rusty_wingnut

new motor is £70 from mail order 4x4. I put mine on with hylomar to seal up the joint and it seems ok.

or do a search, i made some based on a narrow front radius arm bush and these have been very succesful, they have been restraining a 4.2 V8 for over a year now.

Go on my son!

is the top cover matched to the gearbox? the cover has to be machined to suit the box, if not they won't seal. Mine don't leak....

I don't get it either I had a turbo pressure pipe fall off my 90 once, effectively it ran no boost, and was terrible. One thinks people do it because they can't make the standard series engine run right

Good luck to Paul! He needs to get that TGV in, he'd go even faster!!!

what about a lock nut if it's a stud?

they will want to know function of each bolt on part.

don't waste your time, a decent gasket properly fitted is fine.

i know someone with this conversion in a series shortie, and it goes well enough. Not a vast improvement over a good series lump but definetly cheaper than ending up with the same power by taking the turbo off a 200tdi.

thanks white90!

I think it's to do with water in the electrics

Inlet manifold will give you real world conditions...

a little heat was needed to free the bearing from the ally housing. In the end I bought a new motor for a cheap price. I could have revived the old one but it had some wear and clearly water/silt had got in and not drained out. The price for new was very good (£70). When I looked carefully at the winch plate that hold the drum and the motor, I noticed two small slots in the ally that would allow water and carp into the motor casing. The gearbox end is fitted with gaskets to seal it up, so I used a fair bit of hylomar on both ends of the motor and sealed these channels up. The motor might need a vent fitting to it, but there is plenty of scope to drill the motor's casing and fit a vent line. Looking at the winch they're not that bad. I think because they're made for the Australian market they don't perceive deep water or something!

motor arrived a day early, very pleased.

I can't seem to find the code for the transfer box front output seal and drive flange Can anyone help?

ordered up a suprisingly cheap winch motor, got a call 10mins later to say it was going to be a day late due to a supply issue. Haven't received the goods yet but so far I have been impressed.

have you re-checked the timing belt?

a poorly turbo is all i can think of, or a blocked intercooler

I have got the motor off but cannot extract the back casing. I presume the other bearing is housed in there and a little heat is required? can anybody confirm?

thanks Luke!

it was spooling outwards and not under load it did feel warm. haven't checked anything else. cheers for the advice

I have justed fitted a cheapo secondhand Tmax 9.5 to my defender. it has been fitted with a brand new albright following the forum wiring diagram. all worked well then as i was spooling the wire out to attempt a recovery the motor slowed and upon retsarting 9thinking my battery was taking ahmmering) the motor wouldn't turn The solenoid clicks, so I'm guessing it's a bad connection or earth somewhere. Does anybody have any thoughts or pointers for where i should start looking

4 core works well with a Tdi because it's a thermally efficient engine. the reason most folk change the rad is for the oil cooler. however I have seen the series cooler retained.