rusty_wingnut

Fitted about a year ago because I was poor. Been very good, no sign of slack and I've used them fairly harshly, lots of heavyu towing and greenlanes/pay & plays. Worth a pop at that money.

they really are wonderful little things. A masterclass in simple engineering basics.

are you sure about your first statement? Mine had a new Britpart rad and runs cool the whole time. Towing, winching the lot. It never goes beyond halfway on the gauge. Between November and March last and this year it was run with the Rad fins covered by cardboard and it still didn't get hot.

They wouldn't cover me for greenlanes, maybe I got the blokes back up, well he certainly got mine up, but with the picture in LRO showing a 110 off road I would have thought they would provide cover for greenlanes....

I had some great laughs trying to insure my 90. Sureterm wouldn't renew because I was high risk (no claims or penalties at all) NFU wouldn't insure the Land Rover as it is modified Footman James wouldn't insure it offroad - to which I said "it's a Land Rover, it's meant to go off road!" Spotty tarquin on the end of the line says "We insure Land Rovers that don't go off road" and puts the phone down. Footman James are the worst insurance company for Land Rovers ever, only slightly worse than Sureterm

I would hazard a guess at the following: if it's happening in fourth then it might not be the layshaft, I would look at the mainshaft bearings and possibly check the transfer box for oil. Take the bottom cover off the transfer box and look forwear in the three gears. Once you've eliminated that then it points towards the layshaft, and either the small bearin on the gearbox bellhousing or the phosphor bronze bush which can fracture around the step on the middle of the layshaft. they are not particularly hard, I managed one as a 16yr old and am still using it in my 109" Series 1. I would take a little look on the OLLR.net forum where there's a handy guide on how to rebuild one of these boxes

Great stuff their chaps. I've got some calculations to do! Cheers

Has it been done before? Has anyone converted an electric winch to hydraulic? Both drivers appear to have different characteristics, I've tried comparing the outputs of Bowmotors to Hydraulic motors and I haven't found one that's a straight swap. It appears the gearbox end of the electric motor becomes almost redundant as the hydraulic driver is alot slower than an electric motor (at least it is if you wish to have one with any torque). Any thoughts?

lift pump/petrol pump?

I have superb little blasters in Hailsham E Sussex, very good company, to save hassle it's got to be worth a few quid....

should you mix a pump design for petrol with diesel? IIRC the rubbers used in petrol pumps don't like diesel and melt in it's presence.

All i did was to unbolt the three bolts that hold the turbo to the manifold, blanked off the turbo inlet and drilled and tapped manifold. I then fired up the engine to blast the swarf out. I checked the manifold was free of swarf, then removed blanking plate and refitted turbo. I fitted the probe with about 10mm of it in the manifold. Since then I've checked all the feed pipes from the airbox, both pipes from the intercooler and flushed the intercooler, and checked the manifold was sealing onto the head. The diaphragm linkage seems free enough, but I guess my next move should be to remove the turbo and strip both it's housings and inspect the linkage is free. If anyone has any other ideas please post them up, this is something of a crisis with a camping trip this weekend

My VNT seems to have been affected by this, the probe must be upsetting the flow and now I can't get the same performance from my turbo

true, your on the money but I did turn the fuelling up when I fitted the turbo to compensate for extra boost, it does seem to smoke a bit too much so I will turn it back. I need to sit down and work out how to program the alarm at 750c. Another thing which is quite "amusing" is when you switch the ignition and wait for the glowplugs you get a reading straight away - the ambient temperature in the manifold! Mine was 20c this morning!

my first proper drive this morning and I appear to have some fairly high EGT's, coming out of a junction i booted the truck in 3rd and she was reading over 1000 degrees F. I think I need to turn the diaphragm back quite a bit!

finally finsihed it tonight, am very impressed, though seeing about 210 (degrees) at idle when warm

I fitted mine with copper ease. probably not reccomended but it took a fair bit of pressing and hasn't gone anywhere in 6 months

gone for Bearmach, cheers for the advice chaps.

UNF

has anbody had any good experiences with these? any suppliers to avoid?

both roughly the same, I'm going to replace the caliper and see what happens.

no play at all, but a slightly sticking caliper.....

cheers chaps I'll give it a look later on. got all the symptoms of swivel bearing failure.. if it has I'll be very impressed it's been through an MOT like it :shock

I have done something similar, cut a brand new Paddocks rear door in half. I made mine with tubes in the bottom of the door so the top has two M12 studs that sit down through a homemade capping similar to Nige's, then through some 3" long tubes that are brased to the internal structure of the door with some road sign angle Seems strong enough I need to tweek the alignment of the top and bottom of the door. Mines not quite as neat as the one shown here though

would the camber issue make it pull to the left?