rusty_wingnut

Why so much animosity towards a pair of carbs Very simple thing to set once you have learned enough about them, simple mechanics. You should take Fridge's advice wisely

one for Road Taxed trucks that cover over 20k miles per year and have winches worth less than £500

first port of call surely has to be getting the dizzy 100% right, then carbs and then cam. I'm no V8 expert but I would advise you to tackle one thing at a time and move around the system ensuring each component works right.

talk to Whitbread off road, They reckoned they could build me a bolt on cage, going around the tubular body mounts, bolting through rear cross and bulkhead outriggers.

I think I'm most worried about fitting the Britpart lift pump

On the way back from Peterborough on Sunday my 90 felt rough and a bit lacking. I had done some green lanes but nothing strenuous. I've ordered a new fuel filter and have a Britpart lift pump to fit tonight (can't remember when either were changed) It felt knocky but would still get upto 75mph ok. I've adjusted the tappets as they were a bit slack and have done 20k without adjustment since the engine was fitted. It ran lovely after and had 20mins sat at idle and a bit of a ragging around the field This morning I got in it to go to work and it didn't fire first pop (unusual) so much so that when I let go of the key after the usual 1 sec blip I was shocked it didn't fire

I would recheck the timing belt, looking carefully at the position of the crank and check the tech archive on here for confirmation

1996 300Tdi 90

Exactly my conundrum

the end of the steering arm that goes from the elft hand swivel upto the balljoint on the PAS drop arm. I'm after the ball joint on the end (looks like a TRE) Mine has a tiny bit of slop

I have a mate who works on Land Rovers in Sutton, South London. The work is spot on and he does a good job. He will travel if required. PM for his details.

Anybody know which part of the dash to remove/lever/break to get at it?

Crack propagation in action?

Morning chaps, my defender has a couple of issues for it's upcoming MOT and I wondered if these are fails? 1 - Wipers don't self park (they do sometimes) 2 - Self cancelling indicators only cancel after a whole wheel turn after turning right. Do I need to add these fecking jobs to my list of things to do tonight as well fixing the rear fog and adjusting the handbrake?

Mine didn't have a bumper for about 1.5yrs with no problem

too many flippin Disco's Apart from that all good, party on Saturday was non existant until we cracked the cans and managed to keep the banter going till 3am, much to the upset of a few old grumps. Gutted I didn't get my leafer sorted in time, it would had been grand to have done it in a proper Land Rover, always next year for that

235's dislocation cones and some longer dampers & hoses and you'll be laughing. my truck goes everywhere these so called "extreme 90s" go with their 35s and ridiculous lift kits

FLIPPIN HECK Surrey county council are taking the biscuit, that's every single lane I've driven bar 2 TRO'd Won't be worth living soon the way these lot are going

yeah but your engine will be better than an OK second hand one.... get it done, it's not big money and will be well worth it

The britpart one I've had for 2 years has brass bungs... very good for the money

i'd say that is an ok price, but for that i'd expect; -full service -mint chassis and bulkhead -minimal dents and scratches -mint interior -original spec with no modifications

will be going to buy, look out for my 90 in the car park

3 days to swap chassis and the majority of the rear suspension here, working from 7:30 till 8 most days without stops (easy when you've got an understanding girlfriend like mine, Although she told me if I didn't turn up for a family do 4 days after I started I'd be in the sh$t ) My opinion is it's better to lift the body as one lump and wheel the chassis out from underneath. take a look in my thread in member's motors for body lifting ideas. to do this you need to disconnect, wiring, fuel lines and remove front panel. after that it's the academic swap between chassis, worth replacing the A frame ball joint, and it helps to have a big club hammer for that! I did use a fair bit of copper slip, and kept engine/gearbox and transfer all as one lump (so you need a big crane) I didn't bother re feeding my wiring loom in the chassis, I used conduit from a discovery and cable tied it along the rail Trick is to be thorough and work on one piece at a time, concentrate on moving an axle in one hit, don't start jobs and leave it. That way you don't lose bolts of struggle to remember how something went. Be prepared for a 'mare with the fuel tank piping, new jubilee clips will be required

MPS 4x4 do a good one

not your first brush with the law is it Unsworth? You'll never learn, pay up and stop clogging up forums.