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I think you'll find Bearmach's urethane bushes are actually Super Pro although it appears that Bearmach get the steel bits made in the UK rather than use the Oz made bits. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=23795 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=23795

As the fella's above have said, if going urethane it's only Super Pro, Super Pro or Super Pro. Designed and cast in Australia, they really are a superior bush to any other urethane bush that I'm aware of and superior in design to OE IMO. I've spoken to one of their design engineers a few times now and they really do think about what and how the bush works, and any new Land Rover ones are tested by a Land Rover shop just down the road from their factory on touring (expedition) vehicles and rock crawlers. I lived/worked for quite a few years on a farm (1700 acres, cattle) in the middle of nowhere and travelled dirt/gravel/carp roads everyday. I live closer to town now but still travel dirt/gravel/carp roads everyday for work, and the first bushes I installed are still like new after something like 150,000km. The only OE bush left on mine is the rear lower (axle end) trailing arms, all others are Superpro by now. Ride quality didn't change. I did get a little more (very little) flex out of the front end with some Haultech Holey bushes in the axle end of the radius arms, (I use 10" stroke dampers) but you need to replace them every twelve months due to the design. I'm very close to full stroking the shocks still, and the 17" free length springs are starting to unseat off their perches. (I can post some flex pics up if needed) Some (most ?) urethane bushes are miles too hard and their designs generally mimic the OE bush, whereas Super Pro redesign the bush where appropriate, eg the chassis end of the lower rear trailing arms and use an appropriate durometer urethane for each bush. Some are actually softer than OE but there is more mass of bush due to the design so it all works well. For example the bushes mentioned above use thicker steel plates, a tapered bush design and circumferential grooves to allow better up/down flex. They work very well. The front radius arm bushes also feature a similar design.

You fella's might be interested in seeing this Duramax in a 130. http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/73516-duramax-powered-defender.html

The couple of times I've had to replace a steering rack in the past a Magnefine filter was a condition of warranty (and provided) by the rebuilder.

Instead of the extra work pulling injectors, just watch the pushrods after you've removed the rockers and when both are 'rocking' ie. they both start to move at the same time on any given cylinder that's TDC. Pop the springs and do the seals. On petrol engines rather than string you can also use compressed air with an adapter threaded into the spark plug hole.

Fair enough, and to be honest I'd rather run a good ceramic based coating to reduce temps but I had rolls on the shelf left over from racing days many years ago, discussed the potential problems (eg potential fatigue cracking) with an ex-marine diesel fitter that told of the extensive use in the big marine diesels he worked on (from the turbo's back) so went ahead and wrapped the dump pipe. Made a huge difference to heat infiltration into the cabin (what I was mainly after) and reduced a little noise too from the 3" pipe. Interesting to note that when talking to a 4wd exhaust system manufacturer here, they accidentally discovered a side benefit from ceramic coating the dump and 3'of exhaust on a turbo diesel, they picked up 5 or so HP on a Nissan TD42T with a 3" dump and exhaust. They backed to back this to confirm. Seems like the increased velocity downstream of the turbine helped evacuate the gasses a little better, just as it's claimed in a naturally aspirated engine primary header tube.

That's OK, as I disagree with you There have been numerous problems with the P38 style Rover diff in the rear of 110 and 130's here in Oz, they really don't seem to be able to take any punishment. A number of owners have retrofitted the Sals. As for need to spread the case, you can mostly pry the centre out with some tyre irons, it doesn't use much pre-load or take much to pop out. (and the same goes for the D60, which is beefier in the tubes, they really are heavy)

Good wrap should be silica based, not fibre glass so you shouldn't get any glass stuck in hand syndrome I run Thermotec header wrap from the dump pipe of a the 300Td all the way to the back of the t/case and it works well. To waterproof it you either use their silicon based aerosol sealant paint, or if cheap like me use a silicon based high temp paint (I had some matt black stuff) and give it a liberal going over with that. Mines been on for 40,000km now and still looks fine.

I'd be donning a flame proof suit too I'd take a Sals over any Rover diff ever used/fitted to a Defender. The heavily braced/trussed Rover rear ends have been used to replace Sals assemblies that pulled axle tubes from the centres in certain (overloaded usually) applications, but then a trussed and braced Sals would be stronger again. A number of owners have replaced P38 style Rover rrear ends in late model Defenders here with Sals diffs, they were sick and tired of the constant rebuilds. It's shame GKN and Rover down specced the D60 when they built it under license from Dana, oh, except for the centre where they at least use four sun gears rather than the standard US two pin diff. and FWIW, 130 Sals axle tubes are beefier (thicker walled) than 110's. ie. they are the same OD, smaller ID in the tube. 130 tube = approx 8+mm wall 110 tube = approx 6mm wall You knew someone would eventually bite, didn't you

As Martin said, bushing the intermediate shaft bore is a pretty common mod here (Australia) as the bore often elongates in the aluminium housing, creating the leak in the first place. Just replacing the O ring is a temporary fix.

I know this is an oldie, but I was doing a Google search the other day after my pump failed and this thread turned up. Anyway, if anyone was still wondering the pictured OE pump is an Airtex from Spain, and FWIW they've gone back to a pressed metal impeller.

answered here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...st&p=362693

The NLGI 00 grade is the second lightest grease grade. I had the specs somewhere, probably in my old computer, One Shot was a pretty average Li soap + mineral oil + 3% MoS2 grease. Interesting info on grease grades "NLGI Grades 000 to 1 are used in application requirings low viscous friction. Examples include enclosed gear drives operating at low speeds and open gearing. Grades 0, 1 and 2 are used in highly loaded gearing. Grades 1 through 4 are often used in rolling contact bearings where grade 2 is the most common. Grease Consistency — Lower numbers are softer and flow better, while higher numbers are firmer, tend to stay in place, and are a good choice when leakage is a concern. The table above compares the most common NLGI grades with household products that have similar consistencies." from here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NLGI_Grade

The correct bearing is available as a separate item to the timing cover now, most of the Aussie wholesalers are selling it, and I assume it comes from Europe. (SKF ??) <edit> actually $115 retail now http://www.british4wd.com/xcart/product.ph...t=57&page=1 Around A$80 vs A$440 for a complete timing cover.

That's unfortunate Paddy, as White Spirit is what everyone uses here, unless that name means another solvent in the UK.

Engine and gear oils are Newtonian, in that as they get hotter, they get thinner (reduced viscosity) so yes, pressure will drop if the oil gets too thin (hot) If you monitor oil temps you can plug the numbers into this calculator http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/3655/VI.html to work out actual viscosities if you have an oil tech data sheet. A T/PDS usually lists 40* and 100*C viscosities and the oils viscosity index (VI). If you have two of these you can work out the third easily with that calculator too.

Dragging this one up from the past..... Did you end up doing it Jim ? I've just been contemplating the same thing. Did a big end (it's been on its way for a while looking back over the oils tests from the last few years. It appears the bottom shell had been dropped before fitting putting the shell out of round. There are some lovely flats on the back of the shell and stress fractures all through it) so have been thinking of building another short motor after slapping this one back together when new bearings turn up.

They do and it should be fine. I used a second hand Sachs clutch on my first race car sixteen years ago and it worked well, every bit as good as the AP Racing one that replaced it, and God only knows how it had been abused before i used it. http://webcat.zf-trading.com/index.asp?LKZ...32,14,1632,1614

No correlation at all. EGT's are a function of fuel quantity and injection timing and to a lesser extent inlet air temp. EGT's vary too much and too fast with throttle position, there is no way you'd pick anything else influencing them. I also believe you can have seriously high oil temps without it necessarily showing in the coolant temp too much. In the past I've had some serious big end knock hammering over a mountain pass, yet EGT's were kept on the sane side of 720* and coolant temps didn't exceed 103* IIRC. Ambient was around 27-30*. Engine oil was Delavc 1 (full synthetic) and the engine noise didn't dissipate for around 5km down the other side of the pass, yet coolant temps returned to 'normal' within 200m of the crest. I didn't have oil pressure or temps monitored in those days.

That's a bummer as most garages prefer the AP one here to the Valeo, less 'issues'.

No such thing as dumb Q's in my book, only dumb mistakes from not asking

FWIW I regularly read 65-75*C on the R380 just zipping down the highway at a leisurely 100km/h, and it doesn't have an oil cooler either. (insulated thermocouple on the transfer tube) The t/stat (if fitted) opens at 74*C, or at least the one I have that I have yet to fit does. Engine oil temps range from 95-105*C under 'normal' 100km/h highway operating conditions. (insulated thermocouple on the back of the oil filter)

But they should've been.... BTW, all TD5's sold here had g/box oil coolers, or what passes for a cooler on the TD5......

Ditto, I forgot to order the staples when I fitted my clutch nearly two years ago. There's no penalty for not using them.

I'd be dropping the sump and replacing the big ends and the oil pump pressure relief valve spring. There's been a stack of people replacing big ends here over the last few years, anywhere from 150-300,000km they are cactus, with the copper backing layer starting to show through. Some have had the mains worn too. I'm half way through replacing mine, # 1 big end looks fine, # 2 is pretty stuffed, and I have the same oil pressure you are experiencing. If you want to see a dodgy bearing, check out this thread here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatte...dy-300tdis.html