rusty_wingnut

I have done something similar, cut a brand new Paddocks rear door in half. I made mine with tubes in the bottom of the door so the top has two M12 studs that sit down through a homemade capping similar to Nige's, then through some 3" long tubes that are brased to the internal structure of the door with some road sign angle Seems strong enough I need to tweek the alignment of the top and bottom of the door. Mines not quite as neat as the one shown here though

would the camber issue make it pull to the left?

I can't recall and notcieable play in either front wheel but I will check later. I'm beginning to worry i have a bent axle

Got me stumped this has: my 90 has a habit of scrubbing the outer edge of the front passenger side tyre. The tracking was checked last year, and by myself by the forum guide afterwards, all seemed fine there. It seems to pull to the left mildly, but if the tracking is ok, then surely the radius arm bushes must be worn? again these have been changed and seem ok. any ideas chaps?

i got mine out with mild heating and big old club hammer.

if anyone reading this has a similar problem I have found that the selector units ontop of the gearbox have worked loose. I've refitted mine with good quality instand gasket and threadlock on the bolts.

bought mine from Richards chassis

just been out after some fiddling on the VNT, it ran with 1.5bar over boost and around 1.2 there after. My fuelling setup is somewhere about right here going on a visual smoke test.

yep Gwyn's the man for the job. Don't accept poor immitations!

always do mine just to keep my nice chassis, well looking nice. and it means there's no carp floating about when you work on it

Credit where it's due, I rang Gwyn last monday for some shock absorbers to match the rears he sold me a while back. I explained I was travelling to Welshpool on business so reckoned on saving a few quid on postage, if I could collect. Gwyn sorted the shocks out ASAP and then had them delivered to my hotel. I am chuffed and wanted to publically thank Gwyn for his efforts. Pictures of the new "Gwyn Lewis +2" Shock" to follow

good: 300tdi Rad fitted first go and even has brass bleed plug. 110 HD rear springs retrim kits were superb series diesel front springs, over 3 years old and still as good as new. used off road at least twice a week for two of those years. did daily commute including some big person I'm not that keen on speed humps. bad: er?

boost: 1.2 bar @ inlet manifold on overboost (brief around 1 sec max) 1 bar at max boost after 0.5bar cruising, rarely below unless the throttle is only slightly off tickover. 300tdi with VNT & 45 degree turn on boost diaphragm. EGT unknown but assumed similar to standard 300tdi as no extra boost is being used for long periods. leaves a standard 300 for dead, Td5s are also slower (i'm yet to come across a tuned one though). The extra torque makes it alot easier to drive, it will pull higher gears from lower revs. I know of a 300tdi with max achieveable fuelling on the diaphragm about 2 turns on the other fuelling screws and 18psi @ wastegate, it smokes like a traction engine but goes like hell!

yep that's what i found, top quality for the money. cut the old one off and put the new one on

Real smart advertising them..........

check the gearbox isn't slapping the seatbox/tunnel, check the engine isn't slapping the bulkhead

a good check is to have the enigne running and place a long screwdriver on the pipes and lsiten to the thud noise, you can soon detemrine which injector is faulty, but make sure you use the same position on each pipe. (i go for the bend at the top)

it's defiently EP because: A) it's not red B) it smells and tastes like EP Breather was my only other thought?

the one between the gearbox and transfer case

are we related?

mine was spot on, i had a call to say theneeded to order it from their supplier and then the item arrived a day early

noice!

i bet i paid less for mine than a LS lump....

I have a similar problem developing with my transfer, I changed the front output seal thinking that was knackered and fitted a new flange at the same time (both genuine parts). the nose the transfer has now dried up, but i still have a large amount of oil leaking from somewhere on the box. could the seal have failed between gearbox and transfer? is it the bolt problem listed above? (I haven't touched it!) At a bit of a loss as to what the problem is. The transfer also appears to be oily around the top but it's not excessive help!