Jump to content

Salisbury diff leak


reb78

Recommended Posts

My rear (Salisbury) diff is leaking. What are the options for seal replacement?

I replaced the old leather seal with a genuine replacement about 3-4years ago, but it's always weeped a little with the new seal (breather is clear). 

I think I've read about rubber replacements but do these need a new pinion input as well? I'm not sure what I've read now!

As far as I can remember the seal land was fine. I've read all the bits about the crush tube/preload etc, so just wondered what others had done seal wise. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used a new style flange kit from shop4autoparts.net. The flange had seen better days and the leather seal leaked after the vehicle had been parked a while on a slope; I guess part of it dried out (and it was old). That worked. The only thing was how tight to tighten it? The torque wrench I had went to 110 lb.ft so I did it to that plus a wee bit with a breaker bar on an epicyclic multiplier(gives you good control). It was all fine, and hasn't leaked since (Snagger kindly reassured me it was difficult to tighten to the point of crushing the crush tube).  There are many seal options as it's also a Dana 60 seal, I think I used AAU3381. If you want to keep your old flange so that you know how far to tighten it etc but it is worn, you could use a speedisleeve 99187 or 99832, but applied upside down, then remove the flange.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1 January 2017 at 9:14 PM, cackshifter said:

I used a new style flange kit from shop4autoparts.net. The flange had seen better days and the leather seal leaked after the vehicle had been parked a while on a slope; I guess part of it dried out (and it was old). That worked. The only thing was how tight to tighten it? The torque wrench I had went to 110 lb.ft so I did it to that plus a wee bit with a breaker bar on an epicyclic multiplier(gives you good control). It was all fine, and hasn't leaked since (Snagger kindly reassured me it was difficult to tighten to the point of crushing the crush tube).  There are many seal options as it's also a Dana 60 seal, I think I used AAU3381. If you want to keep your old flange so that you know how far to tighten it etc but it is worn, you could use a speedisleeve 99187 or 99832, but applied upside down, then remove the flange.

Thanks for this. Ive read Snaggers posts about torquing it up if you dont have a reference point and that seems seems to work for folks. 

Thanks for the speedisleeve references. Whats the difference between them? Are they fairly easy to do? I havent used them before. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 30 December 2016 at 6:19 AM, Snagger said:

Leather are best.  If you already have a leak, I'd suspect either the seat of the seal in the casing (RTV sealant or seal seating compound should be used but many fit the seals dry) or that the pinion flange is pitted/worn.

The seal facing has a card gasket that imused when imreplaced the seal last time. I guess this could be leaking. The seal i used was genuine, but its only done about three years service. Does a lot of constant 5+ hours fast motorway driving have any bearing on the leak perhaps? Im doing a lot more of this type of driving at the moment. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I suspect it is the card gasket - there is nothing to tightly clamp the card, like on normal gasket joints where two faces are bolted tightly together.  I'd bet money that it is the problem.  The driving you are doing shouldn't be a problem - it's cleaner externally, with more constant direction and temperature than town driving.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I imagined once the seal was driven home, this would press tighly against the gasket? I wonder if its worth running a bead of rtv externally around where the seal body sits against the diff casing for now?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's the thing - the seal would have pressed lightly against the gasket while being fitted, rather than pressing hard, but as soon as the fitting force was removed, the material of the seal would relax and the pressure on the gasket would all but disappear.  You need a smear of RTV sealant around the outside edge of the seal if it has anything other than a rubber surface, and many of them have a metal outer casing with just a leather or rubber lip inside.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mines the leather with the metal outer, so the rtv should stick to the seal casing and the diff housing. It will be tight to access but i think i can do it with everything in place after giving it a good degrease first. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is there much play in the flange at all? The input bearing in the axle I had in the 90 at the beginning was on its way out and went through seals pretty quick,  still got the axle was debating on rebuilding when I got time... 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry it's been a a while getting back. The Speedisleeves are standard 99187 and 'gold' 99832 which actually is that colour and supposed to be more hardened to perform better in an abrasive environment, so costs more. I quite like them because they are hardened and have a very fine finish; also they must cause a little more seal lip pressure.,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Just to update this thread. The leak worsened and I hadn't had time to fix it and needed to go away to Cumbria last week. So I ordered the later flange and seal kit (STC4457) from Britcar the week before I went and fitted it one evening:

http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/246023/0/flange_assy_sailsbury_diff_def__gt_wa

Fitted it in an hour or so and its been leak free for nearly 1000 miles so far. Fingers crossed it stays that way! (only thing i would say is i think the seal is the wrong way round in the Britcar picture!)

As a few of you suspected, the old flange was quite badly worn on the seal land hence the leak, but i can always speedisleeve this at my leisure now using cackshifters info above.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy