Bigj66 Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 21 minutes ago, steve b said: I'm pretty sure a lot of stuff is compatible with the 4 cyl IOE such as oil pump rods and pistons , exhaust rockers then all the external stuff on the front and back too so maybe worth stripping the common stuff to sell/pass on ? I may have what you need bigj66 , I'm going to be in my Series 1 storage at the weekend looking for an early 4 cyl dizzy for someone so will check cheers Steve b Thanks Steve, that’s much appreciated. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 Oh yes....... Hand Carry I have made a living a on board courier in the early '80s and have flown with about anything you can't think of, incl. parts for drilling rigs... Those were good days... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 Parts are ready for you to collect Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 4 hours ago, Soren Frimodt said: Parts are ready for you to collect Joe Tak Soren, will be over the week after next 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 Roger! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 More questions if anyone can help... Are the 6 cylinder chassis engine mount brackets the same as the 4 cylinder ones or are they different? And are the 6 cylinder chassis mounts the same height on the chassis as the 4 cylinder ones? If for instance I cut off the 4 cylinder mounts and moved them forward by whatever distance I need to, can I just reweld them in line with the original mounts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 There's some engoine-mount pictures on Lo-Fi's new thread about restoring a 6cyl: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 I'd offer some more pics, but it's currently tucked down the side of the shed I'm afraid. I believe the mounts are the same, just further forward. If you're not in a hurry, I'm planning a great reorganisation in the not too distant future and it should be accessible again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 Cheers, there’s no great hurry, I’m just going through some planning for the chassis. It’s likely I’ll use a new galvanised chassis but will need to ask the supplier to build it with the right engine mounts in the correct place before it gets dipped and expect they will probably ask me to tell them where I want the mounts. Initial thoughts were to bolt the engine and gearbox together and then measure between the centres of the respective engine/gearbox mounts to get a distance. Then using the gearbox chassis mount position as the datum point, measure the same distance forward to determine where each engine mount will need to sit hence the question about height. Hopefully if I do it that way I will account for any manufacturing variances on my vehicle. Unless anyone can suggest an alternative method? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 I would think that the chassis people will have the positions for the mounts with any standard engine.. You could ask them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 Richards don't list anything different for a 6-cyl, I suspect they may be in the same place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 Normally the 6 cylinder LWB gearbox mounts are further back on the chassis but as my SWB gearbox position will remain unchanged, I will need to move the engine mounts forward to compensate for the longer engine. If the design of the mount is the same as the 4 cylinder ones then it’s just a case of providing the chassis supplier with the right distance to move them forward if the height remains unchanged. I’ll opt for a removable gearbox crossmember at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 I’m going to need a carb for my engine as it’s missing but I’ve noticed that there were two types available for the 6 cylinder engines. Mine is a Rover P5 3.0 and would have originally come with the Stromberg CD175 but there’s also an SU AUD 247 carb available for the Landrover 6 cylinder versions. I’ve always understood that the SU carbs were more reliable and tuneable than the Strombergs but this may not be the case so can anyone offer any suggestions as to which one to opt for and why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 7 hours ago, Bigj66 said: I’m going to need a carb for my engine as it’s missing but I’ve noticed that there were two types available for the 6 cylinder engines. Mine is a Rover P5 3.0 and would have originally come with the Stromberg CD175 but there’s also an SU AUD 247 carb available for the Landrover 6 cylinder versions. I’ve always understood that the SU carbs were more reliable and tuneable than the Strombergs but this may not be the case so can anyone offer any suggestions as to which one to opt for and why? I just found out the carb should be a SU H8 for the Rover 3.0 so will look out for one of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 I think I’m losing the will to live with this one. Not only is the SU HD8 carb unique to this engine (aka impossible to find) I’m now told by the guys on the Rover P5 forum that the crank on my engine is only suitable for an auto box and won’t take a flywheel and spigot bush to use with a manual box. I’m going to take the torque converter off the engine tomorrow and see if the flywheel I got off Soren will fit or not. If it doesn’t then I might have to rethink my plans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 Sorry to hear that mate, IIRC the spigot bush is located in the flywheel? Perhaps the difference isn't more than a grinder can handle? Fingers crossed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 Hi Soren I’ve just checked the flywheel you gave me and yes, the spigot bush is in the flywheel. I’m also told that the manual 3.0 Rover P5 flywheel has the 8 bolt pattern so I just need to check where the spigot is on that. At the end of the crank there’s a 19/20 mm diameter hole about 25mm deep which presumably is for the gearbox input shaft? Can anyone tell me the length and diameter of the input shaft that fits into the crank on a S3 box please as I don’t have one to measure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 4 hours ago, Bigj66 said: Hi Soren I’ve just checked the flywheel you gave me and yes, the spigot bush is in the flywheel. I’m also told that the manual 3.0 Rover P5 flywheel has the 8 bolt pattern so I just need to check where the spigot is on that. At the end of the crank there’s a 19/20 mm diameter hole about 25mm deep which presumably is for the gearbox input shaft? Can anyone tell me the length and diameter of the input shaft that fits into the crank on a S3 box please as I don’t have one to measure? Actually, does that mean the gearbox input shaft just fits into the flywheel and not the end of the crank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 On the 2.25's I think that is the case, however looking at the images Fridge posted on page 2, the bush is shown the other side of the flywheel on the 2.6..... read that into what you will. I think at this point, conjecture and hypothesising is just procrastinating, get out there and pull it apart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 10 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: On the 2.25's I think that is the case, however looking at the images Fridge posted on page 2, the bush is shown the other side of the flywheel on the 2.6..... read that into what you will. I think at this point, conjecture and hypothesising is just procrastinating, get out there and pull it apart I have a 2.6 flywheel and that has the bush fitted as per the 2.25s. Problem is the 2.6 has a 6 bolt centre whereas the 3.0 has an 8 like the 2.25s. My motor is still in use so I can’t take it apart yet otherwise I would be able to trial fit my 2.25 flywheel to the 3.0 engine. Failing that it’s a case of sourcing the right 3.0 flywheel which isn’t that easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 Ah, with you now... You're a bit far from me or I'd let you have the scrap S3 box I have here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 I know it’s not a flywheel but having taken off the torque converter from the Rover engine this morning I decided to measure the diameter of the ring gear which is 340mm compared to the 315mm diameter of the 2.6 flywheel I have. Flywheel will need to be the same diameter as the ring gear was in order to engage the starter I assume unless the starter off a 2.6 has a wider dog gear than the 3.0? I’m sure I said something about keeping this conversion simple.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 I have a 2.6 starter on the shelf and can measure if that's helpful, but I doubt you could get a smaller pinion on there. I suspect the ali flywheel housing may be what's different and accommodates the larger flywheel. The 2.25 flywheel does look like it stands a chance of fitting the 3.0 crank, but does it marry up with a housing and starter combo? Interesting with so many bits to juggle! 5 hours ago, Bigj66 said: I’m sure I said something about keeping this conversion simple.... I think I may have said before that you've set yourself quite a task... I'd budget about six months and a couple of grand (the little stuff soon adds up, and as you're finding, many six pot parts are rare) if it was a project I was contemplating. It's hard enough just doing my 2.6 resto As Bowie suggests, buying (or borrowing) up some parts to play with might be the best way to figure out what's what. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 This is the 2.6 flywheel sat on top of the 3.0 ring gear. Not a great photo but you can just see the difference in sizes with the 2.6 flywheel being 25mm smaller in diameter than the 3.0. The 2.6 also has a 6 bolt pattern compared to the 8 bolt of the Rover engine. I have the flywheel housing from the 2.6 (thanks Soren) which is the same size as the 3.0 so that part should be fine. If by luck the 2.25 flywheel did work then that would be great as it would take care of the spigot, clutch and input shaft issues. The 2.25 flywheel needs a diameter of 340mm if anyone is walking past one with a tape measure.... I did actually go outside the other day and pop the bonnet to see what it would take to drop a V8 in as an alternative. The thing is I have a Defender heater and an expensive acoustic kit fitted to the bulkhead which, if I was to widen for the V8, would mean affecting both of these in addition to cutting up the bulkhead itself. I want to use the vehicle as a daily which is why I want the increased power to pull a higher gear range and this will include a fair bit of motorway driving. As great as the V8 sound is, I don’t thing 3 hrs of it travelling across the Pennines from Wales to Hull will do my aging eardrums or sanity any good. I’m hoping the 6 pot might be a compromise between the 4&8 in terms of noise and I’ll also be converting to a truck cab in the process which should help. The 6 pot is a challenge no doubt about that but it’s fairly well supported with parts (at a price), reasonably easy to maintain and if I can get the conversion done neatly at the front panel in particular then I think it will both look and perform well in the Series. I did consider the 2.8 upgrade for the 4 cylinder that I currently have but at best it will kick out 117 bhp for a lot of wedge and I think to pull a set of high ration gears which I plan to fit, it might not be the best option. The 6 pot is 129 bhp as standard so should be able to perform with the higher gears and be a bit kinder to the standard box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 What about a Montego petrol engine, O Series I think it is... Lovely torquey engine, and there's even a turbo version, and they bolt up to the 4 speed transmission. There's a 2l turbo lightweight kicking about that is pretty well documented. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.