the standard to which we like to work. Most people who come here do so because it is strongly on topic and the only way to keep it that way is to enforce the moderation rules. This is really just to let people know why some of the less useful replies and threads are diappearing without the need for mods to send a pm to everyone involved.... Mark (a mod...)

Ryan, routing along the top of the chassis is pretty easy to be honest. moreso than trying to find a neat way into the cabin IMHO.. this is how I did mine: Breathers on a D1 just in case it is any help. Mark

Good work martin! looks really neat - will be good to see how it looks with the lids for the lockers and stuff. Mark

I came across one that was 2RSJ earlier, but I don't think it meant it had an RSJ on each side... Have since ordered some bearings from Simply Bearings who stocked it and will ship it first class. Cheers Mark

Lawrence, you have the discovery version, rotated to that position as the floor stops the caliper being in the same position as on a defender. On your disco however, that bit of floor might not be there anymore!

OK, from what I can tell, from various sources, the suffix for shielded bearings is Z (or ZZ or 2Z for a shield on both sides). For sealed bearings, the suffix is RS or 2RS to show it is sealed. Someone quoted '2RSH' as the suffix - anyone know what the H means? The RS website does not show it, and Brammers (my local bearing place) didn't have anything on the shelf, so I am none the wiser... Cheers Mark